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> Cold Start Issue
numek
post Jan 1 2006, 10:21 PM
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Hi everyone,

I picked up a '87 240 DL in Oct. 2003, and the entire time it takes several attempts to start the engine when it's cold. After its warmed up this doesn't occur. In late Oct. - Dec. 2003, I took it in a local shop 3 times for repair, including leaving it overnight for the shop to correctly evaluate similar cold starting conditions. The first time was to repair the suspension and added a preheat tube & fuel filter. The 2nd time a head temp sensor (out of range) was replaced. This didn't help. The third time the shop replaced the idle speed regulator (not idling up but decent fuel pressure). I continued to tell the owner it still didn't start up much better in cold conditions like it supposed to, but he kept blowing me off and giving me wishy washy answers.

I took the vehicle on a 15 hour roadtrip in Jan. 2004, and once to the city it died completely. Another repair shop reinstalled a used mass air flow sensor, and reconnected a wire from the fuse box to relay. Also cleaned out the fuel injectors. This fixed the problem but not the cold start issue.

In Aug. 2004 I replaced the starter contraption.

This December I simply could not start the vehicle with a charged battery & eager starter. I'm guessing it not starting may be related to the cold start issue. The spark plugs we're checked last in Jan. 2004.

Please post if you have any idea how to solve this issue.

Regards, numek
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iohnnyc
post Jan 16 2006, 06:50 PM
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sorry, i don't have a solution, but i don't want this post to be lost in the mix.

my girlfriend is having the exact same issue...i think with the same make & model as well.

it really became an issue after she drove it for too long with the engine overheating, which may or may not be related.
she has since taken it to a couple different shops on 4-5 separate occasions, and spent more $$ than the car was purchased for.

the car runs fine, after it finally starts, but every morning i am awakened by the most horrid sounds of her trying to start the car for about 5 minutes.
it just keeps turning, and eventually after about 6 or 7 nice, grinding tries, the engine will sputter to a start, and die again. then after a couple more tries and pumping the gas, she'll be good to go pretty much for the rest of the day.

i know upon one of the initial trips to the shop, one of the sensors was worked on (it has a wire that runs to the side of the hood closes to the driver, sorry, i'm not technically versed, but the mechanic just told us to jiggle the wire if we kept having problems--i think its beyond that now), and i think a gasket was replaced for the the overheating issue. i'm almost certain that the fuel pump and air filter has been changed. also, just recently the wires were replaced as well as the spark plug.

if you find out what's wrong, please post. i've been telling her to sell the car for a while now, but it runs fine, especially if this cold start issue can be resolved.

thanks,
johnny
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n xntrx volvo
post Jan 16 2006, 07:19 PM
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which temp sensor did they replace? there is 2 on the engine.
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iohnnyc
post Jan 17 2006, 05:50 PM
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after talking to my girl about this:
her car is an 1989 240 sedan, and the sensor was not replaced, just secured to the chassis (i think). the mechanic showed me where it was located.
from memory, it looked like a wire that was connected to the back of the compartment under the hood. furthest from the front of the car, behind everything else.

forgive my lack of technical verbage and know-how. we are planning on taking the car back to another mechanic soon, so any tips would be much appreciated.

thanks,
johnny
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HackAsaw
post Feb 14 2006, 02:40 PM
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cold hard carbon deposits act like a sponge to fuel..... not so as the engine warms

go to your local GM parts dealer and get some "top engine fuel cleaner" or whatever they've named it as of now

available in spray can or pour can

get the spray can(s) for your car

follow the directions

always a best first place to start with a cold starting problem if the engine has any notable mileage

likely it will cure your problem

I'm sure Volvo has their approved witches brew for this malady as well.. short of blasting with walnut hulls like we used to do it.... but I prefer the GM TEC out of all of them I've used
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Tinkerbell
post Feb 16 2006, 09:56 PM
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I have an older car than yours but was recently discussing starting cold start problems, decided that wasn't related to my issue, but someone suggested that since metal contracts when cold that could affect the contacts at a number of points. Check your distributor cap, is the pin still there? (I'm serious my car was running great but when checking another problem we found that pin was missing - don't know how it was still starting) Just beneath the distributor cap area there is a small wire harness, two wires I think, make sure that is plugged in securely and then check the ignition module (on my year it's on the right front side by the overflow tank - yours may be elsewhere) they can get loose and sometimes plugging and unplugging will help. You know you can't have just anyone work on your Volvo. I once had a guy look under my hood (some years ago) and say, "that sure is a funny looking carburator". I said, " that's the air conditioner, it's fuel injected, you can close the hood now". They aren't hard to work on but some mechanics have a real problem. Make sure the plugs are Bosch. Good Luck, it's a good car but sometimes it's like a treasure hunt to find the problem
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alidrus2000
post Feb 16 2006, 11:15 PM
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I have been having a simillar cold start problem:

Idling is low rpm, shaky and unstable when the car has been sitting for a while (few hours). Then gradually it gets better and better. I have changed the air filter and replaced the air intake hose which was leaking but apparently this did not solve the problem fully.

I just switched to a mechanic here whom a lot of Malaysian 240 drivers like to send their cars to and he diagnosed a faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator. He says that after the car has been sitting for a while, the fuel starts to drain back to the fuel tank and thus the car is shaky and feels like it is running on less than 4 cylinders until the fuel pressure slowly builds up. My car uses a K-Jetronic mechanical fuel injection system, so I doubt any sensors are at fault.

I havent had the FPR changed yet as I just did a major repair (rear absorbers, rear axle oil, both engine mounting, 1 tie rod, both steering ball joints, speedometer, all exhaust manifold gaskets, all 4 brake pads) and I've burnt a little hole in my pocket. My mechanic says that it should not be too much of a problem for now as long as I allow some time for fuel pressure to build up before I start driving.

Once I have had a chance (and some cash) to change the FPR, I will post again and let u know if the problem has been solved.
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The Doctor
post Feb 17 2006, 07:27 PM
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so I assume you put an old engine in yr car??

the KJet sort of ended before 1980 or so I thought
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alidrus2000
post Feb 19 2006, 08:15 AM
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QUOTE(The Doctor @ Feb 18 2006, 08:27 AM)
so I assume you put an old engine in yr car??

the KJet sort of ended before 1980 or so I thought
[right][snapback]24660[/snapback][/right]


No, actually here in Malaysia, the 240 GLTs in 1990s had Bosch KJet CIS, and the engines used here were the B230E instead of B230F (I suspect simillar to what they have in Europe).
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The Doctor
post Feb 19 2006, 06:46 PM
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well if KJet then you need to look at WUR and start up injector [see my many posts], albeit in tropics one does not really have a cold start, ie the bimetal strip in WUR will cold start at say 25 psi so if it is blocked [ie at 70 psi] the car may still start whereas it would not in a cold climate

the start after a few hours is generally caused by incorrect operation of start up injector, ie the sensor next to main temp sensor controls it and they go bad very quick [because so intricate] - best to just replace with a switch you can use from inside car
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