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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just purchased an 1986 240 about a week ago. It was running great, but I noticed the temperature going up when I was sitting in line waiting to pick up my daughter at school. After doing that yesterday, the temperature started going back down when I started driving again. Then all of a sudden all the lights came on, brake failure, the light out warning bulb, battery and oil pressure. I thought the car had died on me, but it had not. I went ahead and drove it home but that's all I've done so far. Any ideas on what this problem could be? Thank you for any help you can give me.
 

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Try starting the car and wiggling the ignition switch and see if the same thing happens again.
When you parked it did it sound like the coolant was boiling?
The guages and compasation board are known to fail on the 240's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will try that when I get home this evening. What happened to it if it really was overheating (which I think it was)? It still had water in it when I got home, though.
 

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If the guage showed pegged then you would have heard it boiling.
The guage itself might not be reading properly.
I think you may have 2 problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What I've done to try to resolve the problem so far is flush the radiator and put new hoses on and put on a new thermostat. The fan is running to my knowledge unless it is stopping for some reason when it is overheated. Someone told me that all the lights come on on the dash when a belt breaks and the water pump isn't working. I even tried to undo the negative battery cable and left it undone for a while to see if the lights lit up on the dash would go away. I am trying to guess my way through fixing this car and it isn't working!! P.S. I tried wiggling the ignition switch and it did not work! I think the temperature gauge is working fine, to my knowledge. It was an after-market gauge that they installed though. The one on the car itself, the gauge and gas gauge do not work. Any ideas on fixing that as well?
 

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You don't have anyleaks anywhere do you?
The water pump may not be working properly.
Do you happen to know if the guage is electrical or mechanical?
Pull the oil dipstick and make sure it doesn't look like choclate milk.
If it does the headgasket is blown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The oil looks fine as far as I can tell. I don't have any leaks that I can tell. How can I test the water pump? I heard they rarely go out. Is that true or not? I hope I didn't blow a headgasket. Is that like ruining your whole engine? As you can tell, I am a woman that knows nothing about cars except how to drive them. But last night I learned to put all the parts back on the Volvo so I'm doing pretty good.
 

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Is the guage mounted externally? or in the dash?
If you can seen the back of the quage see it it is all wires or if it has a brass tube coming out of it.

Also one other thing are the belts adjusted properly?
Just want to make sure the water pump is spinning properly and the belt isn't slipping on the water pump pulley.
 

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QUOTE(volvosrus @ Apr 14 2005, 03:59 AM)
I just purchased an 1986 240 about a week ago. It was running great, but I noticed the temperature going up when I was sitting in line waiting to pick up my daughter at school. After doing that yesterday, the temperature started going back down when I started driving again. Then all of a sudden all the lights came on, brake failure, the light out warning bulb, battery and oil pressure. I thought the car had died on me, but it had not. I went ahead and drove it home but that's all I've done so far. Any ideas on what this problem could be? Thank you for any help you can give me.
[snapback]6680[/snapback]​


temperature will rise in all cars at idle for more than say 3 minutes [in hot climes especially] and that is Ok as long as not too high

it is worse if you have AC going of course


the fact it came down [I assume you were watching the gauge and not the lights] is good sign

seems other problem may be totally separate and needs an auto elec to check it out
 

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Sorry for the late post I have recently had the same problem. I had the AC re gassed a couple of weeks ago and they also tightened the drive belts.

Since then when I put the air on I get all the warning lights coming on and they go off when I turn the air off. Trouble is the lights then come back on even with the air off and I also momentarily lose the power steering. The drive belts seem to be working really slow. The friend from the AC shop said that I may also have a problem with the balance behind the main pulley?? It seems that the drive belts themselves really labour with the extra load of the AC working along with the power steering etc.
 

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I had a simillar problem with temperature rising recently. It happened when Idling for long periods of time especially on hot days (ambient temperatures greater than 34 degrees Celcius). First I did a coolant flush and flushed out the cooling system in both the radiator and the parts inside the engine (the workshop used a special machine for this).

After the radiator flush I noticed that the temperature would still rise but the engine would still run well at those elevated temperatures (no knocking or loss of power of any kind - just a couple of milimeters below the red zone). Temperature would go back down as soon as the car started moving. I suppose this had a lot to do with the coolant I used (pure coolant with no antifreeze - Royal Purple brand I believe).

Anyway, after this, I purchased a new cap for my coolant reserve tank and it solved the problem. The old cap was not working properly and was releasing pressure too early causing the temperature to rise close to the red zone. Since changing, I have rarely seen the temperature gauge needle rise more than the horizontal position even on really hot days. I suggest that you also check yours and see if the valve on the cap is loose or something. If so, replace it. I bought mine for just RM 28 (USD$7 or so).

Hope you found this suggestion helpful.
 

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when car is not moving on a hot day ie stuck in trafic you are really testing the whole system - not sure if later models use electric rad fans but my model uses a viscous coupling to assist with the cooling when at idle and back off once on the road again

If the coupling is old it will not give same performance, but hard to actually detect untill it gets to noisy stage
 

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If the car was actually over heating and it isn't an electrical fault it might be caused by a viscous fan coupling fault or a jammed thermostat. If the fan coupling fails the fan won't turn and the car overheats when sat in traffic - This happened on my 2.3 244 GLT, I simply replaced the coupling and the problem was solved.
 

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Hi ! I am also a lady Volvo driver and have been working on them for over 20 years, they really aren't hard to work on once you get to know your way around. My biggest problem is that I lack the strength to do some things and don't always have the right tools. so a good mechanic can be critical. My 82 was doing pretty much what you describe a couple of years ago. I replaced the thermostat and some hoses, but it didn't help, everything else seemed fine and I was going nuts. Driving with the heater on (to keep the engine cooler) is no fun. The problem turned out to be a combination of the radiator cap (located on the overfil tank) and the radiator itself, which was only marginally functional. New Volvo radiators can run over $400, I called a radiator shop and got a generic which has worked just fine for two years now although it did need a little jockeying aroung to get it seated properly. Good Luck, Volvos are worth it!
 
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