Hi ya's. My mechanic of the last 10 years has had my S80 (2000) in his shop for 7 days all told, and he is as frustrated as I am. Front end is making clunking noises at fairly unpredictable times. Mechanic has replaced pretty much the whole front end. The only posts I saw that might give us hope are the transmission torque rod and the upper motor mount. I'll tell him about that tomorrow. What a trip! Never had so many hassles with a Volvo. Anyways, very glad to have found this site - the answer is here - I know it!

Get him to have a look at the top mounts for the front suspension, also the shocks and engine mounts.

Stu.

My main dealer tell me it's not a problem, it's the suspension catching in it's housing (top/bottom) and then at a particular compression, it 'twangs' as it un-catches.
Lubrication in the housing apparantly solves the problem.

I have a 2000 S80 that had a similar problem but mine would "crench" like an old wagon. I had struts, strunt links, strut mounts, and strut bushings all replaced new and still had the noise. I just couldn't handle this noise which would happen just about anytime but mostly when I would put a strain on the drivers side.

Anyway, I finally took it to the dealer and they knew exactly what it was. On the S80 the rear subframe mount bushings are bad about making noise, so Volvo designed a rubber oring that goes right on top on the rear subframe bushings to stop this noise. Bad design if you ask me. They also replaced the subframe bushing bolts on the rear also. PROBLEM SOLVED !!!! No more noise. To bad I didn't just go ahead and buy the parts, only $45, but with dealer labor and all cost me $350. ****, I didn't want to mess with it and they assured me this would fix it. Well worth it to me. Hope this helps.

Do you know anything about the a similar o ring for the front sub frame bolts? I have the subframe off for the oil pan job and thought i would fit these as my car has a clunking noise as well? Perhaps I should do front and rear?

Spoke to the Volvo agent and they have supplied me with two new o rings for the front subframe. The go between the subframe and frame. USD$10 each. I'll see how that goes. If there is still a noise will do the back ones as well. They suggest chnaging the bolts. But we agreed a wire brush on the threads combined with some Locktite would be fine.

I had the same kind of noise on my 2000 S80 T6. It made a sound of creaching when turnig right slowley. I finally got tired of replacing parts and took it to the dealer and told them to find it and fix it. They did what you were talking about but instead of me buying the parts and fixing it myself (which I could've done) I was so feed up with it I told them to fix it. All told It cost me $350 to replace 2 orings and 2 bolts for the rear subframe :o !!! That was robbery.... but it fixed that damn annoying noise :) .

My last post was not correct. The O Rings were for the rear subframe, not the front as I said. I changed them today. It is a simple job that you can do at home. The main subframe bolts take a bit to undo. Use a second jack to support the subframe as you take the bolts out and then simply slide the O Ring in. I used locktite when I did the bolts up.

The agent said they very rarely have complaints about the front subframe bushings.

Could you supply more detail where the rear subframe mounts are? I'm a newbie and want to fix my S80 T6 clunks and save the $350 labor for a $10 part. Thanks :liebe011:

Did you also check the upper spring seat and sway bar links?

My upper spring seats were good...still springy at 74,000 miles. Haven't seen any posts on how to check the swaybar link so how do you check them. My car makes clunk sounds at low speeds while turning and when going over bumps. Any help is appreciated because the dealer wants $115 an hour for labor...ouch. Next step is the local Swedish car specialist if I can't do this myself.

What you need to do is jack the car up with your normal jack. Once up put a jack stand under the car for safety. Put thye jack somewhere away from the subframe bolts as you obvioulsly need to access these. Place a scissor jack under the subframe. Then simply undo the smaller two bolts and then the large centre bolt. Use the scissor jack to take the weight on the subframe. Lower the subframe until you get enough space between the bushing and the car frame. Slide the o ring in. Its obvious where it goes. The larger bolt takes some undoing. Some people say replace the bolts when they are out. I simply wire brushed and put loctite on and did them back up. Do the bolts back up and then do the other side. I found i had to have the subframe bolts loosened on the opposite side from the one I was working on to get the gap on the side I was working large enough to put the O Ring in. Good luck. Any questions let me know.

The cluck sound your getting doesn't sound like the subframe orings rather a strut strut plate, or a strut bushing like Tech said. The sound I was getting from my subframe bushings was more of a creaching sound like an old pirate ship. Wouldn't hurt to replace those orings though, you will probably have to eventually anyways. Good Luck!

Just got a 99 S80 with 67.5K miles on it... I've got the clunking sound that is more prounounced on the right side when hitting small bumps etc. My spousal unit (wife to you single folks), swears that we have the creaking sound as well. I don't have a service history, but based on the $1280 I spent replacing the brake booster and having a tranny flush - not to mention what I will have to do to the ABS control and the 02 sensor - I would bet that the prev owner didn't much take care of it. What do you all think? struts or 0-rings on the subframes? Also - just how "easy" is it to do myself?

Thanks for a great forum!!!!

My had all the same problems yours have, seems to be very common in the early S80s. My advice is do what I did because now I am 100% happier. Replace the front struts, strut plates, and strut bushings then that cluncking noise will go away. Then if your squeking or creching noise is still there, then replace the rear subframe orings that will go above the bushing, this is a Volvo fix to a known creaching sound problem (Which I had too). As far as your ABS control module, have it rebuilt, had mine done by Victor at a cost of $130. This fixed a lot of warning lights that would come and go and some would stay on for example ABS light, Traction control light, Brake light, check engine light, and even a stop immediately brake failure message. He has instructions on how to do this and it is very easy to do yourself, took me maybe 30 minutes to take it out. You can still drive without the ABS module in, I did with no problems. But I would say buckle down for some costly repairs on the 99 S80, I've already spent $2500 on a car i spent $6500 for and this was with me doing a lot of the labor myself. But I do have to say, once it is all said and done, it was well worth it for me because this car drives like a dream. Good Luck!

Thanks for the adv on the struts... did you do this yourself and if so - how difficult/tools/time etc... I'm about avg for mech inclined. If not - can I take it to a susp shop?

I took out the ABS mod this eve and will be shipping to victor once I get his address... couldn't find it on his sight... perhaps not looking hard enough.

I've spent 1250 so far and would like to keep it under 2K. I think I'm also looking at front engine mount (burning smell, but no black on the exhaust plate on the rear of the eng), and perhaps some tranny work - shuddering 2-3 shift under heavier than normal pedal. (any ideas on the tranny - I know... :offtopic: )

I REALLY like driving this car... by far the most comfy I've ever driven. Moving to Tx in 4 mos and will be driving ALOT in traffic so it has to be comfy - but more important reliable.

Thanks Mikey!!! (I'm a Mikey too)

:amen:

To check the sway bar links with the car on a lift or jacked up and supported safely Pull and push on the sway bar. If the link is bad you will feel a little clicking when you are moving it.
Some also use a 15mm wrench on the bottom nut of the sway bar to test for play.