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> Lambda Light On, Always on ever since I bought the car.
Zvika960
post Nov 17 2009, 08:13 AM
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Hello all,
I'm new to the Volvo world and to this forum. I bought my first Volvo ~10 days ago.
It's a 1994 960 3.0L 24V. I was looking for a 2nd car and the desire for a Volvo came after I drove my friend's 740.

The Lambda light is ON all the time. The previous owner said he replaced the air flow sensor but it requires reseting for the light to be turned Off. Is that true? Can you please advise?

Thanks,
Zvika
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danr960
post Nov 17 2009, 03:10 PM
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I believe that computer would sense that the new sensor was working and turn off the check engine light, it would still leave a code to read, that would need to be reset.

The old owner may have read the code, and it may have been about the MAF sensor, they replaced it and it still is causing the code. Many times the code is only a clue to real source of the fault. It is a starting point and most of the time the actual sensor is fine.

The code can be read with the box under the hood on the driverside fender. In order to reset the first code has to be read twice. Then the procedure to erase has to be performed. See attachment.

How does the engine run? Most likely an air leak is the problem. Look for holes or cracks in the air ducting.
Also, there is a foil tube that runs to the air filter box, sometimes the valve in the air filter box hangs up and allow hot air from the exhaust side to enter, this can cause the MAF sensor to overheat and ruin it.

DanR '94 964 345,000 miles (111,000 on the new engine)
Attached File(s)
Attached File  G_tests_with_codes.pdf ( 142.61K ) Number of downloads: 65
 
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SykO
post Dec 16 2009, 02:28 PM
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if its still on after a MAF change then i'd check the wiring condition of the o2 sensor on the exhaust. the wiring may be naff or the sensor could be a dud. leave the battery disconnected for an hour, this is usually enough to clear any codes. when you start it back up and drive for a bit then it may come on again, if it doesnt then job done (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

M
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Zvika960
post Jan 2 2010, 02:59 PM
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Hi,
Thanks for your replies.
I checked the wiring of the O2 sensor. Didn't see any problem there.
Will check the MFA sensor as suggested.

I took the car to the dealer and even he couldn't fix it.
It looks like the fuel consumption is pretty high (~ 12.7 MPG).

Tell me if it makes sense: I intend to check the emissions. If they are bad then something is physically wrong (I do here rattling noises on different RPMs which I think are coming from the catalytic converter). Anyway, if the emissions are OK, then it's probably just a reset and I won't worry about it much.

Would appreciate your opinion.

Thanks,
Zvika
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danr960
post Jan 3 2010, 09:08 AM
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QUOTE (Zvika960 @ Jan 2 2010, 03:59 PM)
Hi,
Thanks for your replies.
I checked the wiring of the O2 sensor. Didn't see any problem there.
Will check the MFA sensor as suggested.

I took the car to the dealer and even he couldn't fix it.
It looks like the fuel consumption is pretty high (~ 12.7 MPG).

Tell me if it makes sense: I intend to check the emissions. If they are bad then something is physically wrong (I do here rattling noises on different RPMs which I think are coming from the catalytic converter). Anyway, if the emissions are OK, then it's probably just a reset and I won't worry about it much.

Would appreciate your opinion.

Thanks,
Zvika



The rattling could be the heat shield on the convertor, but I did have the internal element of the convertor loosen and rattle around in side, so if that was your case, then it could be restricting the exhaust system?

DanR
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JP003
post Mar 26 2010, 03:42 AM
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[quote name='danr960' date='Jan 3 2010, 10:08 AM' post='115826']
The rattling could be the heat shield on the convertor, but I did have the internal element of the convertor loosen and rattle around in side, so if that was your case, then it could be restricting the exhaust system?

DanR

Hi I have a fault on my post lambda sensor on my C70 and I was doing about 5 mpg and the car was shocking to drive. Try disconnecting the sensor in the engine bay and see how she runs. It's a temp fix but will run car off ECU alone. Until you can replace and reset your codes.
Until the sensor is replaced the codes will keep coming back and your car will self learn and start shutting down as a safety function as ECU is self learning if the same as C70. You can buy a cheap diagnostic tool which can read and clear codes. Very useful tool. Hope this helps JP.
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Greyhound1
post May 1 2010, 03:09 AM
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Maybe a bit late in the day but try this... Remove the battery for a couple of hours. I changed the MAF on mine & had the same problem with the lambda light staying on where previously it wasn't on at all. Removing the battery will reset the ECU and clear the light, but it really does take a couple of hours or more. It worked on mine & it worked on a friends 940.

I'm sure there is a more elegant way of resetting the ECU but doubtless it involves hard earned cash.

Hope this helps.

Happy motoring... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/460.gif)


Forgot to mention. My fuel economy improved somewhat after the reset. Coincidence or not, it was a welcome reality! Was down to 12mpg around town!
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ryjen
post Jun 22 2010, 02:56 PM
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QUOTE (Greyhound1 @ May 1 2010, 04:09 AM)
Maybe a bit late in the day but try this... Remove the battery for a couple of hours. I changed the MAF on mine & had the same problem with the lambda light staying on where previously it wasn't on at all. Removing the battery will reset the ECU and clear the light, but it really does take a couple of hours or more. It worked on mine & it worked on a friends 940.

I'm sure there is a more elegant way of resetting the ECU but doubtless it involves hard earned cash.

Hope this helps.

Happy motoring... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/460.gif)


Forgot to mention. My fuel economy improved somewhat after the reset. Coincidence or not, it was a welcome reality! Was down to 12mpg around town!

I had the problem of the Lambda warning light coming on on my 1994 960. I used the under bonnet code reader system to reset it but it kept coming back. Every so often the car would also cut out (usually at the most worrying of places!). I looked at the lambda sensor output with an oscilloscope and it was all over the place. Replacing the Lambda sensor did not cure the problem.

I found that the ground at the engine ECU (Bosch motronic ECU) was 0.2V above battery ground with the ignition on. This suggests that there is a bad ground at the point where the engine ECU is grounded, and presumably that is on the engine somewhere but I dont know where. So, until I work out where that is grounded, I soldered a wire onto the brown ground wire (cant remember which one eaxctly, but it is a brown one on one of the corners of the ECU connector) and joined it to the local ground just below the A post next to the ECU. That resolved the volt drop, cured the lambda warning problem, and it has not cut out again either. Can anyone help with where the ground for the motronic ECU is ? I will have another look when I get some time and find out where it is, let ya'll know.
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crashplaid
post Jun 26 2010, 10:11 PM
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undo the negative battery cable and pull it off and set it aside for about 1 minute. hook it back up and see if the light stays on. ONLY DO THIS IF YOU HAVE THE RADIO CODE IF YOU HAVE A VOLVO STEREO IN THE CAR. Otherwise, you will have NO STEREO. Try it and see..this won;t hurt anything UNLESS you don;t have the radio code. Is usually on a business card in the owners manual. Bood luck. Let me know if this works. Bill
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danielm85948
post Jul 8 2010, 09:05 PM
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QUOTE (danr960 @ Nov 17 2009, 03:10 PM)
I believe that computer would sense that the new sensor was working and turn off the check engine light, it would still leave a code to read, that would need to be reset.

The old owner may have read the code, and it may have been about the MAF sensor, they replaced it and it still is causing the code. Many times the code is only a clue to real source of the fault. It is a starting point and most of the time the actual sensor is fine.

The code can be read with the box under the hood on the driverside fender. In order to reset the first code has to be read twice. Then the procedure to erase has to be performed. See attachment.

How does the engine run? Most likely an air leak is the problem. Look for holes or cracks in the air ducting.
Also, there is a foil tube that runs to the air filter box, sometimes the valve in the air filter box hangs up and allow hot air from the exhaust side to enter, this can cause the MAF sensor to overheat and ruin it.

DanR '94 964 345,000 miles (111,000 on the new engine)

check the crankcase breather,and clean it all,and change the fuel pump relay.
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