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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All!
Our family has decided to get into the Volvo scene. We just bought a 1999 Volvo S70 GLT with 142,000 miles on it. Seems to run pretty good, I have noticed a slight bit of vibration thru the accelerator pedal when I first press down on it, other than that it runs great.

Any suggestions on the first things I need to do with the S70? No record of the last timing belt change, no maintenance records, etc.

I grew up on VW's mostly the aircooled stuff, so I'm pretty much a newbie, but I'm not afraid to tear down and engine (maybe I SHOULD be


Thanks ahead of time!
Joe
 

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First of all welcome.

Second try cleaning the throttle body.

Third The timing belt should have been done at either 70,000 or 100,000 miles depending on the engine number.I don't have the specifics.Try looking at it and see what it looks like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Tech.
I've seen some volvo repair/maintenance manuals on eBay for a 1998 S70. Would that be adequate for my 1999 S70?
 

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Some things are different but for the most part the others are the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks again Tech, I'll pick them up. I'll just look on this board for info regarding the maintenance of the Throttle Body.
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
On the S70 I picked up (147,000mi), I've noticed:

1. A not so smooth idle, could this also be attributed to a dirty throttle body?

2. The car rides pretty rough, is that just the norm for a S70 GLT?

3. After running the A/C for awhile (10 min. or more), I get a weird little "tapping" sound coming from behind the center vent. Like someone gently tapping on a door. I think someone is in my engine compartment!

4. The dealer I bought from put regular unleaded in the vehicle and now the engine light is one briefly when it is started. Could this be attributed to the lower octane of regular? Is premium required?

5. Where can I pick up a working rear trunk gas strut for really cheeep


Thanks!
Joe
 

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1. Yes it could be.

2. They are kind of rough but check the suspension.

3. Is it tapping or like a whistle?

4. If the check engine comes on then goes off not sure.Are you sure it isn't the SERVICE light.

5. Check the net. Sometimes I have found them really cheap at Pep Boys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
#3 The sound is definitely a "tapping" sound, just like tapping your finger against a door softly.

#4 You ARE good! My bad, it's the SERVICE light. So it's probably in need of oil change, etc. and a reset?

#5 Found it cheap ($45 shipped for both) online!

Thanks!!!!!! Now I need to pay this car off next month and go looking for a T5
 

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Welcome to the world of Tappet noises!


BTW, there're a few ways to fix that (if they indeed are TAPPET noises...).
 

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Hi there. The Tappett noise. My S80 has the Tappett noise on starting. Sometimes it is there-other times there is no noise. You mention that there are several ways to handle, remedy, prescription of treatment-therapy-thise noise.

Would you be kind enough to share with me the several options which could stop the noise?

Would you be kind enough to share with me whether or not the noise/Tappett's are actually hurting the engine?

Would appreciate any information.

Cheers
 

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Hi, auckland!
(Why so formal?)


There are a few ways of curing it. If the problem just started, I suggest you best work on it, don't ignore it. There have been a few remedies offered by VOCM (www.vocm.com.my) members already.

1) Remedy by Pak Vol940 (VOCM)
DIY or not, will depend totally on the owners' readiness and willingness. Engine oil flushing . This may be a bit tedious, and requires like 3 to 4 bottles of the 4 litre engine oils (of course, all will be drained out - so are not re-usable). But not 100% fool-proof. I may consider this strictly on the basis of learning, as the costs would be just a couple of hundred shy from option 3. But make sure to have someone who knows how to do it to supervise you, unless of course, you are able to do it yourself.


2) Remedy by Pak Vol940 (VOCM) and verified by Kenari1 (VOCM)
Put gear on L mode. Work the rev (RPM) and drive until the engine spins at around 4000 to 5000 a minute. Let the car move in say about 15-20 minutes. Usually, one session of this 'stress-test' is enough. But if the sound is still there, work it again. If you use the highway everyday, would be easier for you. Read somewhere that some people call this the 'Swedish Tuning'. But I have NO idea if this is so, because this would be the FIRST time that I am hearing it.

3) Remedy by Uncle Cap48 (VOCM) and verified by TurboLim (VOCM) (who also offered to carry them out. Hehehe...)

Just change the lifters (they are not cheap though). So, ...

Either,
- Go to automatic teller machine at your bank. Withdraw RM1,000.00 (or however much it costs there) and pass directly to mechanic. Do not put into pocket, Do not fantasize anymore of the amount. (As much as Monopoly's "Do not pass Go, and Do not Collect $200" phrase would go lah...)


Or,

- Dip into wallet. Take out the Gold Master, Visa, Amex, Diners or what-have-you. Let the mechanic process the card. Sign the small tab.

I would like to add that if you want to consider the last option, you may want to wait till the sound is really loud and totally unbearable before you'd want to consider this. Then come back in the afternoon to collect the car, and drive away.

$$$:crying:$$$

Based on conversations, the problem arises due to the hydraulic lifters becoming sticky as oil sets in, and are not flowed as much as supposed to. Hope it is clear. If I am wrong, please someone correct me.

Just to also share with you - I went to a three-hour journey last weekend, and was really working my engine on it (making it work for the kind of effort I had to put in:) ). But the average speed for the trip wasn't very high - just about 150kmh. And until today, even after a few days of running at average speed of 30-50 kmh, to the office and back, the tappets are nowhere to be heard.


Thee hee hee...


Cheers, Auckland!
 

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Ampangbear-thank you so much for your reply. I will sound out the Volvo agent on Tuesday when I take the car in for servicing. 5,000 k Oil change.

Sorry about sounding so formal-I think I miss all the hysteria, flatulence, premenstral tension and similated womb regression between The Doctor and BMWmechanic.

I have physiotherapy type medical training. The total absence of medical terminology should have warned anybody that The Doctor was not a medical doctor.


Regards

 

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Now, now... Please don't go wishing they come out again...
 

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I think the first place to start would be to have the oil pressure checked and make sure it is not the oil pan o-rings!!!
 

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You guys deserve a dancing herd of elephants for your extended dialogue


Seriously, thanks for all the help and input.

I'm thinking that my tapping noise isn't the same sound as a lifter or two going out. The sound disappears when the fan/blower is off, and only intermittently occurs when it is on (once every few hours). My thoughts are that it may be somekind of electric stutter in the duct dampers (or whatever they are called)?

Back to Item #4 (above)-
The check engine light is now on
and thus my purchase of an IBD II scan tool (see below ??).

Other item-
There's a guy on eBay_ selling programming instructions for a keyless FOB/remote for several kinds of cars, including my 1999 S70 GLT, he states that no tools/equipment needed with his instructions. His feedback looks promising. What do you guys think?

Other Item-
I just bought a Proscan OBD II scan tool off of a guy on eBay. Have you guys run into anyone thats used this interface for their car? It allows you to do a "plethora" of tasks that are too long to list, but one cool one was HP, acceleration, etc.

Thanks again,
Joe
 

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I don't know how that info will work to program the key fog.It requires software to be downloaded into the car for it to work.

I haven't used that scanner yet but once you get it and use it let us know how it is.

Try to isolate the tapping noise when it is there.
 

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Tech,
Thing is that even after checking twice, with 2 different mechs, the conclusion is still the same - oil pressure OK. Pan O-rings were already replaced twice when they addressed the leaking gearbox problem earlier on. (Opened it twice, and changed it twice - now no more leaks).

Kyoshojoe,
I do not know how to operate the OBDII scan tools yet, though. But i do agree that there are a LOT of things that could be done using the scanner tool. So, far, the mech has helped me identify the voltage reading, mileage verification, and not to forget the infamous Lambda Light (
) and a lot more related to regular maintenance and service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I've got another couple of questions for the resident expert(s):
#1- The timing belt on my volvo was changed back at 105,019 miles, it's now at 145,000. I don't know who changed the belt and if the tensioner was replaced. It's the non-hydraulic tensioner so I can't replace it myself (or so I've heard). How do I check to see if the tensioner was replaced?

#2- Air conditioner isn't extremely cool during traffic jams (bumper to bumper, 5mph avg.), but gets very cold when up to normal speeds. Is this normal for R-134 systems? Or am I getting low on R-134?

#3- I've noticed an excess of carbon around the bumper at the tail pipe, any ideas or is this normal with such a short tailpipe extension (stock).
 

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QUOTE(Kyoshojoe @ Aug 1 2005, 12:23 PM)ampangbear,
Here's a link to what I bought:
http://www.myscantool.com

I'll post what I think of it.
Joe
[snapback]12540[/snapback]​


Hey, THANKS on the url link. Have begun downloading - but don't know how long it'll take me to fully understand the system though (I do additional reading on weekends).

and
 
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