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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hiya Guys (mostly!),

My BF doesn't even know how to change a tire, so I am on my own with this one. I need to replace the lock cylinder and switch on my 1990 740 Turbo Wagon, and there are no videos on Youtube that I can locate. Aside from disconnecting the neg. battery cable, are there any special precautions/instructions/aids that you can give me? A mechanic friend said, and I quote: "A **** to get out, and a breeze to put in."

What say you experts?

Thanks, Ladywolf
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well, the replacement ignition cylinder and switch arrived today, resembling a small hand-gun. Eight color-coded wires are emerging from the ignition switch, just cut off flush. I haven't torn the dashboard apart yet to check, but I am hoping that it will be readily apparent to which wire each of these should connect? Any comments?

Thanks--Ladywolf
 

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QUOTE (ladywolf @ Sep 5 2015, 04:11 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Well, the replacement ignition cylinder and switch arrived today, resembling a small hand-gun. Eight color-coded wires are emerging from the ignition switch, just cut off flush. I haven't torn the dashboard apart yet to check, but I am hoping that it will be readily apparent to which wire each of these should connect? Any comments?

Thanks--Ladywolf
do not cut any wires you have the wrong part what you need is the electrical part of the ignition switch that part is behind your ignition switch held on by two cross head screws .the plug with the wiring is just pulled off that electrical part of your ignition switch,google this on youtube to see how this part is fitted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, I have an ignition system that is on the outer fringes. Years ago, my mechanic ran into some kind of issue, and offered to hot-wire a starting button to the battery for me for $10 instead of replacing expensive parts. I said, "Go for it!"

So I now start the car by turning the ignition full on and depressing the magic start button. This button, I presume, sends the starting spark to the system.

All I knew for sure is that my ignition lock cylinder and key were worn out, so I duly ordered a new lock cylinder and keys, with a cylinder switch attached. Did I order too much or too little or just what I needed?

Thanks again.
 

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QUOTE (ladywolf @ Sep 6 2015, 05:21 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Well, I have an ignition system that is on the outer fringes. Years ago, my mechanic ran into some kind of issue, and offered to hot-wire a starting button to the battery for me for $10 instead of replacing expensive parts. I said, "Go for it!"

So I now start the car by turning the ignition full on and depressing the magic start button. This button, I presume, sends the starting spark to the system.

All I knew for sure is that my ignition lock cylinder and key were worn out, so I duly ordered a new lock cylinder and keys, with a cylinder switch attached. Did I order too much or too little or just what I needed?

Thanks again.
all he has done is bridged the red wire ,remove the bridged wire fit shrink tube solder the wire then push the shrink tube over the soldered part .that wired plug is pushed on to the electrical part of your ignition switch to remove old switch push in the pin that holds it on ,care needed doing this.as you have a lock on it would be better search on you tube on how to do this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you for your input. I will check this out further today with a mechanic friend who, sadly, lives 1000 miles away from me. There are no videos on youtube that address the ignition assembly replacement for this car--not that I can find.

Any further input? Perhaps I did not even need a new switch. Could I disconnect it from the ignition lock cylinder and just replace that cylinder, attaching it to the old switch? My friend had me order the new switch "just in case."

Thanks again!
 

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QUOTE (ladywolf @ Sep 6 2015, 05:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thank you for your input. I will check this out further today with a mechanic friend who, sadly, lives 1000 miles away from me. There are no videos on youtube that address the ignition assembly replacement for this car--not that I can find.

Any further input? Perhaps I did not even need a new switch. Could I disconnect it from the ignition lock cylinder and just replace that cylinder, attaching it to the old switch? My friend had me order the new switch "just in case."

Thanks again!
you can remove the barrel ,remove the covers from behind your steering wheel now put your key in your ignition you will need a torch to be able to see a pin you must push in and remove the barrel you must do the same to replace it. now next remove the cover in the drivers foot well next you need to lie on your back with a torch to see what you are doing pull off the plug holding the wiring then remove the electrical part of your ignition switch held on by two cross head screws and refit with a new one there is a half moon cut out that must fit into that switch. while the wiring is off fix the cut wire. as i have said.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you for such a detailed and through explanation! I think that I will be able to proceed soon, based on your careful instructions. Sometimes in car mechanics, it does help to be a small woman who can maneuver into tight places, rather than a behemoth of a man!

Ladywolf
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Okay, one more question and that should do it--I hope! The natural blonde in me is coming forth this morning and I am confounded. The man I bought my parts from showed in his ebay picture an ignition lock cylinder with two keys, and a new ignition switch attached to that. The end of the ignition switch in the photo was a circle of large brass pins that obviously slide into the next part...

What I received was all of the above, plus an extra part at the switch end. THAT is the part with the eight colored wires protruding from it. I do not think that I need or want this part--but how the heck do I get it OFF? I have tried pulling it apart with great pressure, unscrewing it...everything I can think of--but nothing has worked so far.

Forgive me my ignorance. I truly appreciate The Volvo Fanatic's Funhouse here!

Margi
 

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QUOTE (ladywolf @ Sep 7 2015, 01:49 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Okay, one more question and that should do it--I hope! The natural blonde in me is coming forth this morning and I am confounded. The man I bought my parts from showed in his ebay picture an ignition lock cylinder with two keys, and a new ignition switch attached to that. The end of the ignition switch in the photo was a circle of large brass pins that obviously slide into the next part...

What I received was all of the above, plus an extra part at the switch end. THAT is the part with the eight colored wires protruding from it. I do not think that I need or want this part--but how the heck do I get it OFF? I have tried pulling it apart with great pressure, unscrewing it...everything I can think of--but nothing has worked so far.

Forgive me my ignorance. I truly appreciate The Volvo Fanatic's Funhouse here!

Margi
can you show a picture of it.and you can ask as many questions as you want there is no limit. we are here to help.sounds like you have removed the cover from the electrical part of the ignition switch which should not be removed.
 

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can you post a photo - I wonder if yours still has the electrical plug attached? unless its the key end, then it might be the central locking antenna.
Grendel
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
From what you are suggesting to me, I would guesstimate that my switch still has the electrical plug attached to it. That is what I would want to disengage from the switch, right--and then plug the switch into the old electrical plug?

I don't have a good camera, but will try to post a photo a bit later.

Thanks for your endless patience!

Margi
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Okay, I got some pictures. The first one is what I thought I was ordering from eBay. The second one is what actually arrived, with the extra back portion and the eight cut colored wires.

I am still trying to figure out how to get that back segment off the ignition-switch pins. Is it just a (hard) pressure connection?

Thanks again!

Margi
 

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QUOTE (ladywolf @ Sep 7 2015, 03:39 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Okay, I got some pictures. The first one is what I thought I was ordering from eBay. The second one is what actually arrived, with the extra back portion and the eight cut colored wires.

I am still trying to figure out how to get that back segment off the ignition-switch pins. Is it just a (hard) pressure connection?

Thanks again!

Margi
pull off the plug holding the wiring ,next that part with the pins remove the two cross head screws then do the same to your own one in the car,then fit that part to your own switch. now look at your part again see if you can see the pin you must push in remember key must be in push in the pin and lift out with the key then do the same to remove your old one.you do that to remove the barrel
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, I had to pry off the extra part with the wires by using a chisel--no wonder I couldn't pull it off using just my hands!

I think our signals are getting crossed here, possibly. It was my intent to actually replace the current ignition switch with the new one that I just bought. Is that what you are describing for me to do? Doesn't sound quite right somehow. Also, please, could you tell me what you mean by " remember key must be in push in the pin and lift out with the key then do the same to remove your old one?" I don't totally understand, but I sure thank you for your help!

Margi
 

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you need the key in the lock then there is a small hole you need to push a pin into to disengage the lock barrel from the rest of the lock, this will allow you to pull the lock barrel out using the key, then you can replace the barrel with the one from your old lock so the cars keys remain the same throughout.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thank you so much for clarifying, but I actually have worn-out keys and a worn-out lock in the car. This is why I ordered a whole new lock cylinder with new keys. Actually, the lock itself may be my only problem, and the new switch may not be needed, but I will install it anyway since I have it.

So I presume that the procedure you described to me in the last couple of postings will not apply to my specific situation? Thanks again, so very much. I feel ready to undertake this project today if the rain stops!

Margi
 

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QUOTE (ladywolf @ Sep 8 2015, 01:34 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thank you so much for clarifying, but I actually have worn-out keys and a worn-out lock in the car. This is why I ordered a whole new lock cylinder with new keys. Actually, the lock itself may be my only problem, and the new switch may not be needed, but I will install it anyway since I have it.

So I presume that the procedure you described to me in the last couple of postings will not apply to my specific situation? Thanks again, so very much. I feel ready to undertake this project today if the rain stops!

Margi
as i have said and grendel 1960 has said just do the things we both have said.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks Daniel--but this is what Grendel last told me to do: this will allow you to pull the lock barrel out using the key, then you can replace the barrel with the one from your old lock so the cars keys remain the same throughout.

I do not wish to replace the barrel from my old lock and use the same keys all round. I want to leave the lock cylinder intact and use the new lock and keys. But this may be much ado about nothing when I actually make the time to take care of this issue/

Thanks for your help, guys! Margi
 

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in that case you could leave the main casing from your existing switch and replace the lock barrel and electrical portion of the switch, this saves having to try and replace the housing that surrounds the lock barrel and switch which is generally mounted with security bolts that can be a pain to remove.
Grendel
 
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