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> Knock Sensor, How to replace knock sensor
gzucca
post Jan 30 2006, 07:46 PM
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Drives: 1994 850 Turbo



I have a 94 850Turbo and the check engine code indicates a bad signal from the knock sensor. I know their is an upgraded knock sensor for this car and the job involves removing the intake manifold. Where can I get instructions as to how to remove the intake manifold. I am sure I can do this job with a little direction.
Thanks,
Glenn
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Papa John
post Jan 30 2006, 09:34 PM
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Hi Glenn,

I have done this in the past few weeks on my 94. I'll tell you how. First a few questions.

1. Why do you think it is a knock sensor? Is the car running bad?
2. Do you have any other fault codes? What are they?
3. Clear the fault codes and see if it comes back.
4. How many miles on your car?

I went thru the same exercise and spent money on a part that wasn't bad. I was told and now believe that they don't go bad very often. I have an extra set if you want it at a cheaper price ($150 at dealer).

Anyway. I should have taken note of all the fault codes then cleared them. I chased a bunch of old faults that had been there since the day my first kid was born.

Anyway, my car's problem was that it wouldn't run. And there were no faults in the system.

The upgrade kit is not that interesting -- nothing different except a quick release cable. You still need to take the intake manifold off to get to the bloody things. And it still costs you $150 or so.

The job does involve removing the intake manifold. Not too hard, just a lot of things in the way.

1. remove the fan, label all the little air hoses

2. remove the air cleaner and other big air tubes. Remove the big tube connecting the turbo (you have a turbo right?) -- doesn't matter, very similar. You need to get under the manifold with your hand and those tubes get in the way.

3. bleed the fuel rail of fuel pressure, unbold it from the manifold
4. unbold the fuel pipes from the block (2 places)
5. disconnect the injector wires, lay this harness to the side
6. carefully pull the fuel rail and injectors out of the intake manifold, disconnect the fuel pressure regulator air hose -- lay all this out of the way (just enough to get to the manifold bolts.

7. disconnect throttle cable somewhere in here
8. disconnect the brake hose from the manifold
9. disconnect any other air hoses from the throttle body area that attach to the other parts of the block.
10. disconnect a few connectors from the throttle body, lay them over/near the transmission (should be very visible now)

11. Now, take a small wrench (I think it is 8mm) and reach under and take out the 2 bolts holding the EGR valve on the manifold.

Almost there
12. Take a 10mm (or 12mm?) and loosen all bolts from the top of the manifold.
13. Take a 12mm (or 13mm) and take off the bolt holding the dipstick to the manifold -- it is on the bottom of the manifold, pointing up.
14. There is one more bolt WAY under the manifold, behind the dipstick that you just took out. Now you know why we took off the fan and all those air tubes.

15. Ok, you should be able to wiggle the manifold at this point. Did I forget anything?
16. Remove the top manifold bolts. DO NOT REMOVE THE LOWER BOLTS. I did and lost a few hours. They lower bolts just need to be loose.
17. The manifold should just lift straight up at this point.

Get back to me with questions or whatever. Maybe this post will help others also.

John
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Papa John
post Feb 2 2006, 10:27 PM
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Step 16.5. Removed the spark plug cover
16.6 Unclamp the oil breather hose that runs thru the intake manifold to somewheres underneath
16.7 Start lifting off the intake manifold, straight up. There will be a small hose connected to the left side that will need to be removed.

17.1 There may be other hoses there that I've forgotten.

** change all "unbold" spelling to "unbolt" in my last post
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ampangbear
post Feb 6 2006, 12:35 AM
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:clap:
:clap:


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gzucca
post Feb 6 2006, 06:04 PM
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Thanks John,

I only have one error code that ever comes up. I can't remember exactly which one, maybe 1-4-3 but I am not sure. When I looked it up it indicated a faulty Knock Sensor. If I reset the computer the fault comes back afer a couple of weeks. I brought it to the dealer and they confirmed the same diagoses but they wanted 500 to fix it. I will give it a try myself with your instructions.

Thanks and take care.

Glenn
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Papa John
post Feb 6 2006, 08:25 PM
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Drives: 1994 850 Turbo, 1989 827s Sterling



I have a few extras. I made the mistake of not clearning the codes before buying. I'll send you one. No cost. $150ísh from the dealer. Let me know. Or, maybe you can find one at a junk yard. They normally don't go bad.
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ampangbear
post Feb 17 2006, 07:31 AM
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That's really nice of you, Papa John...


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