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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, Tech. One thing I forgot to mention is that the car has clocked about 241,000 kms already (we use metric system here). So, as you can guess, the car's a bit old. In anycase, one of the things I realised since last night was that my speedometer and my tripmeter weren't working.


I called a friend who owns a similar car immediately, and he gave me a tip while on the road. While still driving and the car in motion, crank the ignition just a bit, until all the lights go out. Don't go all the way to crank the ignition - just a little small twitch. THen release the ignition immediately.

VOILA!


All the lights came back as before, together with the Speedo and Trip meters. I asked him what was the problem - he simply said, "Your keys are WORN. Fork out RM40 for a duplicate, and ask them to make the edges just a tad sharper."

... HUH ... ? Erg. Is this a valid factor?


(Though) It must be cause I must have tried it a dozen times, as whenever the car comes to a stop at junctions, the meters go still again, and after carefully performing the acts, the meters go wonders again. One thing to note about the trip meters is that both the digital and the 'analog(?)' trip meters failed to function simultaneously.

But I don't understand how the key could affect the meters. Is there a better alternative to this (aside from forking out RM1,500 for a new original set of ignition and key system)?

Thanks for your time, Tech.

 

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When this happens try to just wiggle the key a little.Sometimes just the electrical part of the ignition goes bad.Does any other lights come on?Does the Ignition feel loose after the car is started up?If the electrical part is bad you can wiggle the key and get lights to come on while it is still running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will try the wiggling of the key again. No, the ignition parts are still quite tight, given its age. As in the eralier email, the lights and meters (including the digital meters) will black-out when I twitch the ignition a bit, but just for a second. Afterwards, it runs normal again. Only thing is that, I can't possibly do the twitching after every stop. Right?
 

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If wiggling the key makes the lights come on while the car is still running then the electrical part of the switch is going bad.They are pretty easy to change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nope... the wiggling does not work. I still need to twitch the crank-key. Hmmm. Is there a probability the onboard computer is bad? One other thing I need to mention is that, while the meters were out, the digital meters were also out. However, other indicators like temperature, distance left till empty tank are okay. Only those indicators that are related to the meters were affected. At one time, for a very split second, while I was turning the 'Info' switch, the word "dISC" appeared on the electronic display. But only for that one particular time. Any other advice, Tech?
 

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It could be something in the cluster bad.In the U.S. we didn't have digital milage on the speedo cluster till 1998.The earlier cars had a problem with the odometer gear going bad.

The disc you see on the other display means the switch is going bad.When signal from the switch is lost disc is displayed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
After reading all the messages again right from the top, I think I forgot to mention that the lights (in cabin and outside) are all OK, actually. Only that the speedo- and the odometers aren't functioning. Both the digital (on the electonic display) and the non-digital levers. As I said earlier, a friend taught me the twitching the crank-key method, and it worked fine. Problem is that the meters go dead again, everytime the car comes to a full-stop.


So, Tech, do you advise I go check the 'cluster' thing? And the odometer gauge?
 

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For some reason it really doesn't make sense that when you wiggle the key they work again.There has to be a short somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK, here it goes, Tech.

Just got it back from the specialist who sold the car to me. I had to change the ABS Modulator as it was faulty. Got a used-version which costed RM1,250/-

On top of that, i installed a two-point reverse sensor which added another RM380/- to the bill (voluntary, as my wife needs it).

And remember the fuel-smell thing? They agreed finally that there must be a leak somewhere and agreed to have it checked. They replaced the hose (2 hoses) and charged me RM9/- each. Labor for this was RM32.50 to the bill.

Tech, could you verify if the ABS Modulator is at fault in this case?

And now, the Turbo display lever doesn't want to go down even when I am not pressing the accelerator. The lever simply refuses to move down to the 9 oclock position. But i noticed that when I pressed the accelerator, the lever was okay to reach the 3 oclock direction. Hmmm...

Do you think I got ... suckered...?
I feel like I got ...suckered...

What about the Turbo display thing? Is it a serious matter? Or does it just need simple cleaning?

Thanks for your time and advice, Tech.
 

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Your car is a little diffrent than I am used to because it is not a U.S model.But the ABS module could have been the problem.

The fuel line thing sounds about rite I have seen this many times before.

The guage is controlled by vaccum You might have developed a vaccum leak.But if it is still moving while in boost there might not be any problems.Those guages are not always 100% correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Dude,

I still feel like I got ... suckered ...

My frens always tell me I got the words suckered written on my forehead that's visible to other predators but invisible to me. For sometime, I got to believe them and developed slight paranoia.
 

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Sorry you feel that way.I have been told the same thing.If ever in doubt come here to us first before giving them the ok to repair or picking up the car.
 
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