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> 94 Volvo 960 Oil Pan Leak?
Moodyblue426
post Feb 22 2010, 06:31 PM
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Hey all,

I have my Volvo parked for the winter and a few months ago had the head gasket repalced because it leaked oil and coolant but for some reason it is still leaking oil! I have it in the garage and have cardboard underneath it and the oil leaks stretches about a foot long. front puddles to smaller droplets. Anyone have any idea where it could be coming from? I am thinking its the oil pan because the head gasket was just replaced so I am at a loss for where else it could be coming from. I am waiting for the weather to be nicer and not so snowy to take it out of the garage. So any help would be great.
Thanks
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SykO
post Feb 22 2010, 10:13 PM
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could be your rear main seal on the block. something that will help you determine what position the oil is leaking from is with a fresh piece of card under the car, draw with a black marker the position of the oil drain plug and then mark a line for the rear of the engine where it joins to the gearbox and at the front by the steering rack, this will allow you and us to locate our deterministic skills for you.

M
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vjck_uk
post Feb 28 2010, 07:33 AM
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take a look under the inlet manifold you will see the big rubber engine mounting if thats wet with oil then its the seals on the engine oil trap,have you cleaned the flame trap out ?
ive put a picture on for you the bit that gets blocked is part 12 just take it out and drop it in the bin or if you want get a small drill/probe and clean all the tiny holes out,mine went straight in the bin if that is clogged it will chuck oil out every where,mine when i got it back from london was plastered in oil even all over the tailgate window.you wont get any problems dumping it
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Moodyblue426
post Mar 19 2010, 07:36 PM
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Thanks vjck_uk,

It turns out the oil leak was from the flame trap. I am not very technical with engines and have no way to access or fix it, so I am having my mechanic repair it but it is definitely the flame trap. The clogged trap forced oil to leak out the top cap as well. But its everywhere. Soon enough it will be fixed though. But at least I was able to rule out the head gasket (since it was repaired a few months ago) and the oil pan.
Thanks again for the diagram and your suggestions.
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SykO
post Mar 22 2010, 01:07 AM
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or you just remove it completely and replace with a piece of silicone hose :0 problem solved, never to be had again. doesnt make any difference to emissions or legality of the car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

M

ps if we are still leaking oil after a good steam clean, then its blockage as raised pressure in the crank and possibly pushed out the rear main seal a little, like what happened with mine.
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Moodyblue426
post Mar 23 2010, 09:40 AM
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It is still hard to tell if if is only leaking from he flame trap at this point. There is so much oil there that it is on everything. When the flame trap is fix, they will pressure wash the under carriage and engine to see of it is leaking from the rear main seal and oil pan, but form what they saw, it didn't appear to be.
I will keep you posted, however since it goes in on Thursday. I want this fixed as I want to put synthetic in but no point right now since it leaks. Thanks for the suggestion about the silicone hose. Perhaps in a few years if it gives me trouble again I will use that instead (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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SykO
post Mar 23 2010, 10:05 AM
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How many miles has the car done? Personally i wouldnt put synthetic oil in a car this old, even though it is cheaper.

I would go for mineral oil and somethign reasonably thick around 15w40, which will look after your engine better as the older engines have larger tolerances than all these new motors.

I run castrol high mileage in mine which is around the 10w40 15w40 mark and that is perfect for the car.

M
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Moodyblue426
post Mar 23 2010, 01:48 PM
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Really?
I always hear that synthetic is the best for the engine because it is not as thick and is less wear and tear on the engine especially cold starting in the winter.
Most people I know put synthetic in imports like Mercedes, BMW, Volvo etc...
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SykO
post Mar 23 2010, 03:06 PM
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the older engines prefer mineral oil as the synthetic can sometimes eat away at the seals, but part synthetic is ok, but if your planning oil changes regularly you could use fully synthetic - especially if its a turbo model
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Bestjohnny
post Feb 16 2021, 07:34 AM
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Maybe because you are using mineral oil because new models of Volvo cars are not as strong as the old ones and that is why it is advisable to use synthetic oil rather than mineral oil. So if you're using mineral oil, I'll advise you change it to synthetic oil.
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danielm85948
post Feb 16 2021, 11:35 PM
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QUOTE (Bestjohnny @ Feb 16 2021, 07:34 AM)
Maybe because you are using mineral oil because new models of Volvo cars are not as strong as the old ones and that is why it is advisable to use synthetic oil rather than mineral oil. So if you're using mineral oil, I'll advise you change it to synthetic oil.

check the oil cooler may need tighten if you have changed the oil filter.
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feedtalefive
post Mar 6 2021, 08:33 AM
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I will keep you posted, however since it goes in on Thursday. I want this fixed as I want to put synthetic in but no point right now since it leaks. Thanks for the suggestion about the silicone hose. Perhaps in a few years if it gives me trouble again I will use that instead get-vidmate.com instasave.onl

This post has been edited by feedtalefive: Mar 7 2021, 07:04 AM
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