I cannot give you a straight answer to your problem but can only suggest you refer to the details about the steering pump in the following attachment. It seems certain conditions need to be met before the motor in the pump will start and one of these is that the engine must be running to supply a signal via the CAN-bus relaying the signal via the integrated circuitry in the motor to the power transistors & current sensors in the motor. You can try applying 12 volt to connect "+30 & ground" as this is the 12v connection for the pump it seems but I feel that little will happen.

View attachment S40MY2005_SuspensionSteering.pdf

 

This is excellent info. It raises another question for me. Can you please tell me what these abreviations stand for.
+30
+15
CAN
EPS
CEM
BCM
ECM
SWM
DIM
Also, my understanding from reading "Start conditions for the pump" the pump starts if the following are met:
15+ is high (meaning te ignition is on
30+ supply is between 10.5 and 16.5.
The car engine has started.
Is it safe to assume that each individual lead at the smaller plug (the one with three prongs) will recieve one of the above signals? (15+/30+ engine running)
If so can the pump be "fooled" by just supplying the proper voltage to each lead?
Thank you again for ANY and ALL help!
Marco.

 

Explanations for most of these acronyms should be somewhere on the web if you care to Google them. Some may be more unique to the Volvo automotive computer symptoms and would be anyone's guess. +30 & +15 presumably relate to positive 12v connection via a 30amp & 15amp fused supply respectively.

 

QUOTE (Platypup @ May 10 2010, 08:54 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Explanations for most of these acronyms should be somewhere on the web if you care to Google them. Some may be more unique to the Volvo automotive computer symptoms and would be anyone's guess. +30 & +15 presumably relate to positive 12v connection via a 30amp & 15amp fused supply respectively.
Thank you Platypup.
I have gathered more info via extensive searching on the net.
When I get this thing figured out I will post my findings here so that I might help others.

 

QUOTE (drywaller @ May 15 2010, 12:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thank you Platypup.
I have gathered more info via extensive searching on the net.
When I get this thing figured out I will post my findings here so that I might help others.

Did you get this to work? I am considering using one of these pumps in an old Audi project, but I'm not sure how to "fake out" the system based upon the section of the PDF Identifying EPS. If there is no ECM providing the configuration ID on the CAN bus, it won't work?

 

QUOTE (BostonV50 @ Jul 1 2010, 10:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Did you get this to work? I am considering using one of these pumps in an old Audi project, but I'm not sure how to "fake out" the system based upon the section of the PDF Identifying EPS. If there is no ECM providing the configuration ID on the CAN bus, it won't work?

I did get it to work.
The grey wire with the blue stripe is the one that will trigger the ECM inside the pump. One catch, after hooking up the pos/neg leads you will then hook up the signal wire. My pump takes about 2.5 seconds to start up. I think that maybe this is due to an internal diagnostics test?
One other thing I noticed is that you will want to wire the pump so that the pos/neg leads are constant. In other words always hot. The reason being the pump electronics use three large capacitors and if you provode power in an on and off fashion the capacitors will arc internally.
I know this is how motor/speed controllers work and this pump essentially uses a small motor controller to run the pump.
I tested my theory and applied power to the pos/neg leads after the signal wire was hooked up and I could hear a slight discharge or arc inside the control housing.
Hope this makes sense. If you have any other questions Ill try and help in any way I can.
ps. this pump is very quiet. I expected it to be much louder.
Marco.

 

Hi Drywaller, Can you identify the pins on the pump. + - signal input that you used. I have a pump but no wiring with connectors to chase colours.
Norm

QUOTE (drywaller @ Jul 3 2010, 11:16 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I did get it to work.
The grey wire with the blue stripe is the one that will trigger the ECM inside the pump. One catch, after hooking up the pos/neg leads you will then hook up the signal wire. My pump takes about 2.5 seconds to start up. I think that maybe this is due to an internal diagnostics test?
One other thing I noticed is that you will want to wire the pump so that the pos/neg leads are constant. In other words always hot. The reason being the pump electronics use three large capacitors and if you provode power in an on and off fashion the capacitors will arc internally.
I know this is how motor/speed controllers work and this pump essentially uses a small motor controller to run the pump.
I tested my theory and applied power to the pos/neg leads after the signal wire was hooked up and I could hear a slight discharge or arc inside the control housing.
Hope this makes sense. If you have any other questions Ill try and help in any way I can.
ps. this pump is very quiet. I expected it to be much louder.
Marco.

 

Hi - I have the same pump but am unsure for the main 12V pins which one is + and which one is -. Can you tell me?
-cy4runner

 

Hello, I have this pump installed in a 1954 Ford sedan and plan to use it to drive the yet to be installed steering box.
I can make the pump come on and off but I would like to be able to control the amount of pressure it delivers. To do
this I need to know which wire addresses the vehicle speed and what voltage is transmitted to the pump. I believe that a
rheostat switch, similar to an old heater switch, would serve this purpose. Any information you can provide would be
appreciated.

 

QUOTE (drywaller @ Jul 3 2010, 11:16 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I did get it to work.
The grey wire with the blue stripe is the one that will trigger the ECM inside the pump. One catch, after hooking up the pos/neg leads you will then hook up the signal wire. My pump takes about 2.5 seconds to start up. I think that maybe this is due to an internal diagnostics test?
One other thing I noticed is that you will want to wire the pump so that the pos/neg leads are constant. In other words always hot. The reason being the pump electronics use three large capacitors and if you provode power in an on and off fashion the capacitors will arc internally.
I know this is how motor/speed controllers work and this pump essentially uses a small motor controller to run the pump.
I tested my theory and applied power to the pos/neg leads after the signal wire was hooked up and I could hear a slight discharge or arc inside the control housing.
Hope this makes sense. If you have any other questions Ill try and help in any way I can.
ps. this pump is very quiet. I expected it to be much louder.
Marco.
Hi drywaller. Can you elaborate?
Grey wire with blue stripe: connect to 12V+ to trigger the ECM?
Signal wire: is this the grey wire with blue stripe? Or is it another color wire?
Are only 3 wires required to turn on pump: +, - and grey with blue stripe?
Thanks for clarifying.