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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thinking about changing my oil for the first time. Does anyone know of any tricks or tips to make this go smoothly?
 

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Nothing really besides making sure you have the proper oil filter housing wrench to remove the housing.
 

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Hi Dave.

Mine's a July 2002 petrol T4 UK model and according to my local Volvo dealer most petrol Volvos of the modern era use the same eco engine oil filter paper element. No doubt you can check this on your side of the pond.

Changed oil this weekend & I needed:

Good quality engine flushing additive to remove any varnish/sludge prior to draining out used oil.
Volvo oil filter - part no. 1275810.
Volvo sump plug washer - part no. 977751.
86mm 16-sided oil filter removal & fitting cup-type oil filter wrench such as the one made by www.laserhandtools.com.
Small torque wrench with 3/8" drive.
3/8" drive ratchet.
17mm 3/8" drive socket for sump plug.
High quality fully synthetic oil.
Container to drain used oil into.
protective gloves (used oil is v. nasty/unhealthy & v.v.v. hot!).
Plenty of old rags & kitchen roll.

I tightened the sump plug to 35Nm (25.81Ft-Lb) torque and the plastic housing for the filter to 25Nm (18.44 Ft-Lb) torque. Cheque torque settings for your vehicle.

Worth checking as well that the oil breather pipe is clear.

Good luck, hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Tech- Thanks for the info on my oil change. I have always had a car with a screw off-screw on type oil filter and not one where you replace the inner element. Can the housing of the filter be removed and replaced by hand? Let me know and thanks again. -D-
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Black Beauty for the info on my oil change. I have never used an engine flush before. Does it make a huge difference? I just changed the oil on my girlfriends 1999 Toyota Solara and notice that there was alot of sludge inside the filler cap. Would something this bad need 2 treatments. Let me know and thanks again. -D-
 

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You will need to buy a special tool to remove the filter housing.The filter wrench for the metal screw ons won't even work.
 

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Yup, if you've got a plastic oil filter housing then don't even think about removing it or putting it back on without having the right socket for it. Unlike the metal can type filters, hand-tight is not an option with the plastic one that Volvo use. You must tighten them to the specified torque or else you will leak oil (badly!) if you under-tighten or break the plastic housing if you over-tighten or use an unsuitable tool.

Do ensure you make a mental note of where the original sealing ring is located on the plastic housing, before you remove it & fit the new one that comes with the filter. Remember to lube the new sealing ring with a little clean engine oil, before you slide it onto the plastic housing.

I look at flushing as being a gradual process on an older engine - my brother's BMW 525i had never been flushed & it was 8 years old when he bought it, so new oil looked really black/dirty on the day it was put into the engine! I did 6 monthly oil changes for him & flushed every time & from memory, after 18 months to 2 years I was satisfied that as much of the sludge & varnish as could be removed had indeed been removed.

If you are worried & think that the engine is really badly sludged-up, then you could try using an additive-flusher in the old oil before you drain it & then, leaving the old filter & housing in place, fill the engine with a suitable quantity of flushing oil & run that round at specified revs for the recommended number of minutes (do NOT drive the car with flushing additive or flushing oil in the engine). Keep a close eye on the temperature gauge too. Then drain well, replace filter & fill the engine with a suitable high quality fully-synthetic oil.

Remember to check/clean oil breather pipe if you suspect a badly sludged-up engine. It is always worth spending a few pennies on a new sealing washer for the sump drain plug as well.

Let us all know what you decided to do & how it went.
 

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I'm trying to find the oil filter removal tool - are you sure it is 86mm I found it on a few sites and they all say 88mm. The delivery is also more than the socket on all of the sites I have found is there anywhere that sells them in SW London ?
 

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That's the one, item no. 3119.

Before I went out looking for the tool, I measured the plastic housing itself at roughly 85mm (as you will appreciate, it's a difficult shape to measure in situ!). The tool itself is definitely marked 86/16 i.e. 86mm with 16 sides and it is also marked S40/S80, so it is obviously good for V40s as well because they share the same eco filter plastic housing.

See http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?item=1696&cat=375 if you haven't already.

I've double-checked Laser's website & cross-checked it with the original packaging & item no. 3119 combined with a 3/4" drive ratchet for removal plus a small 3/4" drive torque wrench for re-tightening will do the trick. You'll need a 17mm socket for removing/tightening the sump bolt & a new sump bolt washer is always recommended with every oil change.

Most good independent parts & tool stockists should either have it in stock or be able to get it within a few days - perhaps if you call Laser Tools on 01926 815000 they could confirm stockists in your area? I went into Chastilian Motor Spares of Belvedere in Kent & paid £4.11 including VAT for mine. Failing that, your local halfords might be able to get one in stock within a few days - they sell Laser's products so even if not in immediate stock they can probably order one in.

Good luck - do let us know how it goes.
 

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Well called the number and they told me my local branch - 3 miles away.
Called them said they could get one for the afternoon at a massive price of £2.55 !!!!
Good enough they got one in and I collected and did the oil change.
Apart from getting oil all over the place it went pretty well.
My service light reset tool arrived off ebay (£30 + £5 delivery) and works OK.
Being a 1998 T4 the odometer trick doesn't work.
Thanks BB.
 

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Glad to help. If oil spilled on engine, do clean it up properly to avoid a catastrophic engine bay fire. The engine gets extremely hot, especially the exhaust manifold (& turbo if fitted).


Just saw your post re service indicator light reset trick not working on older models. Shame, £35 is a lot of dough!
 

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Hi
several people have been asking questions about changing their own oil on a V40
I have just had mine done at my local garage and it only cost me £25.00
is it really worth getting dirty and buying special tools for the job?

 

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is it really worth getting dirty and buying special tools for the job?

Hi there. I agree entirely. By the time you spend two days and two nights getting all the tools and toys with all the drama-you would be better off just giving it to the local Volvo agent, watching their TV, drinking their coffee-even if it cost a dollar a ton delivered free anywhere in the world and know that the job is being done properly first time round.

That's it from me

Cheers
 

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QUOTE(Bart @ Nov 4 2005, 04:29 PM)Hi
several people have been asking questions about changing their own oil on a V40
I have just had mine done at my local garage and it only cost me £25.00
is it really worth getting dirty and buying special tools for the job?


[snapback]17725[/snapback]​


100% personal choice Bart (& Auckland) & personally I would be concerned that the engine takes nearly £50 worth of top quality fully synthetic oil to fill, best part of £10 for a good oil filter & new sump plug washer, plus say £4 for a flushing agent, plus labour on top of that, so where do you think the garage will find the economies to allow them to charge £25 including labour & VAT??? I believe garages in UK also get charged an "environmental levy" for recycling old engine oil they remove from cars.....

If I use the tool 20 times, it costs 15p to 20p per oil change & a few pennies for a squirt of Swarfega to wash my hands. I recycle used engine oil for free at the local authority refuse facility & I go there regularly to recycle garden waste etc. so no special journey necessary just for the oil.

Your car, your choice - my car, my choice.

Happy & safe motoring.

BB
 

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£50 for oil? bloody **** where do you live? it only costs £17 for the stuff reccomended by volvo here in the uk
 

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I'm in the UK too Bart - see previous posts on this topic & details on left of posts.

The T4 produces twice the horsepower & more than twice the torque that the 1.6 does & has a high pressure turbo that needs to be looked after too, so I choose to use Mobil 1 with SuperSyn engine oil.

If your oil costs £17 & a filter & new sump plug washer costs up to say £10 & the garage is charged around £2 to £3 to recycle your old oil, how can they charge £25?

As I said, it's all about personal choice, preferences & experience.

Regards.

BB
 

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I am not sure why it was only £25.00 but i am not complaining

they must buy the oil in bulk so can do it for less
my V40 is only the 1.6 so I do not need super duper oil
 
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