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> 245 Ran Great After New Coil, Now Long Starts Developed
madtowndiesel
post Jan 4 2017, 01:59 PM
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Hi all, I have aí89 245 and shortly after I bought it developed stalling and hesitating. I took it into the local 240 Volvo guru and they did the usual, checked both pumps, cleaned throttle body, new crankshaft sensor, new fuel pump relay, fixed an odd one out spark plug wire and even replaced the wiring harness. Dash was taken apart and fuse box was cleaned up. He said he replaced the original air mass sensor but it looks like it is off an old car. After all that, he couldnít stop the hesitating and stalling. I took it back and after reading up, I replaced the coil and fired up and purred like a kitten. It ran great for 3 weeks.

I then had the exhaust replaced from the resonator back, new custom welded back half. 3 restarts later running errands in 1/2 a day, the long cranking/starts happened. It coincided with the first real cold day. 3-4 long cranks then it gives a feeble start. That became the norm even in 30 5-40 degree weather. It would run smooth once started but it was a challenge. Yesterday I replaced the spark plugs and new wires and it took 4-5 long cranking sessions and then a whimper start. I wiggled the new coil wire and that caused it to run really rough. Iím sort of out of ideas. I came across an article last night about bad ECUs and when having any body or exhaust electrical welding work to disconnect the SRS computers (?). I was wondering since it started great only 3 times just after the exhaust job, if that could have fried the ECU or Fuel Injection Relay? Itís that or Iím looking at trying a new Air Mass Sensor. There is also a sensor in front of the resonator that looks new and no apparent holes in the vacuum lines. I would love to get this back on the road!

Thanks for any potential ideas!
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danielm85948
post Jan 4 2017, 06:35 PM
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QUOTE (madtowndiesel @ Jan 4 2017, 01:59 PM)
Hi all, I have aí89 245 and shortly after I bought it developed stalling and hesitating. I took it into the local 240 Volvo guru and they did the usual, checked both pumps, cleaned throttle body, new crankshaft sensor, new fuel pump relay, fixed an odd one out spark plug wire and even replaced the wiring harness. Dash was taken apart and fuse box was cleaned up. He said he replaced the original air mass sensor but it looks like it is off an old car. After all that, he couldnít stop the hesitating and stalling. I took it back and after reading up, I replaced the coil and fired up and purred like a kitten. It ran great for 3 weeks.

I then had the exhaust replaced from the resonator back, new custom welded back half. 3 restarts later running errands in 1/2 a day, the long cranking/starts happened. It coincided with the first real cold day. 3-4 long cranks then it gives a feeble start. That became the norm even in 30 5-40 degree weather. It would run smooth once started but it was a challenge. Yesterday I replaced the spark plugs and new wires and it took 4-5 long cranking sessions and then a whimper start. I wiggled the new coil wire and that caused it to run really rough. Iím sort of out of ideas. I came across an article last night about bad ECUs and when having any body or exhaust electrical welding work to disconnect the SRS computers (?). I was wondering since it started great only 3 times just after the exhaust job, if that could have fried the ECU or Fuel Injection Relay? Itís that or Iím looking at trying a new Air Mass Sensor. There is also a sensor in front of the resonator that looks new and no apparent holes in the vacuum lines. I would love to get this back on the road!

Thanks for any potential ideas!

replace your fuel pump relay.
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madtowndiesel
post Jan 5 2017, 09:51 AM
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QUOTE (danielm85948 @ Jan 4 2017, 05:35 PM)
replace your fuel pump relay.



Thanks danielm85948. I have one on the way.
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madtowndiesel
post Jan 8 2017, 03:08 PM
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Sadly a new Fuel pump relay didn't do it. Still cranking and cranking away.
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danielm85948
post Jan 8 2017, 05:40 PM
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QUOTE (madtowndiesel @ Jan 8 2017, 03:08 PM)
Sadly a new Fuel pump relay didn't do it. Still cranking and cranking away.

go back to basics test your coil for a spark if spark found remove the lead from your spark plug, if not found remove and check your distributor cap may need cleaned. and check the rotor arm may need cleaned after that is done try turn over then check your plugs smell them do you smell fuel if you smell fuel change the spark plugs.if not then check the fuel filter you may need a noid light set to check you are getting fuel power to your injectors and check fuel going to the return pipe remove the pipe to check you are getting fuel check all of that first before you move to the next set of checks.
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madtowndiesel
post Jan 8 2017, 08:15 PM
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Thanks for the great info, danielm85948. I'll make sure I do these. I thought about revisiting the coil. I replaced the fuel pump relay today. My time is reduced to the weekend and it was 7 degrees F. today. I replaced all the fuses in the main panel, brass ceramic only ones I had left over from a full replacement on my '83 Benz. I read about the 25 amp blade fuse near the Mass Air Sensor and battery, but it said that a lot of updates to it had the red lead going back to the battery terminal like mine. Last weekend when I replaced the plugs, I had a new distributor cap and rotor ready, I tried to pull the cap off but it was on hard and didn't want to force something in super cold weather. I cleaned up the metal parts with a brass brush, but hoping to replace these in the next days. I'm used to pulling them off small block Fords (mustangs) but it wasn't budging easily.
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grendel1960
post Jan 9 2017, 02:03 PM
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maybe test the fuel flow, it may be the fuel pump playing up, but test first, it might also be worth checking the fuse has a good connection.
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madtowndiesel
post Jan 16 2017, 11:37 AM
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An update. On my day off I talked to another Volvo indy shop here that was recommended by a my auto parts store. The guy worked for the dealer years ago. He suggested trying the water temp sensor. He said that it very well could be that. I had one come in from Chicago, and am waiting for this ice storm to clear. It's going to warm up into the 40s by end of week. I found a vacuum boot by the firewall that had come slightly ajar as well.

2 other items. I'm having difficulty locating the 20-25 amp blade fuse for the fuel pump. I read that it is near this junction box by the battery. The image 1983-1990 is from the web. mine doesn't have this fuse holder next to the junction box. mine (following pic) has the thick red wiring running down into this taped up connector and then a wire branches up to the battery positive terminal.

One last thing I've been trying to look up online. What is this flex pipe that runs off the exhaust manifold by the alternator and snakes around the bottom front of the car. Picture of mine attached. It is perforated. I traced it to up under the belly pan. I didn't get that off to see where it originates because of the weather, but again, hoping to this weekend and wondering if that's an easy replacement.

Thanks!
Attached File(s)
Attached File  fuelpumpfuse.jpg ( 194.18K ) Number of downloads: 3
Attached File  IMG_1953.JPG ( 821.02K ) Number of downloads: 3
Attached File  IMG_2072.JPG ( 957.17K ) Number of downloads: 3
Attached File  IMG_2078.JPG ( 1.02MB ) Number of downloads: 3
 
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grendel1960
post Jan 16 2017, 02:13 PM
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the flex pipe may be the warm air feed to the air box / air filter
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madtowndiesel
post Jan 16 2017, 10:20 PM
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Thanks grendel1960. That makes sense.
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