 Hid Upgrade- Low Beam Failure |
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| Hid Upgrade- Low Beam Failure |
 Nov 27 2005, 01:11 AM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 3 Joined: 26-November 05 Member No.: 9,277 Status:  Location: Bay Area, USA Drives: 2005 Volvo S40 T5  |
Hi Everyone, I just bought a S40 T5 last week and would like to upgrade to HID. i installed the HID but getting a low beam failure. I found a fix for it but having a hard time locating the CEM (Central Electronic Module). I already check under the dash of the driver and passenger side and no luck.. Is CEM and ECM the same?
http://www.xenonvalot.com/xenonfixvolvo.html |
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Nov 29 2005, 09:06 AM
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#2
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Veteran  Group: Super Mod Posts: 3,420 Joined: 29-April 05 Member No.: 4,684 Status: Location: USA Drives: 2005 S60 R |
Im no expert, but it looks like the same thing to me. Maybe its in a diff place in the S40, but in the top photo it looks like the foot rest for the driver's left foot. There was nothing that looked like that up under the driver's side?
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Feb 3 2006, 03:15 PM
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#3
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Member  Group: Members Posts: 30 Joined: 9-January 06 Member No.: 10,581 Status: Location: USA Drives: 2005 - V50 T5 |
Hi There!
I have the wagon version of your car, a V50 T5. I too am having the save problem that you are with the HID upgrade. My kit feeds the ballast with a separate fused feed from the battery. A relay is powered (switched) through the factory plug that powers the Halogen. So basically the halogen load has been replaced by the relay. I get low beam failure and the lights switch off and a I hear a buzzing (not 100% sure where it is coming from). The low beams are powered through the CEM. From what I understand, there is a resistor that is in the line. The computer reads the voltage drop across the resistor to see if the lights are on or not. If the current drops (since the relay draws less amps than the halogen, same is true if you power the xenon using the factory wiring, xenon draw less amps than the halogen) the voltage across the resistor drops and the computer thinks the light isn't working, low beam failure. The CEM is located on the passenger's side under the glove box (it is the white tray with fuses, relays, etc. on it). You have to drop the carpet to access it, it is detailed in your owners manual. I haven't had a change to locate the "shunt" equivalent on the CEM. Once I do, I will be sure to post my finding. What have you done since your post, have you got the hid's working? Cheers.... |
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Feb 4 2006, 01:46 AM
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#4
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Veteran Group: Super Mod Posts: 3,420 Joined: 29-April 05 Member No.: 4,684 Status: Location: USA Drives: 2005 S60 R |
I referred to this post/the above link for others with the same problem. Has anyone actaully done this to the shunt, and has it worked?
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Feb 10 2006, 11:01 AM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 30 Joined: 9-January 06 Member No.: 10,581 Status: Location: USA Drives: 2005 - V50 T5 |
I was able to get a decent look at the CEM (I didn't remove it because there are three wire harnesses that fasten to the CEM that are difficult to get off. I didn't have enough time to try to get it out. I was able to remove it from the track to get a decent look. There is no shunt on it like the S60/V70. There are only relays and fuses. I will have to remove it completely to see if there are any terminal type numbers on it. I have a wiring diagram with terminal numbers where the lights connect to the CEM from the low beams. If the terminals are labeled, I may be able to see what is inline (a resistor) that reads the current. But, from what I was able to see, there are no terminals.
On a different note, I sent an e-mail to the folks at xenonalot (the site that posted the solution for the S60/V70). No reply... If anyone has info, please post it. Cheers.... |
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Mar 9 2006, 01:16 PM
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#6
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Member Group: Members Posts: 30 Joined: 9-January 06 Member No.: 10,581 Status: Location: USA Drives: 2005 - V50 T5 |
Did you ever get this squared away? Are your HID's working? The CEM in under the glove box on the passengers side.
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Mar 9 2006, 03:15 PM
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#7
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 3 Joined: 26-November 05 Member No.: 9,277 Status: Location: Bay Area, USA Drives: 2005 Volvo S40 T5 |
Well I dont have the low beam failure anymore. I hook up my HID with the wiring harness. I then T-tap a 12G wire from the positive of the Low Beam to the Positive of the Fog Lights. You have to do this on both sides
here are some pics. I will take some more pics later on.. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gpvistan/album?.dir=/f017 |
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 Mar 9 2006, 03:45 PM
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#8
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 Veteran Group: Super Mod Posts: 1,614 Joined: 12-January 05 Member No.: 2,310 Status: Location: New Zealand Drives: 1999 S80 |
:cat: Hi there S40 T5.
I just clicked your URL. This is the message I got from Yahoo: The File You Are Looking For Is Inaccessible Cheers :right: |
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Mar 9 2006, 08:00 PM
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#9
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 3 Joined: 26-November 05 Member No.: 9,277 Status: Location: Bay Area, USA Drives: 2005 Volvo S40 T5 |
try it again
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Mar 17 2006, 03:40 PM
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#10
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Member Group: Members Posts: 30 Joined: 9-January 06 Member No.: 10,581 Status: Location: USA Drives: 2005 - V50 T5 |
From what you describe in your fix, the HID's are switched by the fog lights; I see that the fogs are on in the pictures. Do you still get LBF on the computer? I would expect that you would since the load is gone from the factory wiring. Unless you are powering the fog's through the factory low beams along with the HID's. If this is the case, you just increased the load on that circuit, be careful...If this option was done, I would still expect a LBF (unless the LBF signals due to lower current, not higher current levels). Please explain in more detail what you did...
I am searching for a fix that maintains the current switching. Your kit (ballast) is powered directly from the factory lights correct? So you are getting the LBF because of the amp difference between 55W (4.6A) halogen to 35W (2.9A) HID. I heard other people with S40/V50 say that if they power the ballast directly from the factory wiring, the LBF goes away but I haven't confirmed it. But if your kit is powered through the factory wiring and you get LBF then the others may not be correct. Since my kit has a separate power source, I was thinking about running a ground wire to the light switch directly. I will still get LBF on the screen but it could be acknowledged. The only problem with this fix is when I go to the dealer for service. They will try to fix the error code and let the cat out of the bag... I will keep searching for a better solution, and will post once I find it. Again, please elaborate on what you did. Cheers... :beer: |
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Mar 1 2007, 04:58 PM
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#11
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 5 Joined: 18-May 06 Member No.: 14,862 Status: Location: Toronto, Canada Drives: 2006 Volvo S60 2.5T |
'06 S60's are affected by this too - it's not just a matter of getting rid of the LBF error, but the computer detects a lower than normal draw and shuts off the power to the low beam circuit.
I'm thinking of tapping into the fog lights too, but I've already had issues with the driver's side headlight harness frying (it melted - literally), so I"m not sure if I want to bother in case it happens again. QUOTE(V50T5 @ Mar 17 2006, 04:40 PM) From what you describe in your fix, the HID's are switched by the fog lights; I see that the fogs are on in the pictures. Do you still get LBF on the computer? I would expect that you would since the load is gone from the factory wiring. Unless you are powering the fog's through the factory low beams along with the HID's. If this is the case, you just increased the load on that circuit, be careful...If this option was done, I would still expect a LBF (unless the LBF signals due to lower current, not higher current levels). Please explain in more detail what you did...
I am searching for a fix that maintains the current switching. Your kit (ballast) is powered directly from the factory lights correct? So you are getting the LBF because of the amp difference between 55W (4.6A) halogen to 35W (2.9A) HID. I heard other people with S40/V50 say that if they power the ballast directly from the factory wiring, the LBF goes away but I haven't confirmed it. But if your kit is powered through the factory wiring and you get LBF then the others may not be correct. Since my kit has a separate power source, I was thinking about running a ground wire to the light switch directly. I will still get LBF on the screen but it could be acknowledged. The only problem with this fix is when I go to the dealer for service. They will try to fix the error code and let the cat out of the bag... I will keep searching for a better solution, and will post once I find it. Again, please elaborate on what you did. Cheers... :beer: [right][snapback]26944[/snapback][/right] |
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