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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i just bought a car which has been sitting in storage for 3 years, it has no battery and the hood release is broken. i wanted to know what needs to be done before trying to fire up this beast. i know i have to drain all fluids and replace them, but is there anything else?

cheers
 

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Disconnect the coil and crank the car over before firing it up to prevent damage to the moving parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
my car still won't start. it turns over, sparks, and delivers fuel (i only know this because i removed a spark plug and it was wet). but i still can't get it to start. i'm kind of at a dead end here, because i don't know what else to check. i have fuel, i have spark, now all i need is a BOOM and we're off. any suggestions as to what i should check and how i should go about trouble shooting my problem?

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Are you 100% positive that you have spark?

If you have spark and fuel it should start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i changed the plugs, and i pulled one spark plug cable from the engine, connected it to an old plug i had laying around, and turned the engine. the spark plug was sparking, although it was an orange-ish spark...but i blame that on the old dirty spark plug
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i've also removed the new spark plug, and watched it go...it makes a blue spark, like it should. the previous orange spark was due to the old dirty plug being used. i'm at a loss here, i've read other posts on the forum talking about faulty injectors, ie not delivering a nice mist but rather a dribble. as i said, the only indicator of fuel in the cylinder is the wet spark plug when i remove it.
 

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Im not really sure but check and make sure you are getting injector pulse at the injector plug. Also make sure the fuel pressure regulator isn't bad.Pull the vaccum hose of and see if there is gas in the hose.If so it is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
what is injector pulse, and how do i check it? which hose is the vacum hose? i've managed to locate the fuel pressure regulator, but i'm unclear as to which one is the vacum hose.
 

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Injector pulse comes from the computer to make the injectors open.You can use a 12 bulb and put the wire from each connector in the plug and you should see the light flash.It will be very dim.The Voltage that goes through is like 6 volts.

Remove the vaccum line from the back side of the fuel pressure regulator.There is only one small vaccum line to the regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
sorry Tech, i'm a little unclear about your explanation. you're suggesting that i connect the power leads normally going to the injector plug, to a 12volt lightbulb, correct? -i want to make sure so i don't break anything. i seem to be good at that.

Furthermore, could some sensor be interfeering with the engine's starting? O2 sensor, temp sensor, mass flow sensor, and what ever other fancy sensor there might be. could it be possible that one or more of these are broken, and screwing with the engine?

thanks again
 

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When you pull the plug for the injector and look at the plug there is 2 wires.Take a light buld with 2 wires and plug each wire into the plug for the injector.You will have power with the key on and then the ground side is what pulses to make the light flash.

Yes the mass flow sensor might cause it to not start.You can unplug it and try to start it.The computer will go into safe mode to allow the car to run.That is if the mass flow sensor is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i checked the FPR and its ok. we almost got it started tonight, i had a few spurts before it died again. turns out the timming was way out to lunch...about 45 degrees off. turns out the dist. cap was all loose and dangly. my dad and i reajusted it, it kinda gave us a few coughs of life, then died again. i'm back to square one now bc i don't know where to go from here. how do i check if my spark plug cables are in good condition? what could be the problem now? we put the timming gun to it and its now perfect.
 

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You might need to back up a step first.

The lower crank pulleys are known to spin.So the timing marks might not really be correct.

You need to remove the timing covers and the lower crank pulley and make sure it is all in time.

It is a pain but it migth have really been in time before you touched it and it might be out of time now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
the engine coughed to life only after we adjusted the timming. also, must i remove the cases and pulleys? or can i just brint the # 1 piston to top dead center, and check the tiomming mark that way/ thx again
 

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You will need to remove the lower pulley so you can be 100% sure the crank is lined up.The other one just remove the outer cover.You don't need to remove the timing belt till you make sure it is either ok or out of time.

Just remove the lower outer pulley.It is either a 24mm or 25mm socket.Then slide it off.The remove the outer black timing belt covers.Then the washer behind the pulley you remove will have a slit in it.That is what lines up with the mark on the engine at 11:00.

Hope this helps.

Let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
before i tackle the seemingly daunting task of removing the lower pully and chain cover, i'd like to know where the timming mark is SUPPOSED to be. i have a scale on the engine, with many marks, the number 20 and the number 10...i don't know where i should align the timming mark on the pulley.

Furthermore, this mark at 11:00...i'm not sure what you're refering to:S i think i'll attempt to remove the pulley and case, although it'll be a tight fit-job the washer you refered to, is it a washer with a cam notch in it? i'm not too sure here. thanks again tech.
 

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careful what you do there mate...if you go moving things round too far there could be some damage..make sure that you're sure before you remove the woodruff key from the bottom pulley...good luck
 

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The washer has a cut in it that looks like someone cut a slit in it with a hacksaw.
It really isn't all that bad to get apart and look at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
after much fiddling and cursing at the car, i brought it in to a mechanic. he said i have very little compression in two cylinders, and that either my rings are ceased or the valves aren't working properly due to lifters/pushrods/cams so now i must take off the head and inspect the rings...what a joy that will be. are there any special precautions i should know about before going ahead with this? any secret tricks that will make my job much easier? thanks
 

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Not really pretty straight foward.

Have the head checked for a sticking valve first.
 
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