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> 1994 940 Whine/whur (sp?)
rj_palermo
post Nov 21 2005, 09:41 PM
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My volvo has developed a whine/whur at low speeds that seems to change in pitch as the transmission shifts. When I get up to a fairly fast speed (40mph or more) the noise level drops quite a bit. It does it more when it is cold. I suspect a transmission. Any ideas?
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I have a nut lef...
post Nov 22 2005, 08:01 AM
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Drives: 89 240 DL Estate, 99 S40 2.0T Saloon. 96 850 T5R Wagon. 2001 Land Rover Discovery Td5 ES.



If it's an auto, try changing your transmission fluid a few times. If the fluid looks a murky brown colour when you first drain, refill and repeat the following day (car needs to be driven after changing), colour and clearness should improve after a few changes. Aim for a clear red.

I had this on my old 240, and after a few weeks of ignoring it, I had no power to the wheels after about 1/4 mile, felt like a clutch slipping. Corrected after a few changes.

Let us know what you find.

Stu.
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rj_palermo
post Jan 5 2006, 08:43 PM
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Sorry for the late reply. Between the sinus infections and the cold weather, things did not get done quickly.

I pulled the pan and noticed a few metal pieces in the bottom. I assumed the worst and pulled the transmission. I went through every part looking for abnormal wear or other damage and didn't find anything wrong with it. (sigh) All of the interior seals were in good enough to be reused. I replaced the gaskets and o-rings in the case assembly and put it back in the car.

After putting in new fluid, I took it for a test drive and the noise was gone! However, it resurfaced after about 20 miles of driving. (double sigh)

At this point, I know two things: 1) the transmission is in excellent shape 2) working with the transmission caused the noise to go away for a little while.

Any other ideas?

Bob
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I have a nut lef...
post Jan 7 2006, 07:51 AM
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Sounds as though new fluid might have solved the prob' for a few miles, then gone bad once mixed with residue from previous fluid.

Before spending $$$ just try changing the fluid again, and see if it stays good for a while then goes bad again, you'll probably find it's either cured or it'll go bad again after a slightly longer drive.

If the fluid was in real bad shape on the first change, you may need to repeat a few times and do a few miles in between, to dilute and flush out all the old residue.

Helps if you can drive a 50M or so in first, then reverse, then second, then reverse, etc. Basicaly going through all the gears will help dilution.

Cheapest option first old bean.

What state was the old fluid in when you emptied the box?

Let us know how you get on.

Stu.
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rj_palermo
post Jan 8 2006, 05:17 PM
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I was thinking along the same line though I thought I would have gotten rid of most of the old fluid with the disassembly and inspection.

The fluid that I took out is definitely brown in color so when I didn't find any mechanical I began to suspect the fluid as you described. I found out that the previous owner (my dad) had not changed the fluid during the time he had it. So it had 107mi on the fluid.

I'll give it another week and change it again.

BTW I'be been using Type F. Is there a better choice of fluid?
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I have a nut lef...
post Jan 9 2006, 07:41 AM
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Drives: 89 240 DL Estate, 99 S40 2.0T Saloon. 96 850 T5R Wagon. 2001 Land Rover Discovery Td5 ES.



Almost definatly the fluid then. Without attention you'll begin to get clutch slip sensations as soon as fluid gets warm. Even though theres no clutch.

Left like this, eventualy you'll lose drive completely.

Use the recommended Dexron 2 ATF.

100.000 miles, is far far far overdue for a fluid change.

You should keep changing fluid every couple of days, untill it begins to remain a clear red colour.

Keep us posted.


Stuart.
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