:right:


The tools that you may need are:-

1) 3-Tonne Jack
2) Fixed Lifter-Holder (to hold the car up when working)
3) Socket number 10 (depending on the nuts)
4) Socket number 7 (depending on the nuts)
5) Needle-nose pliers
6) Common pliers
7) Face-Mask
8) Basin to collect the coolants from spilling allover
9) Other common tools...

:grouphug:

Items 1 and 2 above are as preferred.
Items 3 and 4 above are as needed, depending on the type of radiator you may have.
Items 5, 6 and 9 above are also as needed.
Items 7 and 8 for protective reasons.


Materials:-

1) Coolants (Your choice of matter - whether anti-rust, anti-boil, anti-freeze, etc) --> 3 litres
2) Battery Water --> 3 litres
3) Patience

:57:

Step 1
Jack the front of car up and place the fixed holders at the right spots. (Note: Improperly placing them may cause fatal injuries!)


Step 2
From the front of the car, go under and remove the bottom cover for the radiator . There are only two screws (size 10) where one is each on the end of the cover. Remove the screws first. Once done, slide the cover slowly out. There is a slide latch in the middle of the cover, so you may need to push it inwards to free up the latch. Work this slowly and carefully.


Step 3
Once step 2 is executed, get up and make sure the expansion tank cap is tight . You do not want the coolant to gush out and spill onto and allover your face! Be careful. Some people cannot withstand the little odour the coolant releases. Wear face-masks for this purpose.


Step 4
Go back under and disconnect the radiator hose. This is the bottom hose. Take note that some Volvos have radiator 'plugs' which are made of rubber. Remove the plug using a coin, and not screwdriver to avoid damaging the plug head. Keep the plug in a safe place.

Do this slowly and make sure no coolant is spilled over your face. Prepare a basin to collect all the coolants. Dispose the used coolants responsibly. You could also check with your mechanic, and bring the used coolant to the workshop and get their help to dispose of it.


Step 5
You can remove the expansion tank cap now. You would notice that the speed of the flow of the coolant below could go faster now.


Step 6
Remove the top connection to the radiator.


Step 7
You could take this opportunity to clean the expansion tank as well. Remove the expansion tank by pulling it upwards firmly but slowly. Remove the sensor switch. Remove the sensor as well, and keep it in a safe place while you work on the tank. Disconnect the top small hose and the bottom bigger hose as well.


Step 8
Insert your water source (tap-hose preferred for running water) into the top hole of the radiator. Let it run for 2 minutes while you wiggle through the radiator to get water to more places within. Visually inspect the dirt that exits via the bottom hole.


Step 9
Once done, leave it for a minute.


Step 10
Go back under the car, and reconnect the bottom hose to the radiator, or re-plug the radiator. Make sure the seal is tight - you could easily cause a permanent damage to the engine if the coolant bleeds out without you noticing it.


Step 11
Reconnect the top hose as well. Make sure the seal is tight - you could easily cause a permanent damage to the engine if the coolant bleeds out without you noticing it.


Step 12
Reconnect the expansion tank. Make sure the seal is tight - you could easily cause a permanent damage to the engine if the coolant bleeds out without you noticing it.


Step 13
Begin pouring in the coolant first. Put just a litre and a half into the expansion tank .


Step 14
Begin pouring in the battery water next. Put just a litre and a half into the expansion tank .


Step 15
Start the engine and let it idle, but be watchful of the level. Do not put the lid on yet. Once it breaches the 'Max' level and you could see some big air bubbles emerge, shut the engine off. This may cause the coolants to overspill. Prepare some rags to absorb the spilled coolants. This process is necessary as it ensures there are no bubbles in the hosing which could be damaging to the engine.


Step 16
Wait 5 minutes for it to cool down. Top up the loss of the liquids with the remaining coolant and battery water.


Step 17
Repeat Step 15 again.


Step 18
Close the lid tightly.


Step 19
Inspect all hose and check for leakages.


Step 20
Start your engine again, and drive the car for a few miles . All the while, always inspect your temperature gauge on the dashboard and make sure it doesn't overheat. Bring the remaining coolant and battery water in the car as well, just in case you need them.


Step 21
If it does overheat, stop the car immediately and look for the problem. Top up with the remaining coolant and battery water is necessary.


Step 22
Check all connections and make sure there are no small noticeable leakages again. Spend the next 2 or 3 drives doing this, just to be sure.


Step 23
If everything is OK, then you are ALL SET!
:)

I'll try to add some photos into this, assuming the uploading function is working great!

:)



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More, for now, I do believe the uploading function is not so great today. Thanks.

:grin:

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:)



:beer:

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Hopefully this is the LAST...





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is there a block drain on the back of the block also

Yes there is one on the back of the block.It is usually easier to just drain it from the radiator.

Careful with the 'plug'. Remember to use a coin and not a screwdriver. I'd disconnect the bottom connecting hose to the radiator which is a lot easier and assured.

I just got a nice tip from someone, drop in just a spoonful of those ph-neutral detergents into the expansion-tank, and run the car for about 50 kms or so.

Drain it, then run the tap water in the system to clean the residue.

And for better effects, in the next fill, use battery-water in substitute of tap-water, to dilute the coolant.

Distilled (battery) water is preferable to tap water for use in automotive cooling systems. The minerals and ions typically found in tap water can be corrosive to internal engine components, and can cause a more rapid depletion of the anti-corrosion additives found in most antifreeze formulations.

Extracted from wikipedia.

:)

Water from a dehumidifier is essentially the same thing. Brew up a few litres before you flush your rad. I usually keep a few old washer fluid containers full...

Except dehumidifier water is full of bacteria.

HI I
JUST READ YOUR VERY WELL EXPLAINED RADIATOR FLUSHING THANKS.
I'LL NEED TO DO THAT SOON.
I WONDER HAVE YOU GOT THE SAME TYPE OF ADVICE FOR CHANGING MY GASKET I HAVE A BEAUTIFUL RED SHINY 96 DL 850 2.5 5 CYLINDER AUDI ENGINE
WHICH HAPPENS TO BE HER REGISTRATION NUMBER AS WELL 96 DL 850
I'D HATE TO LOSE HER AND CAN'T AFFORD THE GARAGE RIGHT NOW.
AND AM PREPARED TO TACKLE IT MYSELF BUT NEED PLENTY OF ADVICE
I JUST BOUGHT A CD MANUAL FROM EBAY BUT NO TDI'S ON IT
ALL INFO GRATEFULLY RECIEVED
TARA
THANKS IN ADVANCE

Your query answered in the other thread.

Thanks

Just completed some radiator work myself. I removed the radiator for a reverse flush and inspection. When doing so found that the one radiator mounting bolts were rusted to the threads of the mount, which easily broke and spun. After drilling out the bolts I remounted the radiator with a new nut and bolt. The other mounted nut I broke off with hardly a twist with a pair of pliers. I suggest that if one removes that radiator to go ahead and replace the bolts and mounted nuts with ones that you can get a wrench on both sides to save the aggregation of having to disassemble most of the front end to drill out the bolts.

Hey, thanks for the tip!
:)