I have a 440 (1991 J reg) and the ignition lock has worn out. A determined RAC man managed to get the ignition key to turn but advised me not to switch off again! So I gave left the key in position I and disconnected the battery.

I gather from other posts on this forum that it is possible to replace the lock barrel but does anyone know how? The Haynes Manual is no help!
I would really appreciate any advice.
Thanks.

Actually Mr. Haynes does help a lot - but you have to look up Steering Lock rather than Ignition Lock (obvious really) - there are even pictures. Lock and Barrel replaced in five mnutes. Panic over!

Hi, Any advice on how to remove the barrel lock on a Volvo 440. Our neighbour has managed to snap how key off and the car is now stuck over our drive? We don't have access to a Haynes Manual and have tried in vain to get the key out with some pliers. Any simple advice on how to removal the barrel lock would be gratefully received.

Help please?

I would call out a breakdown company to help you.

If you can get the key to position II, then bend a strong paper clip or the like at 90 deg. with about 4mm length. Locate small hole on top of unit housing ignition barrel. It is to just off-center to the right of steering column. Depress the tang by putting the short end of the paper clip in the hole, and pull the barrel out, rocking it back and forth may help. This is easier with a key sticking out, but still possible without by grasping the right end of the barrel by the black shroud.

1992 440GL

Why does the steering lock engage before I pull out my key? It will not pass inspection this way and Haynes manual also states that the steering wheel lock should not engage until the key is pulled out.

Tried both keys, one of which is like new condition(though copied from the old). Yet with both keys the wheel lock engages when the key is moved to the off (O) position.

I got the barrel out by pushing on the hole in the top of the housing with a bent paper clip. Since then I have been messing with it yet have not worked out the problem. The problem is not in column itself - I tested it with pliers imitating the correct operation of the ignition barrel - all OK.

There is something that should keep the inner barrel of the lock from being pushed back by the spring-loaded wheel lock assembly inside the housing when the key is turned from ON (II) back to the off (O)position. And then engage the lock only when the key is pulled out. What piece would that be?

Lock itself was refurbished about 4 years ago with new pins and is well lubed. The green plastic housing does not fit tightly since one of the securing tabs broke off, but holding it firmly in place did not change the operation of the lock.

What am I missing here?

Some time later.... I think I got it solved - time will tell. It was the white spring-loaded piece of plastic within the clear green housing on the key entry end of the barrel. It was worn? or something, but I very carefully glued a small piece of paper clip into the part of the green housing that this white plastic part fits into. That keeps the white plastic piece from being pushed too far out by the spring. So that seems to have done the trick. Its time for a new lock assembly, but this got it done well enough to pass inspection - this year. Plus it only cost some time and a drop of glue.