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> Replacement Of Engine Oil Cooler Lines, Lessons Learned
post Mar 25 2010, 06:45 PM
Post #1


Group: Members
Posts: 11
Joined: 18-January 10
Member No.: 67,756
Status: Offline
Location: Texas
Drives: 1998 V70 T5

While doing a survey from below my 98 V70 T-5, I traced an oil leak back to one of the oil cooler lines. I wiped it down, had another look in a few days, it was leaking at the same spot, between the hose and the metal ferrule.

I did some research to see what I was up against, and ordered the parts. He're some tips:

  1. This job is a major PITA, and an oily one at that if you're not careful. You must be sure to not pinch any o-rings, otherwise they'll leak and you'll have to do it all over again. I also took the time to wipe down greasy, grimey parts, and clean up the mess.
  2. I picked up an oil absorbent pad at a marine store for one dollar which worked great. (Wish I'd thought of this before on other jobs . . .)
  3. An assortment of 1/4" drive extensions of various lengths, flexible adapters, u-joints, etc. are most helpful.
  4. Only resulted in a minimum loss of oil ~ 1/2 cup when I removed the OTH from the block.
  5. I don't see how anyone removes the T30 holding the lines to the oil thermostat housing (OTH), without removing the OTH first. My hats off to those who do!
  6. I removed the elusive 10mm bolt holding the lines to the engine block using a very short handled, short-throw mini ratchet.
  7. Be careful installing the new OTH o-ring! Very easy to FUBAR.
  8. Be sure to disconnect the neg. battery cable! I caused a large POP when installing the new lines from the top, shorting the metal pipe against something.
  9. I sprayed down/wiped off the OTH on my bench, being careful to not get any carb cleaner inside. Removed the green o-rings with a hooked dental pick and cleaned out the recesses with Q-tips.
  10. Removing the old hoses required quite a bit of pulling, twisting, and finageling. I seriously thought of cutting the old ones in half to make it easier.
  11. Watch out for greasy dirt getting into the OTH, block, new o-rings, new lines, etc.
  12. I didn't have any problems inserting the new metal oil lines into the OTH. Oil them first. Gentle rocking action. I zip-tied the two lines together close to the oil filter to keep them from shifting. Installed a new oil line flange, but the old one was fine after cleaning off the crud.
  13. The new hoses from Volvo come with green o-rings on one end, and new black o-rings, clear washers and new clamps on the other.
  14. Snap-ring pliers work great for expanding the metal collars where the lines attach to the radiator. I backed these up with nylon zip-ties.
  15. I had trouble reinstalling the elusive 10mm bolt to the engine block. I used a bit of blu-tack to hold the bolt head in the socket. At first I thought I got extremely lucky as my ratchet was clicking away. Then I discovered it was getting too tight before the head fully seated so I stopped. Didn't want to strip it. Tried again. No joy. So I left it off for now. The next project is the PCV system and I figured I'd have a better shot at it with the intake manifold out of the way. I temporarily zip-tied the upper line to the power steering line for support.
  16. I started the car to check for leaks with the pass wheel still off and the car still up on jack stands. I let it idle for ~15 minutes until the temp gauge was horizontal and the OTH was warm to the touch. No green o-ring leaks. No rectangular OTH leaks either. No leaks from either radiator fitting either. Success! VERY glad to be done with this one . . .

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