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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Stalls while driving, tach goes to zero, it has a new fuel pump relay, I thought I had it beat. It starts after a few minutes, sometimes 20. It seems it is an electric issue and it is stalling because of no power to the fuel pump(s) I think. New relay is warm, main fuel pump is kind of loud, not really sure of status of pre pump. What is causing the tach to go to zero
 

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QUOTE (steelgut @ Aug 15 2011, 08:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Stalls while driving, tach goes to zero, it has a new fuel pump relay, I thought I had it beat. It starts after a few minutes, sometimes 20. It seems it is an electric issue and it is stalling because of no power to the fuel pump(s) I think. New relay is warm, main fuel pump is kind of loud, not really sure of status of pre pump. What is causing the tach to go to zero
check your battery,and your alternator,you may need bushes, fitted to the rear of the alternator ,held on by two bolts.and read your codes ,do you know how to work your diagnostic plug,check both sets of codes ,for both fuel and ignition ,you should have a reading of 111 for both if nothing found,so check the codes.
 

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QUOTE (danielm85948 @ Aug 16 2011, 02:19 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>check your battery,and your alternator,you may need bushes, fitted to the rear of the alternator ,held on by two bolts.and read your codes ,do you know how to work your diagnostic plug,check both sets of codes ,for both fuel and ignition ,you should have a reading of 111 for both if nothing found,so check the codes.

New battery, please tell me about codes, thanks, I will look around the site
 

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0QUOTE (steelgut @ Aug 16 2011, 09:34 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>111 and 111
that shows both fuel system is ok,and your ignition system is ok,so next check it is not the electrical part of your ignition switch,move your key left, and right, in your ignition very small movements needed,check your dash lights light up,when doing so,the other can be your fuel injector relay,in the engine bay, on the (A ) frame next to your front shock it should be on the passenger side,and the other ,can be the ignition module near the rear of the headlight on the passenger side in the engine bay.and google ,volvo relays ,for your car and read the details found.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So here is what it does. If I let it idle in the driveway, after like 5-7 minutes, it will stall. If I turn the key, it won't start, but if I keep turning the ignition on and off so the fuel pump goes for a couple seconds each time, it will start. If I let it sit like 20 minutes, it starts like nothing is wrong. While driving, it usually stalla after slowing down or taking my foot off the gas.
 

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QUOTE (steelgut @ Aug 16 2011, 02:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>So here is what it does. If I let it idle in the driveway, after like 5-7 minutes, it will stall. If I turn the key, it won't start, but if I keep turning the ignition on and off so the fuel pump goes for a couple seconds each time, it will start. If I let it sit like 20 minutes, it starts like nothing is wrong. While driving, it usually stalla after slowing down or taking my foot off the gas.
that can mean clean your idle control valve the piston will be sticking due to dirt clean with carb cleaner.
 

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QUOTE (danielm85948 @ Aug 16 2011, 09:23 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>that can mean clean your idle control valve the piston will be sticking due to dirt clean with carb cleaner.
I'll give it a shot and I am sure it is dirty.

A few days ago, when I thought I had the problem beat, I was driving around with the cover off the fuel pump relay, it would start to stall, I would move it around and it would stay running. I bought a new fuel pump relay, but it continued.

From another post,

http://www.volvo-forums.com/t29538-740-tur...-feels-like.htm

Found no voltage on blu/yel wire at radio suppression relay when the car quit. Installed a switch (and pulled it inside the car) between the blu/yel wire and the red (12v) wire at the relay. Car now runs when I close switch! (don't leave this switch closed or the battery will run down when the car is off) Finally order a wiring diagram online to find out where blu/yel gets voltage. Guess what...the fuel pump relay (that I checked 3 years ago!) has TWO relays in it. One controls the main fuel pump and the other powers the blu/yel wire that ultimately powers the coil by energizing the radio suppression relay. But the rest of the story is that the blu/yel wire also goes to the mass airflow meter and the fuel injection ECU (inside car behind right side kick panel below dash and in front of door) THAT's what makes the car NOT run even when you put 12v directly on the coil.

So I am going to put a test light on that wire, my car will stall within 5 minutes on idle. I need to isolate this problem
 
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