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> Changing Front Wheel Hub? How Hard Diy?
fender1234
post Feb 21 2010, 09:29 PM
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Hey guys,
Having a tough time finding info on this
How hard is it to replace whole front wheel hub assembly on 2005 S40 2.4I?

Any info or DIY link with pics would be great
Thanks!

Franky.
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NigelS40
post Feb 26 2010, 01:33 PM
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I have tried twice to do the same job! It is easy until you get to the strut tower and ball joints. I cant get past either one of those points. Mine is grinding loudly even on strait aways now! Good Luck
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marshmallow11
post Apr 14 2010, 11:06 PM
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its fairly easy with the right tools but can be difficult if you don't know what you're doing. having your car on a hoist is key. Ill give you a basic rundown step by step as far as i can remember since i haven't done one in a while
- remove the wheel
- remove the axle nut
- remove the brake caliper assembly (2 bolts at the back and slide off)
- remove the brake rotor > small bolt on the face keeps it in place so don't hammer the crap out of it wondering why it wont come off lol
- unbolt the wheel bearing/hub assembly from the back of the wheel assembly
- you may need to use a puller or slide hammer to remove the wheel bearing/hub from the wheel assembly
* as far as i can remember the wheel bearing on an s40 is the studded type and does not have a seal on the inside which needs to be greased with the grease supplied but it may so you will need to check this before installing or the seal will get ripped*
- install the new wheel bearing by splining it with the axle shaft and threading the bolts in at the back then tightening them up bit by bit evenly so that the wheel bearing/hub goes in the wheel assembly straight
- reinstall the brake rotor and retaining bolt
- reinstall the brake caliper
- install the axle nut
- double check all bolts are tight > with parts such as these the tighter the better, within reason, you shouldn't be able to snap any bolts they are all quite large and durable
- put the wheel back on and torque to spec

hope this helps!
fyi you dont need to remove the strut or ball joint =) i never have while working for volvo =)
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tam85
post Jun 12 2010, 02:08 AM
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heres another one on how to replace front wheel hub assembly. got this from ehow site. hope this will also help.

Removing the Steering Knuckle
# The steering knuckle should be removed in a logical order. It is attached to the rest of the suspension by the ball joints, the tie rod end and the drive axle nut.
The first step in the process is removal of the axle nut. Removal of this nut requires a long breaker bar or air-powered impact gun. When using the breaker bar method, have someone hold the brakes while you loosen the axle nut. This prevents the vehicle from moving and possibly falling off the jack.

Continue removing the steering knuckle by removing the tie rod end; this allows easy movement of the steering knuckle for access to the remaining fasteners.

Once the axle nut and tie rod are removed, the ball joints can be removed. The preferred order is the lower ball joint first because this allows you to slip the axle out of the hub. The upper ball joint can then be released, and the steering knuckle comes out easily.

Where to Get the Bearing Pressed In
# Since the bearing is a pressed-in unit, a trip to the local auto parts store or repair shop may be in order. There, they will remove the lock rings and press the old bearing out with a hydraulic press. Then they'll clean and lube the surfaces, and press the new bearing in to the steering knuckle and the hub back into the new bearing.
Making the first stop at the auto parts store can save running around time. The charge for pressing in the bearing could be lower if you purchase the bearing there, and even if they don't offer the service, they will know who does.
Reinstalling the Steering Knuckle

# Reinstalling the steering knuckle, with the new bearing installed, is a reverse order procedure. Start with the upper ball joint, then reinsert the axle and install on the lower ball joint. The key to making this procedure go smoothly is to clean and grease the splines on the axle and hub so they slide together easily.
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grendel1960
post Jun 12 2010, 09:26 AM
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As all the above, but I would add a good brand of penetrating oil (not WD 40)
Grendel
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dfagan261
post Mar 6 2012, 02:02 PM
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QUOTE (marshmallow11 @ Apr 14 2010, 11:06 PM)
its fairly easy with the right tools but can be difficult if you don't know what you're doing. having your car on a hoist is key. Ill give you a basic rundown step by step as far as i can remember since i haven't done one in a while
- remove the wheel
- remove the axle nut
- remove the brake caliper assembly (2 bolts at the back and slide off)
- remove the brake rotor > small bolt on the face keeps it in place so don't hammer the crap out of it wondering why it wont come off lol
- unbolt the wheel bearing/hub assembly from the back of the wheel assembly
- you may need to use a puller or slide hammer to remove the wheel bearing/hub from the wheel assembly
* as far as i can remember the wheel bearing on an s40 is the studded type and does not have a seal on the inside which needs to be greased with the grease supplied but it may so you will need to check this before installing or the seal will get ripped*
- install the new wheel bearing by splining it with the axle shaft and threading the bolts in at the back then tightening them up bit by bit evenly so that the wheel bearing/hub goes in the wheel assembly straight
- reinstall the brake rotor and retaining bolt
- reinstall the brake caliper
- install the axle nut
- double check all bolts are tight > with parts such as these the tighter the better, within reason, you shouldn't be able to snap any bolts they are all quite large and durable
- put the wheel back on and torque to spec

hope this helps!
fyi you dont need to remove the strut or ball joint =) i never have while working for volvo =)



What special tools are required other than a wheel puller or slide hammer? I just ran into this problem on my s40. 160,000 miles..
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dfagan261
post Mar 6 2012, 02:08 PM
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QUOTE (dfagan261 @ Mar 6 2012, 02:02 PM)
What special tools are required other than a wheel puller or slide hammer? I just ran into this problem on my s40. 160,000 miles..



Forgot to mention... 2007.
Thanks
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dfagan261
post Mar 21 2012, 08:08 PM
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QUOTE (dfagan261 @ Mar 6 2012, 03:08 PM)
Forgot to mention... 2007.
Thanks


Well. I took this job on over the weekend and am now a happy owner of a non-squealing 2007 S40.

A few clarifications
- You WILL need to take off the steering knuckle
- the wheel hub bearing is not bolted in... it is pressed in.
- You cannot press out and install the bearing without a bearing press and adaptor plates


1. Jack up car and make wheels are chocked and car is sturdy. You're most likely going to have to beat on a few things.
2. Remove the wheel
3. Remove the brake rotor assembly. Two bolts in the back. Use a cord to tie it up to the shock tower, out of your way.
4. Remove the brake rotor. There are no bolts holding it on. It is held on by the wheel lugnuts, and is most likely rusted. How do you get it off?
a) spray some penetrating oil in the holes of rotor where the lugnut posts come out.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) tap it with a hammer to try and loosen it up. When that fails... get a bigger hammer.
c) I also ended up warming the inner portion of the rotor with a torch
d) and finally pried it off
e) This is a good time to take off the rotor protective guard on the steering knuckle.
5. Remove the axle bolt. This is a low torque bolt that threads into the end of the axle. ( I think 15mm)
6. Remove tie rod end. It can be released with a crack on the bolt with a hammer, but use a separator. There is a allen key in the top of the post to hold the post from rotating with loosening the tie rod nut. You don't want to damage this.
7. Remove the pinch bolt that holds the steering knuckle to the shock tower. This is PAINFULLY tight and probably has some corrosion. Spray with penetrating oil first. If you have an impact wrench, it will help a ton. If not, you will most likely have to create you own with a box end wrench and a hammer. :-)
8. Spray some penetrating oil on the connection between the steering knuckle and the shock tower. Let that soak while you..
9. Remove the lower ball joint. Again, use a separator. You will need the allen key at the top of the post to retighten the ball joint.
10. While removing the lower ball joint, you will have to press down hard on the lower arm, as it is spring loaded.
11. At this point you should be able to slide the axle out of the steering knuckle and bearing. If too tight, you may have to use a wheel press. But a slight wrap on the end of the axle with a blunt rod should break it loose. Don't damage the threads.
12. Remove the steering knuckle from the shock tower. If you were unable to get enough clearance to remove the axle, you should be able at this point. The knuckle should slide off, but it will be tight and will have to be tapped off with the assistance of your favorite hammer.
13. Now is the part you won't be able to do, unless you have a bearing presses with various adapters. Press out the old wheel hub and bearing and press the new one in.
OR.. take the steering knuckle to a reputable machine shop or automotive repair shop and have it done for you. It cost me $30. (USD).
(If in the Detroit area. Look up Mid 5 auto shop in Livonia. Excellent shop. Some NAPA stores will do this as well)

14. Reinstall in reverse order. Apply some grease to the axle spline.
a) You will have to tap the steering knuckle back onto the shock tower.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) be careful not to pinch your hand when installing the lower ball joint into the steering knuckle. The lower arm spring load is a little strong.
c) I couldn't find a torque for the steering knuckle pinch bolt. All friends and mechanics I talked to laughed and said, "pretty damn tight." Remember how hard it was to get off.
d) the axle bolt torque is very light. My research turned up 26 ft-lbs + 90 degrees.

Good luck. It wasn't that awful to complete myself. My quote from the dealer was about $500 (USD). I bought the bearing online for $127 (USD), and pressing of the bearing was $30 (USD).

Looks like I'm on the way to the golf shop for a new driver with the savings.

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