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> C/v Axle Removing Instructions.
Tech
post Aug 20 2005, 03:22 PM
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First jack up the car safely and put on jackstands.Then remove the wheel.Remove the nut on the end of the Axle which you will need a 32mm socket I beleive.Next Remove the outer tierod.Which I think is a 18mm.Then remove the bolt for the lower balljoint.You will need a 15mm socket and a 13mm wrench.Also it will help if you remove the sway bar link.It will also help some if you undo the ABS sensor wire from its holders.Then push down on the lower control arm to remove the lower balljoint from the hub.Then pull out on the hub to back the axle out of the hub.Once that is done then you can remove the axle.The drivers side you can use a screw driver and put it between the axle and the trans. to pop the axle out. The passenger side(rightside of car) you will need to remove the support bracket that holds the axle in.It is 2 12mm bolts.Then the axle will slide out.


Hope this helps someone.
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ampangbear
post Aug 21 2005, 09:44 PM
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QUOTE(Tech @ Aug 21 2005, 04:22 AM)
...Remove the nut on the end of the Axle which you will need a 32mm socket I beleive....[right][snapback]13867[/snapback][/right]




Thanks, Tech. I think in mine, i used the 36 socket.
Anyway, are the instructions similar to the rear axles?
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Tech
post Aug 22 2005, 06:36 PM
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No the rear Axles are a totaly different MONSTER!!
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ampangbear
post Aug 23 2005, 04:44 AM
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I got the re-installation procedures for the front too, but none on the rear ones.... Well, if you take them out, you'd definitely want to slide them in back, right? :lol:

A friend gave it to me, but since I have yet to tried it myself, sorry no photos. :)
:beer:

---------------------

Here goes:-

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Removal
1) Raise and support front of vehicle. Remove front wheels. Remove ABS sensor from steering member, but leave electrical connector connected. Loosen brake line bracket and ABS wiring. Unhook bracket and let it hang free. Remove split pin from hub center nut. Hold hub and remove drive shaft center nut.

2) Remove link arm from anti-roll bar. Remove nuts securing suspension arm to ball joint. Remove suspension arm from ball joint. If removing right drive shaft, remove splash guard from under engine. Twist and remove MacPherson strut. Tap on drive shaft end with plastic hammer and remove drive shaft from hub. Clean hub-drive shaft splines of metal glue.

3) On right drive shaft, remove bearing cap from drive shaft support bearing. Using care to avoid damage to drive shaft seal and boot, remove drive shaft from gearbox. On left drive shaft, use Lever (999 5462) to apply leverage between gearbox and inside of drive shaft. Using care to avoid damage to drive shaft seal and boot, remove drive shaft from gearbox.



Disassembly

1) Remove clips from outer boot. Remove outer boot from outer CV joint. Wipe grease from outer CV joint. Clamp drive shaft in vise with gap in circlip at top. Open circlip to free it from groove. Insert an 8 mm diameter drift between circlip lugs. Tap inner race a few times along shaft to hold circlip open. Use a brass drift and tap CV joint off shaft.
NOTE: To avoid damaging cage or outer race, tap inner race only.

2) Remove clips from inboard boot and slide both boots off shaft. Ensure grease inside joints is not contaminated by water or dirt. For reassembly reference, scribe positions of outer race, cage, and inner race in CV joint.

3) For reassembly reference, mark location where balls will first be removed. Tilt inner race and cage and remove balls one at a time, moving in a clockwise direction. Put balls in order so they can be installed in original location. Rotate inner race 90 degrees relative to cage. Remove inner race. Remove circlip from inner race.

4) Remove clips from inner boot. Slide boot off inner universal joint. On manual transmission vehicles, use a rag and remove grease from inboard universal joint. Mount drive shaft in a vise, with gap in circlip facing upward. Open circlip to free it from groove and insert an 8 mm drift between circlip lugs. Tap inner race a few times along shaft to hold circlip open. Using a brass drift, tap inner universal joint off shaft.

5) On automatic transmission vehicles, mark position of drive shaft relative to joint housing. Pry up tabs on housing and remove spider from housing. On all vehicles, if support bearing requires replacement, place unit in a press and press circlip and support bearing off shaft.



Reassembly

1) Thoroughly clean all CV joint parts. On manual transmission vehicles, clean inner universal joint in place as it cannot be disassembled. On automatic transmission vehicles, spider can be left on end of shaft. On all vehicles, if any part shows signs of cracking or scoring, entire CV joint assembly must be replaced.
NOTE: Slight scoring or pitting in races is acceptable.

2) Press on new support bearing and circlip. Ensure support bearing is installed against the stop. On manual transmission vehicles, Install new circlip in inner universal joint. Pack joint with grease. Ensure boot is okay. If boot is not okay, go to next step.

3) For manual transmission vehicles, go to step 4). For automatic transmission vehicles, mark spider in relation to drive shaft mark. Remove circlip. Press spider off shaft. Remove boot from shaft. Install new boot on shaft. Line up spider with mark made previously, ensuring bevelled side of spider goes in first. Ensure drive shaft is kept straight when applying pressure to spider with press. Install new circlip. Lubricate needle bearings on spider using thin lubricating oil. Pack bearing housing with grease.

4) For manual transmission vehicles, mount outboard drive shaft in a vise, ensuring inner race is square inside joint. Tap shaft into joint, ensuring circlip is properly seated in groove. Pack remaining grease into joint, using care not to get any grease on part of boot that makes contact with joint. Clean off all excess grease. Slide boot over joint, ensuring it is correctly positioned on shaft.
Install new circlip on boot.

5) For all vehicles, install new circlip in inner race and place race inside cage. Line up scored marks and put first ball in position. Turn inner race and cage. Put balls back in their original position, one at a time.

6) Thoroughly lubricate joint. Apply grease to back of joint through opening for shaft in inner race. If joint has not been dismantled, remove old circlip and replace. Mount shaft in vise and slide new boot onto shaft. Install CV joint on shaft, ensuring inner race is square inside joint. Use a plastic hammer and tap joint onto shaft. Ensure circlip sits correctly in its groove.

7) Apply remaining grease to inner race and cage. Use care to not get any grease on part of boot that comes in contact with joints. Wipe off excess grease with mineral spirits. Slide boot over joints, ensuring they are correctly positioned on shaft. Install new circlip on boot.



Installation

1) For right drive shaft installation, install bearing cap and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 N.m). For left drive shaft installation, ensure ABS sensor wheel on drive shaft is free of dirt. Push drive shaft in so it engages with differential. Ensure drive shaft circlip snaps into place. Use care not to damage gearbox seals or bellows.

2) Apply Metal Glue (1161370-0) to drive shaft splines. Use a socket wrench to hold suspension arm down. Twist and remove MacPherson strut and insert drive shaft into hub. Oil new drive shaft center nut threads and flange. Hand tighten new drive shaft center nut. Using new nuts, install suspension arm to ball joint.
NOTE: Ensure ball joint and suspension arm faces are clean and free of grease.

3) Tighten nuts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 N.m), plus an additional 120 degrees. Apply rust proofing to area between ball joint, suspension arm, and nuts. Using new nuts, install suspension arm to anti-roll bar. Tighten nuts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 N.m). Tighten center nut to 80 ft. lbs (120 N.m), plus an additional 120 degrees. Lock drive shaft center nut by using a chisel and tapping nut locking flange into drive shaft slot.

4) Install brake line bracket and ABS cable, ensuring ABS sensor is perfectly clean. Tighten ABS sensor to 7 ft. lbs. (10 N.m). Ensure brake disc and pad surfaces are clean. Lubricate hub center locating pin in front of pad with Rust Proofing Agent (1161038-3). Install, but do not tighten, lug nuts. Tighten lug nuts in opposite pairs to 81 ft. lbs. (110 N.m).

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS TABLE
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
ABS Sensor ........................................ 7 (10)
Bearing Cap ...................................... 18 (25)
Lug Nuts ........................................ 81 (110)
Suspension Arm Nuts .......................... (1) 13 (18)
Suspension Arm To Anti-Roll Bar .................. 37 (50)
Suspension Arm To Anti-Roll Bar Center Nut .. (1) 80 (120)
(1) - Tighten an additional 120 degrees.




:banana: :banana: :banana:
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Icepick
post Dec 8 2005, 01:24 PM
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Tech,

My front wheel makes clicking sounds when I turn sharp at slow speeds, is thet the CV joint?? If it is I was going to bring it in to your shop, whats an estimate on having the joints replaced, I saw an axle assembly price (reman) for $93.00 whats labor like?
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Login:nandrews
post May 13 2006, 02:47 PM
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Hi All,

I'm looking to replace the CV Drive axle on my front left side. I've got a manual trans. and i'm having trouble selecting the right part- does anyone know if the axle is the same for manuals and autos?

I'm replacing the steering rack at the same time and i'm wondering if it makes since to do anything else at the same time- end links or bushings maybe?

Thanks!
Nathan
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ampangbear
post May 14 2006, 08:58 PM
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You could try asking the parts clerk. They know a lot of things.

If your links and bushings are worn, broken or torn, then you should replace them as well. If not, let them be...

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1996850turbo
post Oct 4 2006, 12:11 AM
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Hi,

I went ahead and replaced the whole shaft (drivers side). I put new hub, brake pads, and rotor as well. I had my chest out and was so proud of myself.. but I started to see transmission oil dripping out. Not just little bit but it continues to drip out. I had to place a can underneath it as it was getting dark and I had to stop. Did I do something wrong?
Maybe I did not push in the new shaft all the way in. This is on the drivers side by the way. I have pulled out the old one on the passenger side but now I am afraid to finish it off until I can get some enlightenment from y'all out there. Please please tell me I did not do any real damage and this can be fixed by redoing it properly???

Thank you.
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Tech
post Dec 2 2006, 10:39 AM
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Most likely the Axle isn't seated all the way.
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rcrouse
post Jan 5 2008, 02:09 PM
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I'm preparing to replace both the left and right axle assemblies as both outer CV boots are shot, on a 93 850 automatic. Does the transmission fluid stay for this procedure or do I need to flush the system first and refill when complete?

Also, I notice I have a transmisson fluid leak (red fluid drops on the driveway). Any thoughts on what I should look at?

Many thanks, Rich
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Tech
post Jan 5 2008, 06:24 PM
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Usually the tranny fluid will stay in.
Sometimes some will leak out.

Inspect the seals where the axles go in before removing them. See if that is where the leak is coming from.
If not then it might be the gold looking cover on the front of the tranny.
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rcrouse
post Jan 13 2008, 11:48 AM
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Thanks for the tips. Also I just checked the fluid level of the automatic transmission fluid and mine is way overfull. I'm a good inch beyond the dipstick mark for max. Could this be why I'm leaking auto transmission fluid? Is there a transmission fluid drain? If so, should I drain a bit to get the level correct and see if the leak goes away?
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ampangbear
post Jan 13 2008, 08:47 PM
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It is important to not overfill the transmission fluid. Underfilling it is a big NO-no as well.

Yes, there is a big plug at the bottom most part of the trans that you could bleed the ATF out from. But careful doing it, as chances are you'd leak out more than you have to.

Another way is to use the suction thing to suck the ATF out from the dipstick chute.
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sleigher
post Mar 22 2008, 02:02 PM
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Hey all

Not trying to hijack the thread but I just got through doing this job on my 1996 850 turbo wagon. I did both sides of the front CV axle shafts. Everything seemed to go fine except I broke one of my end links and had to get a new one.

The when I went to drive the car I found the real problem. When I shifted to gear I just hear the sound of gears rubbing and it doesn't engage. Today I am checking the driver side and it seems that the shaft is all the way in and there is no space. Everything seems right.

Is the driver side the drive side from the differential? Or the passenger side?

Any other clues you guys might have as to what I missed and why the drive gears aren't engaging?

Thanks

--
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haydenm315
post May 17 2008, 03:14 PM
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I'm trying to replace a cv. I'm going through hell seperating the balljoint from the control arm... "Then push down on the lower control arm to remove the lower balljoint from the hub." Yeah right.. with me and what army? I'm struggling here.
Suggestions?
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Tech
post May 17 2008, 05:01 PM
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Sometimes they can be a major pain.
If all else fails you can take the 2 screws from the hub to strut then fold the hub down and work the Axle out.
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haydenm315
post May 17 2008, 06:40 PM
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Finally got it. I took the whack the control arm with a pole sitting on it approach..

Take a pipe or solid shaft - (the one I used was around 14 inches) and place it on the top of the A-Arm closer to the wheel end that the frame end. Have the other end of the pipe or shaft up above the brakes where you can tap on it with a big hammer. Be careful not to bang on your brake lines or the fender. With somewhere between 10 and 1,000 whacks to the top of your old a-arm the ball joint shaft should slide down out of the area that is clamping it in. You may try to open up the clamp area with a pry bar just a little if you are having trouble getting it out. If you removed the bolt and can see through the hole you should be okay.

Then remove the two bolts at frame end of the car. A few whacks with your big hammer and the whole thing will drop down. Again only whack on the A-Arm - not your paint or brake lines or forehead.

Now you have accomplished something. I hope you don't need to drive anywhere right now.
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ampangbear
post May 19 2008, 10:33 PM
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I was too tired to DIY, so i had my friend (a full-time mech) to do my CV boot replacement - BOTH were torn with grease ALLover - i think we just pushed the thing down a bit and it came loose.

In anycase, if your got stuck, put a solid bar of wood underneath the a-arm, high enough so that the arm wont travel too far downwards and hurt the bushings by the end it stops.

If needed to, it may be a good idea to whack it down with a rubber mallet first.

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Volvoanthensga
post Oct 23 2008, 08:05 PM
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I am replacing the outer cv-joint boot on my 94 850 wagon as it has a small tear. So I am taking out the drive axle. It is on the drivers side and I have a manual transmission. I have followed the instruction in my Hayens manual and have had no problem until the last step, removing the drive axle from the transmission. I see on this thread that the instructions are the same in my Haynes manual, leverage a screwdriver between the inner cv joint and the transmission housing. I have done this and have even tried a smallish crow-bar. I end up rocking the trasmission slightly but the drive axle is not coming out. I have tried and stopped to think, change angles and positioning for a few hours now and I have given up. Any advice from people who have done this. Is there a certain angle or place my screw drive should be inbetween the cv joint and the transmission housing. How hard was this step for you?
Any response will be appreciated.
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ampangbear
post Oct 23 2008, 10:43 PM
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I did a try on mine just a month ago, and it was a lot easier to get it out than to put it back in. (Actually not that difficult, just a little pushing helped...)

And as i mentioned, it slid right out, with just a little pulling.

From your description, i think you may want to use either a rubber mallet to knock the teeth at the end of the shaft a little to come loose, or you can use a metal hammer, but dont go crazy with it.

Sometimes, it can get stuck due to many reasons.

Would you think that'll help?
I have an auto tranny, and thus far, my experience relates to an auto tranny. AM not sure if in the manual tranny there is a lock somewhat.

Can you tell from visual? A pic, perhaps?

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