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> Fuel System Problem?, car not starting 1996 850 turbo
nathanrazo
post Aug 30 2005, 09:45 PM
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Back in Feb of this year the problem started to happen a few times. A couple of times the car would sputter and die. I would coast to a stop and then put in park and would be able to restart no problem. Other times it would sputter and I would hit the gas and it would keep going. The other day it sputtered and died on me. Couldn't get it restarted. Went back to it after a couple of hours, got it started, drove a couple of blocks, then it sputtered and died again. Went back to it after a few hours, got it started, got it home where it sputtered and died. Now can't get it started again. Been sitting for more than a day. Been reading that I should probably check fuel pump relay and fuel pump. What are the methods to check these???
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nathanrazo
post Aug 30 2005, 09:49 PM
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oh, the other thing i forgot to mention is that i have never got any error codes on the dash except for ABS light and i'm not worried about that one at the moment
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nathanrazo
post Aug 30 2005, 10:34 PM
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Here is what I have put together that I might need to check. Someone please let me know if I am on the right track and/or what else I might need to do. When the key is in position II I hear a humming noise under the hood. Does that mean the fuel pump relay is good? I read I need to check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail, but I don't know how to do that or where that is. Also read to check the injector relay by the fan shroud. Where to check, how to test? I read how to get to the fuel pump from the trunk compartment. I should get 12 volts for about 2 secs if the fuel pump is good. I have a multimeter say I will try that out. If the fuel pump is not working, what will I see in regards to voltage?
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big_ben
post Aug 31 2005, 07:47 AM
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i might be miles off here, but i had a diesel car some years back that did exactly the same. Turned out to be the fuel pump and what the mechanic explained to me as a split in the diaphram which drew in more air as it got warm. Sounds like yours may have gone altogether in some way. Also had a volvo 340 1.7L about a year later that did the same but would smoke considerably just before stalling. This was also traced to the fuel pump.
Seems like the logical first point of call to me :thumbsup:
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Tech
post Aug 31 2005, 07:02 PM
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Look on the front of the engine you will see an aliminum rail.On the end of it you will see a Stem that looks like a tire stem.Push in the Valve and see if fuel comes out.It should be under pressure.If not the most likely the pump isn't working.

Also check and make sure you have spark.
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nathanrazo
post Aug 31 2005, 09:31 PM
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To check if I have spark, I pull out the spark plug wire and put it near a ground?? I'm sorry but my knowledge is a little limited.
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Tech
post Sep 1 2005, 05:59 PM
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If you have a spare plug laying aroung remove the wire from the plug on the engine and plug the spare spark plug in and set it on ground and see if it sparks.
If you don't have a spare plug the set it by ground or use a screwdriver.
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nathanrazo
post Sep 1 2005, 10:11 PM
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i'm able to get the car started if i really hold down the accelerator but then it sputters and dies in a matter of seconds. the best i got it was able to move it from the street to the driveway. i got fuel coming from the valve. i do hear a whining noise under the hood but i think the noise is coming from the silver cylinder thing near the throttle body. even though i'm getting fuel up there by the injectors does that mean the fuel relay and or fuel pump is working?
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nathanrazo
post Sep 2 2005, 01:05 AM
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car turned on after i floored the accelerator and turned it over. running kind of rough and now i see the check engine light came on. so maybe an O2 sensor or something? i'll have to get the codes read.
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Mac_in_NewEnglan...
post Sep 3 2005, 03:12 PM
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Hey there,

As it turns out, I've got a similar issue on my '94 850...

During cold, damp whether, it has occasionally has had trouble starting, or staying running, especially about 5-10 minutes after a successful start. If I started it, drove the kids a mile to school, when I'd come back to drive back home, it wouldn't go. At the time it acted like wet wires/distributor.

Just yesterday(dry weather, this time), it didn't want to start, and I thought it was the same problem... It would turn over nicely, but no "rumbling to life". I thought "Well, maybe it's time to change that distributor, since I've got one on the shelf..."

Done. No joy.

I can smell gas out the tailpipe, so I'm assuming there is gas getting to the cylinders.

Changed the spark plugs. No joy.

Checked for spark by using a timing light per Haynes. I have spark (timing light flashes, not an actual spark) coming from HT coil (drivers-side, behind air-filter). I have spark going to each plug.

I then checked for error codes (again, per details in Haynes). Error code box/panel is right next to window-washing fluid tank. (Nathan, you can read the codes yourself, but I can't post all the instructions at the moment. Perhaps you can find a description here somewhere. Or buy the Volvo 850 manual from Haynes. It's not hard, but you will need to read them in the engine compartment).

Error codes were:

214 - RPM sensor signal absent intermittantly

324 - Camshaft position sensor signal absent intermittantly

Resent. Tried to start again. No joy. No new error codes.

I will try unplugging/plugging sensor connectors, see if that makes a difference.

Any suggestions are welcome.

I hope this is helpful, just as a reference point.

Mac


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chimera
post Sep 6 2005, 11:56 AM
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I had very similar symptoms when my MAF meter was failing. Clouds of black smoke coming out of my exhaust..sputtering, and dying. It all started with a slightly rough idle, and eventually became so bad that it would not idle at all. In my case, once the car started to sputter and die at idle it did throw out a code for the MAF meter.
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BECKHAM
post Sep 13 2005, 10:43 AM
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i have had the same problem in the past and it was my fuel pump. My mechanic said to go and beat on the gas tank from underneath and if it starts the pump is ok. Don't see how this can work though. Might give it a try?
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ampangbear
post Sep 14 2005, 11:17 PM
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Someone I know here had similar symptoms. Car runs for about less than 10 seconds and then dies.

After checking again, and again, they found that when they disconnected the IACV, the engine does not sputter and die.

Try checking this. Just check and see.

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ampangbear
post Sep 19 2005, 12:09 AM
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QUOTE(ampangbear @ Sep 15 2005, 12:17 PM)
Someone I know here had similar symptoms. Car runs for about less than 10 seconds and then dies.

After checking again, and again, they found that when they disconnected the IACV, the engine does not sputter and die.

Try checking this. Just check and see.
[right][snapback]15379[/snapback][/right]



Just to update on the above, the problem was actually the MAF, and not the IACV.

Thanks!
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ampangbear
post Sep 26 2005, 09:00 PM
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QUOTE(BECKHAM @ Sep 13 2005, 11:43 PM)
i have had the same problem in the past and it was my fuel pump. My mechanic said to go and beat on the gas tank from underneath and if it starts the pump is ok. Don't see how this can work though. Might give it a try?
[right][snapback]15253[/snapback][/right]



When he said 'BEAT', i hope he didn't mean with a metal rod or something like that.


:haha:
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ampangbear
post Sep 26 2005, 09:17 PM
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QUOTE(Mac_in_NewEngland @ Sep 4 2005, 04:12 AM)
Hey there,

As it turns out, I've got a similar issue on my '94 850...

During cold, damp whether, it has occasionally has had trouble starting, or staying running, especially about 5-10 minutes after a successful start.  If I started it, drove the kids a mile to school, when I'd come back to drive back home, it wouldn't go.  At the time it acted like wet wires/distributor.

Just yesterday(dry weather, this time), it didn't want to start, and I thought it was the same problem...  It would turn over nicely, but no "rumbling to life".  I thought "Well, maybe it's time to change that distributor, since I've got one on the shelf..."

Done.  No joy. 

I can smell gas out the tailpipe, so I'm assuming there is gas getting to the cylinders.

Changed the spark plugs.  No joy.

Checked for spark by using a timing light per Haynes.  I have spark (timing light flashes, not an actual spark) coming from HT coil (drivers-side, behind air-filter).  I have spark going to each plug.

I then checked for error codes (again, per details in Haynes).  Error code box/panel is right next to window-washing fluid tank.  (Nathan, you can read the codes yourself,  but I can't post all the instructions at the moment.  Perhaps you can find a description here somewhere.  Or buy the Volvo 850 manual from Haynes.  It's not hard, but you will need to read them in the engine compartment).

Error codes were:

214  -  RPM sensor signal absent intermittantly

324  -  Camshaft position sensor signal absent intermittantly

Resent.  Tried to start again.  No joy.  No new error codes.

I will try unplugging/plugging sensor connectors, see if that makes a difference.

Any suggestions are welcome. 

I hope this is helpful, just as a reference point.

Mac
[right][snapback]14658[/snapback][/right]




Hey, Mac!

Thanks for the input!
Any updates from your part?

Thanks!
:) :liebe011:
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