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> Engine Oil Stop Leak?, Has anyone ACTUALLY USED this stuff? If so, did it work?
newspeed3
post Apr 11 2012, 11:34 PM
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My 740 Turbo is hemmoraging oil and I can't afford to get it fixed as I've already spent a bunch of money so it would pass Air Care. I've already replaced the valve cover gasket, distributor housing seal, air, oil, and fuel filters, done an oil change and replaced the exhaust from the cat back. I'm about $1000 into this car that I got for $500 and I'm wondering if any of you have used engine oil stop leak with any success?
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danielm85948
post Apr 12 2012, 04:20 AM
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QUOTE (newspeed3 @ Apr 12 2012, 12:34 AM)
My 740 Turbo is hemmoraging oil and I can't afford to get it fixed as I've already spent a bunch of money so it would pass Air Care. I've already replaced the valve cover gasket, distributor housing seal, air, oil, and fuel filters, done an oil change and replaced the exhaust from the cat back. I'm about $1000 into this car that I got for $500 and I'm wondering if any of you have used engine oil stop leak with any success?

were is your oil leak, it may be your turbo seals are leaking take off the turbo bypass valve and check it for pin holes held on by three screws.
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Vermont
post Apr 12 2012, 02:15 PM
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I'd be very leery of using that stuff . . . . especially as it may clog up your Oil Filter.

"Stop Leak" could turn into "Stop Engine".

Weren't you going to use some kind of florescent dye to trace down the origin of the leak ?

Is it "hemorrhaging" oil worse now than when your Landlord owned it

Could it be internal ?
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newspeed3
post Apr 12 2012, 03:45 PM
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My landlord bought the car just to park in his driveway when he wasn't home so it just sat for a couple of years and I don't think he even drove it. The shop said the leak was the distributor housing seal and charged me $90 to replace it...they said there was some other small leaks but that one was the worst, but it didn't seem to make a difference...I took some pics today after going for a drive...the oil was leaking pretty steady from a bolt just below a small diameter hard line that looks to be JB welded. I know absolutely nothing about these cars so I'm not sure what I'm looking at. Oil also seems to be coming out of the oil cap which I'm told might been blow-by.
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Attached File  CIMG9260.JPG ( 4.13MB ) Number of downloads: 7
Attached File  CIMG9257.JPG ( 3.86MB ) Number of downloads: 7



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danielm85948
post Apr 12 2012, 06:25 PM
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QUOTE (newspeed3 @ Apr 12 2012, 04:45 PM)
My landlord bought the car just to park in his driveway when he wasn't home so it just sat for a couple of years and I don't think he even drove it. The shop said the leak was the distributor housing seal and charged me $90 to replace it...they said there was some other small leaks but that one was the worst, but it didn't seem to make a difference...I took some pics today after going for a drive...the oil was leaking pretty steady from a bolt just below a small diameter hard line that looks to be JB welded. I know absolutely nothing about these cars so I'm not sure what I'm looking at. Oil also seems to be coming out of the oil cap which I'm told might been blow-by.
Attached File  CIMG9262.JPG ( 3.99MB ) Number of downloads: 10
Attached File  CIMG9263.JPG ( 3.75MB ) Number of downloads: 8
Attached File  CIMG9260.JPG ( 4.13MB ) Number of downloads: 7
Attached File  CIMG9257.JPG ( 3.86MB ) Number of downloads: 7

think what you have is a blocked crankcase breather ,clean all the hoses of the crankcase breather system just google how to do that, it is on this site, on how to do this.
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newspeed3
post Apr 15 2012, 11:28 PM
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I'll look into it thanks...hopefully I don't have to put a tonne of money into it.
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newspeed3
post Apr 21 2012, 10:03 AM
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So I'm going to try to do this myself...can I just unbolt the intake manifold and pull it out of the way and do I have to de pressurize my fuel somehow first?
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danielm85948
post Apr 21 2012, 02:10 PM
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QUOTE (newspeed3 @ Apr 21 2012, 10:03 AM)
So I'm going to try to do this myself...can I just unbolt the intake manifold and pull it out of the way and do I have to de pressurize my fuel somehow first?

no you do not need to do any of that,just google cleaning crankcase breather system on a volvo 740 for details on what to do.
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Scouttah
post Apr 26 2012, 04:54 PM
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The crank case breather system is also referred to as the flame trap. It is located on the top of the motor back by the fire wall, there is a hose going from the top of the flame trap housing to the air intake hose. When the flame trap filter gets clogged it will cause crank case pressure to force oil out through the seals.
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newspeed3
post May 17 2012, 02:26 PM
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Replaced the oil separator, flame trap and hose with no results, so that is not my problem...it's hard to tell exactly where the leak is as there is oil all around the area in the pics.You can see a constant drip from under a hard line that goes into the engine that appears to have been repaired with JB Weld. It also looks like it could be coming from between the turbo and oil filter.
Attached File  CIMG9288.JPG ( 4.14MB ) Number of downloads: 4
Attached File  CIMG9274.JPG ( 4.19MB ) Number of downloads: 6
Attached File  CIMG9269.JPG ( 3.82MB ) Number of downloads: 3

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danielm85948
post May 17 2012, 04:21 PM
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QUOTE (newspeed3 @ May 17 2012, 03:26 PM)
Replaced the oil separator, flame trap and hose with no results, so that is not my problem...it's hard to tell exactly where the leak is as there is oil all around the area in the pics.You can see a constant drip from under a hard line that goes into the engine that appears to have been repaired with JB Weld. It also looks like it could be coming from between the turbo and oil filter.
Attached File  CIMG9288.JPG ( 4.14MB ) Number of downloads: 4
Attached File  CIMG9274.JPG ( 4.19MB ) Number of downloads: 6
Attached File  CIMG9269.JPG ( 3.82MB ) Number of downloads: 3

that pipe should run from the bottom of your turbo,if it does then it is the oil return pipe,on the end of that pipe going into your crankcase is an o ring ,cost in the UK from Volvo dealer only part, is £4 ,i had to fit mine ,when I repaired my turbo ,the O ring goes on the return pipe ,then i pushed the pipe into the crankcase as I fitted the turbo,with the turbo in place ,push the O ring down with the flat of a screwdriver,to the bottom of the pipe,and into the crankcase,not pushing it in, only down .
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newspeed3
post May 17 2012, 09:38 PM
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Jacked up the car and checked that return line out. Turns out that silver stuff is some sort of rubbery glue or something as I was able to peel a piece off...I'm afraid of what's underneath...hope that line isn't snapped off in the block.
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danielm85948
post May 18 2012, 08:02 AM
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QUOTE (newspeed3 @ May 17 2012, 10:38 PM)
Jacked up the car and checked that return line out. Turns out that silver stuff is some sort of rubbery glue or something as I was able to peel a piece off...I'm afraid of what's underneath...hope that line isn't snapped off in the block.

it will be the seal on the end do not try to bend that pipe to refit it,try just loosen the two top bolts under the turbo and pull out that pipe from the crankcase get a new o ring to fit first,place on the end of that pipe if you can and do i have said to fit ,do not take out both of the bolt all the way out as it is very hard to refit.
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newspeed3
post May 22 2012, 08:37 PM
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Peeled off whatever gunk they tried to fix it with, started the car and sure enough, this is where the oil is spraying from. There isn't a Volvo dealer anywhere nearby so I'm thinking about replacing the return line with an aftermarket braided line. The cost is about $40 shipping included. Would it be easier to fit the line to the turbo and then re-install it? If so, how do you separate the turbo? I removed the clamp in the middle but can't seem to break it free. I don't want to try to do it from under the car as I only have a jack and want to be under there as little as possible. I also noticed that the boost actuator wasn't connected. Thanks for the help.

This post has been edited by newspeed3: May 22 2012, 09:04 PM
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danielm85948
post May 23 2012, 04:14 AM
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QUOTE (newspeed3 @ May 22 2012, 09:37 PM)
Peeled off whatever gunk they tried to fix it with, started the car and sure enough, this is where the oil is spraying from. There isn't a Volvo dealer anywhere nearby so I'm thinking about replacing the return line with an aftermarket braided line. The cost is about $40 shipping included. Would it be easier to fit the line to the turbo and then re-install it? If so, how do you separate the turbo? I removed the clamp in the middle but can't seem to break it free. I don't want to try to do it from under the car as I only have a jack and want to be under there as little as possible. I also noticed that the boost actuator wasn't connected. Thanks for the help.

yes it is better to remove the turbo ,and fit the pipe in the crankcase but push your new oil seal on the return pipe before you refit the turbo, clean your impeller it will have a lot of carbon on it ,it will run better,to remove the turbo from the car soak it over night, spray WD 40 or something like that,then you will need a rubber mallet to hit the turbo, and get it moving to remove it,you must fit a new oil seal on the return pipe ,before you push it into the crankcase, as i have said already.but remember to fit your actuator ,you need a locking washer to do that,so all you need is an oil return pipe seal on the end of your pipe and an locking washer to fit your actuator ,so a cheap fix, but both those parts are dealer only parts so get them first,get them by post.

This post has been edited by danielm85948: May 23 2012, 04:23 AM
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newspeed3
post May 25 2012, 01:10 PM
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Successfully got the turbo apart and ordered the o-ring from Volvo...should come today or tomorrow. However, they have no listing for the washer/nut that holds the actuator linkage on...going to have to hunt around for something that works. After everything is assembled and I'm ready to start the car again, do I have to make sure that I put oil in the turbo first? Thanks.
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danielm85948
post May 25 2012, 04:13 PM
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QUOTE (newspeed3 @ May 25 2012, 02:10 PM)
Successfully got the turbo apart and ordered the o-ring from Volvo...should come today or tomorrow. However, they have no listing for the washer/nut that holds the actuator linkage on...going to have to hunt around for something that works. After everything is assembled and I'm ready to start the car again, do I have to make sure that I put oil in the turbo first? Thanks.

no, your oil from your sump, goes through your oil pump and oil ways the oil is for your bearings in the turbo only, then down into that return pipe into the sump,your linkage is a small stud, and a clip is then pushed over it, locking it in place, get volvo to look at the part again, as it is not a washer /nut but a stud and a locking washer that is pushed over the stud,or get one from an auto breakers.be sure to clean your impeller of carbon ,it will run better, just clean it.turn your engine over , don't rev it up,to give time for the oil to get to the turbo,about 20 seconds should be ok.

This post has been edited by danielm85948: May 25 2012, 04:18 PM
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newspeed3
post May 25 2012, 08:08 PM
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I will call them again and see if they can try a little harder. The o-ring came today and I replaced it (putting a small tear in it while pushing it down with a screwdriver) Started the car up and no oil leak as it idled. Good, I thought until a hard run around the block made it spew oil again. I already ordered another o-ring from Volvo earlier today but my question is this: do I push the o-ring into the block and then push the return pipe down hoping it seats properly or do I put the o-ring on the return pipe and then push it down into the block. I did it the second way but had a hell of a time getting the o-ring in good enough. I'm not sure if I put it it wrong or the tear in the o-ring is making it leak or both. Thanks.
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danielm85948
post May 25 2012, 09:27 PM
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QUOTE (newspeed3 @ May 25 2012, 09:08 PM)
I will call them again and see if they can try a little harder. The o-ring came today and I replaced it (putting a small tear in it while pushing it down with a screwdriver) Started the car up and no oil leak as it idled. Good, I thought until a hard run around the block made it spew oil again. I already ordered another o-ring from Volvo earlier today but my question is this: do I push the o-ring into the block and then push the return pipe down hoping it seats properly or do I put the o-ring on the return pipe and then push it down into the block. I did it the second way but had a hell of a time getting the o-ring in good enough. I'm not sure if I put it it wrong or the tear in the o-ring is making it leak or both. Thanks.

no you push the o ring on to your pipe by hand as for as it will go,then place that pipe in the hole of the crankcase,when it is in,you then fit the turbo,but when you do so there is a small pin that fits in the hole on the rim of your turbo, check for that hole,you will see the pin ,that pin must go in the hole to line up the turbo,before the clamp is fitted,check the return pipe is still in the crankcase ,push the pipe in the crankcase,leave the seal the now,dont push it down yet,as you must then fit your clamp,tighten it,when it is tight,only then are you ready,to push your seal down into the crankcase,use the flat of your screwdriver,not the sharp part ,you go all the way round the seal,pushing it down ,with the flat of the screwdriver,never the point of it.
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newspeed3
post Jun 1 2012, 02:50 PM
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Seemed to slow the leak to no more than the odd drop but could just be residual as there was oil everywhere...now my problem with the actuator is that Volvo can't order the spring clip separately...I would have to order a new actuator for more than $500 which is what I paid for the car...to be having a problem like this that is caused by a 50 cent piece of metal is extremely frustrating...does anyone know where to even source one of these? Google searches are turning up nothing.
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