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I hope this helps people save the insane dealership replacement cost for a seized odometer. I wrote this up after doing the work, not during, so I may have a couple of small errors in here. Please let me know if you see any and I'll correct them. This is a pretty easy job with some patience. It's even easier with a friend to help with the dashboard. I've put in some tips for stuff I either screwed up myself or thought it would be wise to avoid. I hope the detail helps, but if it's overwhelming or just too long overall, I'm open to suggestions.

Needed Tools:
Torx Wrenches: T8*, T10, T25
* T8 is an small size not included in most Torx sets I saw in stores.

Parts:
I recommend replacing both the 15-tooth and the 12-tooth gears. The 15-tooth gear is the most commonly broken one, but save yourself the trouble of replacing the second one later on. I got mine from http://www.odometergears.com Jeff is a very helpful guy and I highly recommend his site.

First take out the 6 T25 Torx screws holding the dash on (see http://www.seawinds.ws/volvo/instrument_cluster.htm for details). If you decide not to take out the two screws in the central vents, good luck not damaging your dash (and getting the cluster out).

1. Bend up the dashboard, unplug dash speaker (push clip in center of connector to release).

2. Unhook the two latches on top of the instrument cluster enclosure. You don't have to detach them. Unplug the two green connectors on top (squeeze central clip on each to release it).

3. Put some towels between the dash and the cluster to keep it from being scratched. Telescope the steering wheel out towards yourself and push it down. Make it so you can reach through and push the cluster from underneath. Pull the cluster out carefully. It's very easy to cut up your hands so be careful. I would take the towel with you and put it down on the table you're working on.

4. Unplug the green connector on the back of the enclosure and remove the two T10 (I believe) screws holding in the small time display you just unplugged from the back and remove it.
[attachmentid=997]

(5). This step is optional. Before you take the cluster apart, you may want to draw or take a picture of the dials (needles and faces). The reason I say this is twofold: 1. You'll have a picture of your mileage pre-repair. 2. You'll see the default/off position of all the dials in case you accidentally push one out of place removing the dial surface in step 11.

6. Take the 10(?) T10 screws from around the back edge of the enclosure. Don't worry about the plastic black backing, just the white edge.

7. Pull the front (black) plastic surface off of the back (white) part. The back part has the dials and everything except the front plastic face and attached "overhang". This is the point at which you will be breaking the tamper seal on your cluster.
[attachmentid=1002]

8. This is the scary part of the procedure the first time you do it. Once you have the back white part off with all the dials, you'll notice that the front black face is separate. DO NOT try to pull off the needles or push them further down as they will be misaligned then. You actually need to pull the entire dial face out as a single unit. Start by gently prying up one edge of it just a little bit. Repeat at another edge and work your way around. Each dial has three pins sticking out that are pressure fit into their receptacles; if you're reasonably cautious, it's pretty tough to damage the dial face and dials. Set this whole face aside for now.
[attachmentid=998]

9. You'll notice that you can't do much with the odometer portion yet as it seems fixed to the back. Turn the unit over and take out the three little silver T8 screws behind the odometer cluster to release it.
[attachmentid=999]

10. Once you remove the cluster, you'll see the motor on the right side of it. Use a small screwdriver to remove the motor from the odometer wheels. You'll notice two gears (they look almost like one gear with two pieces), the smaller of which is usually the broken one. Note the placement of the small gear (one face of it is longer like a stalk) on the large (carrier) gear. I recommend replacing both gears at the same time to save yourself the trouble of repeating all of this not too far down the road. It's a good idea to take some compressed air (the stuff sold for computers is perfectly fine for this) and blow out junk from the cluster (shake it a bit too) to make sure that little bits of the gears don't get stuck inside the cluster and make it seize up later on (thanks for the tip Jeff from odometergears.com)
[attachmentid=1000]
[attachmentid=1001]

11. To reassemble the odometer cluster, you need to fit the gear carrier onto the motor spindle. What worked best for me was to take the spindle/inside magnet out and placing the gear onto it separately. Before putting it back in, place the magnet/spindle and gears onto the end of the odometer cluster and spin it a bit to make sure it fits/turns freely. Don't get any stupid ideas to try and dial back your mileage. It won't work and you could end up breaking something in there. Now put the other half of the motor back on the end. It will pull up the spindle/magnet and gears, so you have to either do it quickly or be careful about putting it back on once it sucks the spindle back out. Replace the screw holding the motor on the end.

12. Assembly is the reverse of yada yada.

A few tips for putting this all back together:
1. When you put the dial face back on, be VERY careful not to push down on any needles or anything so that you don't mess up the dial alignment. Line up the pins with their receptacles before pushing down obviously, and use even gentle pressure working your way around the surface to keep it all relatively flat. Check the needle off-positions with the picture you took earlier if you did so. Otherwise, eyeball it and go by memory.
2. Don't forget the time/trip computer bar green plug after you reinstall it.
3. You may want to change out some backlight bulbs while you have the cluster out. It's a few bucks and may save you some time down the road. I would say if it's blackened, might be worth doing it.
4. Getting the reassembled cluster enclosure back in is harder than getting it out. Make sure you pull the two green plugs up a bit so you don't lose them pushing the cluster around. I found it was easiest to push them behind the back part of the dash you pulled out so that they stay there. Make sure you get the two retaining shafts into their holes below. Use the space between the steering wheel spokes to move it around and place it.
5. Don't forget the two clips that lock down the enclosure at the top.
6. Plug the two green connectors back in.
7. Before you start bolting things down, drive around for a mile or so to check out that the odo is spinning, the dials are working, and that nothing seizes up, etc.
8. DO NOT forget the speaker connector before you start reassembling.
9. Buy yourself a few of beers/shots/upgrades with the couple of hundred you just saved yourself.
 

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I have not tried it myself, but THANKS! for the writeup.

Don't worry about it being long, small matter!


 
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