Hi folks,
have a 1995 Volvo 850GTL Wagon, recently replaced the pads and rotors on the rear. Had a bad squeel when breaking and found that both NEW rotors were warpped. Got them machined and fixed that issue. Also haven't had a bad vibration in the rear either after that which came ever so often when breaking.
So at times, which happened also before doing the breaks, the ABS and the Tracs light come on simultaneously and stay on until I turn off the engine and restart it. Both lights are off after the restart.
Got OBDMII system and it does not show any codes for the breaks, abs...etc. Do have the check engine light come on ever so often with the P0400 code for the EGR Valve but still haven't taken it off to clean it.
Anyone got any ideas why the darn ABS/Tracs light would come on without a code but go away after restarting the car?
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CAUSE AND SOLUTION:
Thanks and credit goes to SeaMike!!!!
OK, if you have a 93-95 year model 850GLT then you most likely will have a stable ABS Control Module. Discovered during research and discussions with SeaMike that years after 96 unfortunately received new manufacturer ABS Control Modules that ended up being faulty after a while. They can be repaired by soldering loose contacts within.
First use the OBD 1 which is located underneath the hood, on the passenger side, just below the black box with a hose attached to it. There are two plastic covers side by side. Lift up on the one closest to the fender. It will reveal your OBD 1 "A" terminal. To the cap, there should be a test wire attached. Place the test wire in #3, that is the ABS diagnostic port. Push the button. The red light will flash, be prepared to write down the codes that it gives you. After each code, you need to push the button to flash the next code. Once all codes are read, the system will repeat itself. If you have more than 2 codes, then most likely your electrical part of the ignition is faulty. Do the following test below.
If you have your ABS/Tracs lights come on simultaniously do the following test:
While the engine is running, wiggle the key around a bit, up and down. Move it very...VERY...slightly forward from the II postion towards the III (cranking position), but do not crank it. If any lights come on at the instrument cluster, most likely it will be the ABS light that would come on, then you need to replace the electrical portion of the ignition.
The electrical portion of the ignition will be located on the left side, oposite to the key part. Remove the plastic covers around the column by undoing 4 screws on the bottom. Once the screws are removed you will be able to pop the bottom from the top with easy. On the left side of the column, there will be a round, black cover with wires leading from it. Pull the black adapter straight back, towards the driver door. Underneath is the electrical part of the ignition. Remove 2 screws and replace with new one.
Put everything back together in reverse order. You should not have any further issues with your ABS/Tracs.
Remember to reset the ABS diagnostic port after you have replaced the electrical part of the ingition to clear the codes. The reset is done by reading all the codes. All codes must be read. Once the system starts repeating the first code, push and hold the button for 10 sec. and release. Light will light up red. Might have to do this step twice. When the codes are cleared, it should display code 1-1-1, meaning no DTC's are present.
In my case, the ignition switch replacement cured 5 out of 7 ABS codes. Code 141 and 142 were displayed after replacing the electrical portion of the ignition switch. I discovered with the help of "SeaMike", that the most likely culprit would be the sensor which is mounted at the brake booster, just to the left of the brake master cylinder. The sensor is a round cylinder looking thing with a wire plug at the end. I disconnected the plug, pulled at the cylinder lightly, cleaned the plug and contacts and reconnected. It solved the remaining two codes. Plug was dirty inside.
have a 1995 Volvo 850GTL Wagon, recently replaced the pads and rotors on the rear. Had a bad squeel when breaking and found that both NEW rotors were warpped. Got them machined and fixed that issue. Also haven't had a bad vibration in the rear either after that which came ever so often when breaking.
So at times, which happened also before doing the breaks, the ABS and the Tracs light come on simultaneously and stay on until I turn off the engine and restart it. Both lights are off after the restart.
Got OBDMII system and it does not show any codes for the breaks, abs...etc. Do have the check engine light come on ever so often with the P0400 code for the EGR Valve but still haven't taken it off to clean it.
Anyone got any ideas why the darn ABS/Tracs light would come on without a code but go away after restarting the car?
********************************************************************************
*****************************************
CAUSE AND SOLUTION:
Thanks and credit goes to SeaMike!!!!
OK, if you have a 93-95 year model 850GLT then you most likely will have a stable ABS Control Module. Discovered during research and discussions with SeaMike that years after 96 unfortunately received new manufacturer ABS Control Modules that ended up being faulty after a while. They can be repaired by soldering loose contacts within.
First use the OBD 1 which is located underneath the hood, on the passenger side, just below the black box with a hose attached to it. There are two plastic covers side by side. Lift up on the one closest to the fender. It will reveal your OBD 1 "A" terminal. To the cap, there should be a test wire attached. Place the test wire in #3, that is the ABS diagnostic port. Push the button. The red light will flash, be prepared to write down the codes that it gives you. After each code, you need to push the button to flash the next code. Once all codes are read, the system will repeat itself. If you have more than 2 codes, then most likely your electrical part of the ignition is faulty. Do the following test below.
If you have your ABS/Tracs lights come on simultaniously do the following test:
While the engine is running, wiggle the key around a bit, up and down. Move it very...VERY...slightly forward from the II postion towards the III (cranking position), but do not crank it. If any lights come on at the instrument cluster, most likely it will be the ABS light that would come on, then you need to replace the electrical portion of the ignition.
The electrical portion of the ignition will be located on the left side, oposite to the key part. Remove the plastic covers around the column by undoing 4 screws on the bottom. Once the screws are removed you will be able to pop the bottom from the top with easy. On the left side of the column, there will be a round, black cover with wires leading from it. Pull the black adapter straight back, towards the driver door. Underneath is the electrical part of the ignition. Remove 2 screws and replace with new one.
Put everything back together in reverse order. You should not have any further issues with your ABS/Tracs.
Remember to reset the ABS diagnostic port after you have replaced the electrical part of the ingition to clear the codes. The reset is done by reading all the codes. All codes must be read. Once the system starts repeating the first code, push and hold the button for 10 sec. and release. Light will light up red. Might have to do this step twice. When the codes are cleared, it should display code 1-1-1, meaning no DTC's are present.
In my case, the ignition switch replacement cured 5 out of 7 ABS codes. Code 141 and 142 were displayed after replacing the electrical portion of the ignition switch. I discovered with the help of "SeaMike", that the most likely culprit would be the sensor which is mounted at the brake booster, just to the left of the brake master cylinder. The sensor is a round cylinder looking thing with a wire plug at the end. I disconnected the plug, pulled at the cylinder lightly, cleaned the plug and contacts and reconnected. It solved the remaining two codes. Plug was dirty inside.
