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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tech,

Another "lame-s" question:-

While out shopping for groceries last Sunday morning, I stole some time away with my daughter, and sneaked to the Auto section, where I came across one of those 'additives' for the car.

Specifically, i saw a few brands on fuel system cleaner. After going through a few and shortlisting them to 3, I opt for one fuel injector cleaner that specifically stated "Safe for Oxygen sensors and Catalytic Converters". Since have to empty the whole bottle into an empty gastank (obviously so that the fuel mixes better with the additive), I saved the action to the end of the week, in time for the next usual fuel-fill.


My question:-
While I chose the one that specifically stated that it is safe for o2 sensors and cat-s, the other two brands were quite well known internationally as well. Would it be a bad choice with the possibility of damaging my engine, if I chose them? One of them is Bardahl. Tried to look for STP but out of stock. I settled for one from Australia but not very well known, though the promoter recommended it as well.

Further, I noticed that there wasn't much written on the labels, so I couldn't make any comparisons. If pricing IS a factor, the one I got was the most expensive of the three shortlisted ones.

Hmmmm... Any ideas, Tech?


 

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You should be good with the one you chose.Most products made now a days are safe for the O2's and the Cats.Those products work pretty well.

Here in the U.S. we have one called "Techron" I swear by this stuff.It is like $15.00 a bottle but I feel a difference in my Mustang within about 2 MILES.I put the bottle in when I have a 1/4 of a tank and then run to empty.There is a HUGE difference.
 

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Was it specifically written on the "Techron" bottle to fill it into the fuel tank at 1/4 level, or do you know better (that is, for faster result, use 'stronger does' by limiting the amount of gas to dilute in?)

In the one that I got, I wrote to fill into next fuel fill. But didn't warn against otherwise. Hmmm...
Maybe I should just pop it into the tank.
But I am worried if the dosage would be "too strong"...?


OK, then. Think I'll just do it lah, and see what happens. The car does feel a little, little bit 'slobbish' today, anyway.

This is not an advertisement, but just want to show you what's written on the back of the bottle (refer photos).

Thanks, Tech!
 

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With my car I am used to the power band and I know when it is time to put it in.
No it doesn't say that on the bottle that is just what I do.I have been doing it for 5 years now and never had any problems because of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ehem... Dude... *sheepish grin*

What's a POWER-BAND? Is it installable on the 855?

 

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The power band on your car is like at the moment the turbo kicks in.
On my mustang taking of pretty slowly at 2500 RPM it will start spinning the tires.
It is all about the cam that is in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK, i've emptied the whole bottle into the fuel tank a few days ago when it was three-quarter empty.

You were right, there IS a difference! The car feels 'lighter'...

Unfortunately, I was unable to run the gastank to empty, as I need to do some travelling today, can't risk getting stranded in the middle of the highway on no man's land.


But i'll try again, maybe six months down the road.

Thanks, Tech.
 

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I don't remember if I've ever used a fuel injector cleaner in my Volvo.. So, this is something you'd recommend using? How often should I do this? Sometimes I question if my fuel economy is less than other's are getting with the same car and wonder what I can do to improve that.

By the way, I picked up my car last week and within a couple of days started to smell fuel. I brought it to the dealer to see if it was the gas tank...part of a recall for my year.
I was told it wasn't the gas tank but was from the front of the car...the injectors needed new seals...and an injector may be bad. I have no driveability problems. So, I called the guy who did replace the rear and cam seals etc. He said to bring it in Monday. I assume it is related to something they did or didn't do previously which caused the injector seals to leak gas. Could be dangerous...smells dangerous anyway.
 

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I would reccomend using the injection cleaner.Try it around every 30k or sooner if you like.

Open the hood and see if you can see any gas.If you can't see it but smell it you should be fine till mon.
When they put things together they might have nicked the seal and tore it.

Let me know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you're an able DIY-er, someone told me that you should just dismantle the injector and rinse/clean it in the injector cleaner liquid altogether.

But if you're not, like me, it may be a good idea to just fill it in the gas-tank!

 

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If you take them out and dip them in the cleaner they will not be cleaned properly.
You would have to add pressure and power to activate the injectors to clean them properly.
 

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Ampangbear--There are good injector cleaners, and there are injector cleaners. The post recommending Chevron's Techron is a good recommendation. Stay away from cleaners that say they absolutely totally 150% will clean your injectors. They will. It isn't the O2 sensor and the catalytic converter you have to worry about when you dump a can of injector cleaner in your tank--it's the little rubber check valve one side or the other of the fuel pump that you have to worry about. Some people will dump a can of cleaner into a tank that's a quarter full, thinking it will do a super fast job of cleaning. That it will. But with some cars, as in my 240, I did just exactly that, and a month or two later it began to start harder and harder, because the check valve was partially eaten away by the cleaner, letting the injector pressure drop as the fuel leaked back through it into the tank after I parked. You can easily tell when the check valve goes, because the engine will take maybe one more extra revolutions to crank over and start, then two, then three, etc., until you have to hold the key over for five seconds as the fuel pressure builds and the engine slowly starts to life. I thought the internal guts of a check valve in a fuel line was metal, but it's not, and in the 240 at least, some cleaners will eat through it. Nuff said. Dick
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Dick / rtparr,

I have not seen the rubber check valves on the fuel pump of my car, but thank you very much for the hindsight. I do make it a habit to get as much feedback as possible on the postings that are relevant, so thanks again!

 

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Hey guys,I'm a newbie here so pls be gentle
These injector cleaners you guys are talking about,it's best to stick to the recommended dosage by the manufacturers coz like what rtparr said,this stuff is pretty volatile and they are not too rubber of plastic friendly.Putting in a higher dosage may actually cause more harm than good especially in the first stage.I have used them in my previous cars and though i couldn't really tell if there was a significant difference,i think it does a certain amount of good to the fuel system in the long run.I'd rather the slow and gradual improvement than a sudden death.don't u guys think so?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Guna,

Yes, of course. Follow instructions by the label. It should be fine.

 

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I recently hit 175000k and decided to try out an "engine restorer" I tried the Vavoline Max Life brand and I could immediately tell that I regained a few lost horsies and gained better compression. Its like $4 at Wal Mart.
 

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The engine restore that you add to the engine oil is a very good product and I have used it many times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
QUOTE(rtparr @ May 11 2005, 04:33 AM)It isn't the O2 sensor and the catalytic converter you have to worry about when you dump a can of injector cleaner in your tank--it's the little rubber check valve one side or the other of the fuel pump that you have to worry about. ... But with some cars, as in my 240, I did just exactly that, and a month or two later it began to start harder and harder, because the check valve was partially eaten away by the cleaner, letting the injector pressure drop as the fuel leaked back through it into the tank after I parked. You can easily tell when the check valve goes, because the engine will take maybe one more extra revolutions to crank over and start, then two, then three, etc., until you have to hold the key over for five seconds as the fuel pressure builds and the engine slowly starts to life. I thought the internal guts of a check valve in a fuel line was metal, but it's not, and in the 240 at least, some cleaners will eat through it. Nuff said. Dick
[snapback]7673[/snapback]​


This is GOOD advice, Dick.

Thanks!
 
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