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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was quickly accelerating to overtake a tractor trailer...ie. gunning it.
I immediately felt a kind of airy pop. Then when I turned off and came to a red light it almost seemed like it would die...but didn't. I turned off the A/C, radio, blower. When I started again if I started to accelerate even a little I hear an A/C airy sound...that seems to turn on then goes off. It is skipping or hesitating a bit.

I stopped at a generic indy shop..."I don't work on Turbos"

What do you guys think this could be? Is it serious? Costly? Any ideas?

I may take it to another local..generic shop closeby...but expect to hear the same thing...either they don't work on Volvos or turbos...

Thanks.
 

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Check the big hoses from the intercooler to the throttle body and the turbo_One might have a hole in it.Or it could be weak and collapsing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks tech,
I'll print your response so I don't forget when I bring it to the generic indy shop down the street in the morning. I couldn't see anything from the top of the engine.
 

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QUOTE(Trix @ Aug 5 2005, 04:04 AM)I was quickly accelerating to overtake a tractor trailer...ie. gunning it.
I immediately felt a kind of airy pop. Then when I turned off and came to a red light it almost seemed like it would die...but didn't. I turned off the A/C, radio, blower. When I started again if I started to accelerate even a little I hear an A/C airy sound...that seems to turn on then goes off. It is skipping or hesitating a bit.

I stopped at a generic indy shop..."I don't work on Turbos"

What do you guys think this could be? Is it serious? Costly? Any ideas?

I may take it to another local..generic shop closeby...but expect to hear the same thing...either they don't work on Volvos or turbos...

Thanks.
[snapback]12810[/snapback]​


Hi Trix!

(Nice?) to have you back - pun intended.


How far are you from Tech, anyway? You're in Florida, and he's also in Florida.
 

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QUOTE(Trix @ Aug 5 2005, 04:04 AM)I was quickly accelerating to overtake a tractor trailer...ie. gunning it.
I immediately felt a kind of airy pop. Then when I turned off and came to a red light it almost seemed like it would die...but didn't. I turned off the A/C, radio, blower. When I started again if I started to accelerate even a little I hear an A/C airy sound...that seems to turn on then goes off. It is skipping or hesitating a bit.

I stopped at a generic indy shop..."I don't work on Turbos"

What do you guys think this could be? Is it serious? Costly? Any ideas?

I may take it to another local..generic shop closeby...but expect to hear the same thing...either they don't work on Volvos or turbos...

Thanks.
[snapback]12810[/snapback]​


BTW, check what Tech mentioned... And also, while the hood is opened - check the small hoses as well. I once had one of these hoses came-off due to a 'running-amok' session at a broad highway, and the Lambda Light came out : Checked and the message displayed was "L-Term Idling something, something".

I followed one of the hoses from the front to the back and true enough... FIxed it back myself, asked the tech to delete the Lambda and off i went.


(Of course, I am just guessing, anyway....
)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, that is just what it was. A hose had popped of on the Turbo. It had some oil on it which may have caused the clamp not to hold on under extreme pressure either from another leak, but I am hoping it was from the last leak which had been repaired.

An inexpensive repair, for a change.

Thanks again.
 

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IM glad it was a very simple problem.
And cheap repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi ampangbear,
I live about 1 1/2 or 2 hours from Tech. He lives closer to Disney World...if you ever make the long trip from Malaysia.

Your English is very good. Is English your first language? Are you originally from Malaysia? I guess it is obvious that I know very little about Malaysia.

I grew up in the San Francisco Bay Area of California, and I've been to Europe (England, France, Switzerland, and Italy), but no further.

I check the board regularly but seldom have much to contribute. There are so many similar problems we all have with our Volvos.

My third brake light stopped working and it isn't the bulb...I wonder how common that one is.
 

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Somewhat common check the wiring in the light.Then work backwards.I have seen many times before.
 

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In the future, there may be 'office-trips' to the US - but I am quite certain none to Florida.
Pity though. Would love to take some photos of 'dirty Tech' with grease allover and then POST IT HERE IN THE FORUM!
Oh, i wish...

Yes, Malaysia is where I was born. Can't say for sure where I grew up as my parents sent me to many places growing up.


If you remember, I followed your complaint on your engine with Tech previously... the one that seemed like almost impossible to get it working right due to the lack of trained technicians in your area. (Well, TECH is JUST THERE! Sent it to HIM!
)

Anyway...

See ya!
 

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QUOTE(Trix @ Aug 6 2005, 06:52 PM)......
My third brake light stopped working and it isn't the bulb...I wonder how common that one is.
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I have often found the problem with items like this to be right at the 'hinge point'. Usually when something door mounted (electric mirror, radio speaker, power window switch, etc...), or something in the tailgate/liftgate stops working it is because the flexing of the wires everytime it opens/closes causes them to break eventually. Unfortunately, alot of the times the wires break inside of the plastic insulation and it can't be seen from the outside.

In your case, I would suggest that you buy an inexpensive test light from Radio Shack or your local auto parts store. It is simply a 12V light with a 'alligator' clamp on one end and a pointed pick on the other. Find a suitable length item (piece of scrap wood or something) and place it between your brake pedal and the drivers seat. Then move the seat forward until it depresses and holds down the brake pedal. Now, go to the back and open the liftgate (please remember to check that the other brake lights are on at this point!) and find a good piece of metal to clamp the light onto (nothing painted or at least something that you would see when the paint chips off). I would guess that one of the hinge pins is suitable.

Take off the cover to the brake light and use the test light to 'pierce' the plastic insulation (careful not to pierce your fingers) and see if the testlight lights up. Usually the ground wire is colored black. I don't know what color the 'feed' wire will be. If you don't have voltage right at the bulb, look between the liftgate and the body for where the wires come through (sometimes in a rubber sleeve). Find the same colored wire that goes to the brake light bulb and pierce it on the 'BODY' side (not the liftgate side yet). If you have voltage there, then just keep working your way down the wire (towards the brake light bulb) until you find where it stops working.

Wherever it stops lighting up is where the 'break' or 'open' is in the wire. The plastic insulation needs to be cut at that point and the wire soldered or crimped back together. Wrap up the repair with electrical tape and then just close up all the panels.

Whew..... That process while not too complicated, can CERTAINLY be time consuming. It requires alot of patience to do auto eletrical work. Repair shops will charge for every minute that a guy has to look for the 'open circuit', the repair only takes about ten minutes, but the 'diagnosis' is often costly. If you feel up to it, follow the outline above and let us know how things turn out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Mine is a 854T (sedan), not an 855 (wagon). I assume you mean the liftgate on the wagon. I wouldn't think that the rear window where the 3rd brake light is located would have wires that would have anything to do with the trunk (or boot) lid or hinges.

But still your suggestion to follow the wire and use the tester would be a good thing to try. I will look in the trunk and see if there are visable wires under the where the light is mounted.

Ok, just looked. There are no visible wires under the light. They are hidden behind some metal so, I think, using the tester would be difficult for me. It is logical that there would be a short in a wire someplace (unless there is a fuse for that light).
 

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Pull on the 3rd brake light assembly and remove.There is metal tabs between the upper and lower portion of the light.Then connections get dirty and loose.

Clean the connections and bent open a little.
 

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Ooops
My bad, I assumed it was a Wagon... I am not 'up' on alot of the 'newer' Volvos (I hated it when Chrysler got into bed with Mitsubishi, and I certainly don't think too highly about how the 'newer' Volvos look (or for the Front Wheel Drive for that matter)).

QUOTE(Trix @ Aug 10 2005, 09:21 AM)....It is logical that there would be a short in a wire someplace.....
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The 'Stickler' in me wants to point out that a 'Short' circuit is where a circuit finds a path to Ground sooner then planned (such as a wire that has rubbed through its insulation). An 'Open' circuit is one the is not completed do to a 'break' in the circuit somewhere.

The problem you described is the latter (yes, even a blown bulb is an 'open' in the circiut). If it was a 'short', most certainly a fuse would pop.)

And I seriously doubt that there is a separate fuse for that light.
 

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Deadken,

Just to share - you could easily tell if a car is a wagon or a sedan by the way the owners describe their cars via the model name.

If an 850 is quoted as 855 then it's a wagon.
If 845, then it's a sedan.

The 8 in the 850 represents the model series.
The middle 5 represents the number of cylinders in the engine.
The last digit refer to the number of doors there are.
(Hence, 5 doors = wagon, 4 doors = sedan).

Hope it is clear!



Thus, yours is a 945 then, right?
LPT? FT?
 

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QUOTE(ampangbear @ Aug 14 2005, 08:33 PM)Deadken,

Just to share - you could easily tell if a car is a wagon or a sedan by the way the owners describe their cars via the model name.

If an 850 is quoted as 855 then it's a wagon.
If 845, then it's a sedan.

The 8 in the 850 represents the model series.
The middle 5 represents the number of cylinders in the engine.
The last digit refer to the number of doors there are.
(Hence, 5 doors = wagon, 4 doors = sedan).

Hope it is clear!



Thus, yours is a 945 then, right?
LPT? FT?
[snapback]13549[/snapback]​


Yes but not everyone Calls there car like that.Some just call it a 850 even though it is a wagon.
 
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