Hello there, what a small world it is, i have just bought a 440 LE and lo-and-behold it was the one for sale by paulwetherhill on this very forum!

I have to say that I paid more than he did but for the time and work he put inot getting it driveable I think I got a bargain still.

I just had a few wee questions about it though, hope some of you can give me some tips:

I'm hoping to get it MOTed by the end of the week and the horn is causing me probs, like it was Paul. Horn unit is new, swithches behind 'wheel are new. He said the only reason it doesn't work is the relay. Am i right in thinking (from the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual) that the horn doesn't go through a relay?! And why are there 2 'horn units' in the diagram? is this simply the 2 connections to the physical horn unit on the car?

Other question was regarding the block: it's **** rusty, is this a common problem on these cars? It's a 1.8i, done 120k so I wasn't expecting a glistening finish, but still...

The other questions I had were answered by looking on the forum and finding the answers to the same questions because Paul had asked them earlier, so a cheers to those guys.

Anyway; great wee forum, any help muchly appreciated.

Cheers

Appleman

Good Luck with your problems! I had problems with the horn. They wire that was on the horn had corroded so it is now replaced and now working. I suggest you take it to a garage and ask them to fix the horn then MOT the car.

Hope this helps you in anyway.

Cheers Billie,

I haven't metered the wires yet but have heard rumours of Volvos of that age having dodgy wiring, so will do.

I really wanted to avoid going to a garage and getting them to diagnose the fault cos I don't have the cash for that really. Although if it's still not working when the car goes in for it's MOT then i will have to bite the bullet and get them to do it!

Any more wisdom thankfully received...

appleman

As I said to Paul on 20th December, I really do not think that there is a horn relay, just an "on/off" sprung switch, a fuse to protect the circuit, wiring & the horns themselves.

The horn (or horns if dual horn fitted) and their contact are very exposed to the elements. Check for corrosion on the horn(s) and contact & if everything looks OK, suggest you use a circuit tester to check for juice at fuse & then, while an assistant presses the horn switch, for current at the horn connection. Check horn is well earthed.

Process of elimination along the wiring if there is current at the fuse. If all else fails, check for current at the switch as well, but use caution if disturbing the airbag assembly.

Good luck.

BB
:57:

BB

Cheers for that, the guy in the scrappy looked puzzled when I asked him about it; no wonder if it doesn't exist!

Will hopefully get round to fixing it on Thursday, being a conscientious student I have too much to do 'til then. No, really, we do work hard sometimes...

I will post with results of the testing...

appleman

Forgot to comment on the "rusty block" thing - it's cast iron so yes, it will have surface rust, but it's cosmetic & shouldn't cause any problems.

Just a thought - if working with the ignition on, don't touch or disturb the airbag at all!

BB
:haha:

Cheers for that BB

Just thought I'd update you all on what happened when I booked the 440 in for the MOT...

It went in for a 60point service and MOT for £88 with all that I thought needed done (horn fixed; wiring fault) to pass done (apart from erratic idle)...

Erratic Idle = Missfire = no compression in cylinder 3 = £400 parts&labour to fix + £88 to then do service and MOT which it still might not pass!!!

Total = Too much = Goodnight 440!

Or does it...?
This was not at a volvo dealer or even a specialist. Am i being taken for a ride? I believe the diagnosis, just wondering about the cost. Too high?

I can't find any Volvo specialists in the Glasgow South area, only main dealers, and from what I've read on these forums I will have to part with both an upper and a lower limb to get anything done there.

Basically, HELP! And/or would anyone like a broken volvo for £120 in Glasgow South?! :lol:

It doesn't run that badly on 3 cylinders, it's just not gonna pass the smoke test in the MOT.

Appleman

you can also try finding a renault specialist. the engine should be a renualt unit in that car.

:crying: Sorry Appleman, but if no.3 cylinder really has nil compression then realistically at that age & residual value (+ bearing in mind your student status) it's a breaker for spares. Don't get sucked into feeling emotional about the car - who knows, you could get your money back by selling it off for spares or in bits!

Just promise us that your next car will also be a Volvo.....

BB
:grin:

BB,

How could I not get emotional?! Doesn't everyone get a bit misty eyed when they think back to when and where they had their first Volvo? :P
And like many, mine was a bit of a let down; I got little pleasure and it was all over too fast!!!

Just a bit miffed that I have so little knowledge of cars that I got my fingers burnt, so to speak. The 440 will sit at my folks' place SORN til I fogure out what the funk to do with it.

Cheers for the advice before anyway, if I ever get another Volvo (not a 440!) am sure I will be back on here to see what's what.

Happy Volvo-ing,

Appleman

I suspect that a poor maintenance regime or use of inferior oil by previous owners, years before Paul bought the car, will have caused the compression problem. The engine is a very solid Renault unit which, if looked after properly, will easily go round the clock a couple of times, often much more than that.

Recommend that when you sort things out & buy your next car (read Volvo!), maybe take someone along with more experience of cars who can advise you.

All the best.

BB
:thumbsup: