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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Whenever I go to put the key into the door to unlock it and then take it out to open the door, the door locks again and I have to go back and put the key into the door again and keep it in their to open it. What the hell did I do to it, this has never happened to any other car I've owned?
 

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The door latch assembly might be going bad.
Try lubbing the latch assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Man that helped out some, but now its back to doing the same thing again.
Is there anything else I can do? I hate that this is happening since I did love the car at first and now I hate the small problems I have now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That was some help now the same **** door won't open from the inside. It opens the lock on it but it won't open the door at all, now I have to roll the window down and open it from the outside before getting out of the car. What is the deal?????
 

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Sounds like when you replaced the lock mechanism, you may not have fully attached the link rod that connects the door latch you pull from inside to the lock mechanism, or you may have accidentally knocked it loose. The rod may have popped out of its guide but more likely it has popped out of its connection at one end or the other.

The easiest end to check is the inner door latch end, so maybe try this first?!!!

Good luck, let us know how you get on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I don't think the handle broke at all. It still can open the lock from the inside but not the door itself. I removed the panel and looked inside ( there is a metal rod that is attached to the handle in the inside and that doesn't seem to have damage on it, now I didn't see where that metal rod went from the handle) Do you think I'll have to get the whole unit replaced or can I just fix that one part since it still opens from the outside?
 

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You have to make sure the rod didn't fall off on the other end by the latch.
 

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If you've removed the door trim & can see that the rod is definitely attached to the inner door latch & that the link rod moves when you pull that latch, then all that's really left to investigate is the link rod connection at the doorlock mechanism end.

Unfortunately that is the trickiest end to get access to & to get a good look at - isn't that always the way?


You'll almost certainly need to very carefully peel back the clear plastic insulation panel from the inside of the rear part of the front door. If you damage the insulation then it is advisable to replace it.

Hopefully then you will be able to see the lock mechanism end of the link rod and whether it is properly located on the lock mechanism to open it when pulled & if not, where it should in fact be located.

Some link rods are adjustable, others are not. If both ends of the link rod are correctly located then have a look at the link rod retaining clip. There may be more than one position/route that the rod can take through the retaining clip. If so then move the rod to another route & see whether this adjusts the rod & makes it activate the lock mechanism more fully.

If the above doesn't fix it, to gain full access you MAY need to remove other components such as the trim panel support bracket (if riveted on you may need to drill out the rivets & rivet it back in place afterwards), the SIPS striker & insert, the window sealing strip & possibly more. Hopefully you can get a good enough look without having to remove all of this.

It's a fiddly job that is best done with as little dismantling as possible but because of restricted space/view you may have to remove quite a bit to get at the lock mechanism from inside the door.

Best of luck, would be interested to know how you get on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Man this **** door is pissing me off.......what you told me was right about its a pain in the arse to get into but I couldn't fix it. Turns out that some how the rod snapped in half, and when putting the panel back on the rod from the handle part broke too. Now it seems I have no choice but to take it in to get this problem fixed. Now I got a couple of new problems to mention. First when starting the car it takes about 10 sec for it crank up, I had the battery replaced thinking it would fix it but no luck there,next I had car connected by computer to see if it would register anything there but nothing, the car has 64k miles on it and the only thing that I haven't done is give it a tune up. Next when replacing the battery my radio stopped working when pushing the buttom it reads "off" i've tried pressing every button on there but nothing works. **** this car sometimes.
 

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Sorry to hear that, I've heard of link rods popping out but rarely snapping! Can only think it happened when the lock mechanism went stiff. If you replace it yourself you'll need lots of patience & maybe an enthusiastic assistant with small hands!

Regarding battery disconnection, you'll need the 4 digit radio code. This should be in the Volvo folder you got with the car, often on a "credit card" type plastic card. If you can't find it, most Volvo dealers will give you the code free of charge, if you call in to see them with your licence & registration.

Your owner's handbook will tell you how to input the code (do it carefully or you will be "locked out" of the radio for at least 2 hours). If you don't have a handbook, get back to me when you have the code, let me know model of radio & I'll explain how to unlock it.

The delay on motor turning on start-up could be a couple of things & others such as Tech are probably better at diagnosing that particular fault. If no codes & no warning lights I'd have the starter & solenoid tested & check the earth contact on the starter motor. Another possibility is the immobiliser - either the chip in the key or the electronic "ring" in the ignition lock itself, but I would expect a warning light if this was the problem. Tech?

Best of British Chapsticky, as always, let us know how you get on please!



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