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> When Idle Car Sounds Like It Will Stall, Lights Dim As Well Even While Driving..
mtux960
post Jul 30 2009, 03:29 AM
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If I had to take a guess I'm guessing the alternator is going bad.. but I am not positive. It starts up and it seems rough and the lights on the dash flicker a little.. While running it seems fine but when I sit at a red light, it sounds like it wants to stall.. and a few times I have seen the headlights dim even while driving(making a u-turn) Could it be a bad alternator?

I have replaced battery and the cable connectors recently as well and things seemed to be fine. I did stall and pulled codes for a bad fuel injector, but I ran fuel injector cleaner and it seemed to fix the problem and I think the lights flickering would not be because of bad fuel injectors..

Any Ideas? I'm saying bad alternator, but could it be something else?
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danr960
post Jul 30 2009, 10:13 AM
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Doubt it is the alternator, the dash lights are flickering because the rpms are going so low, because of how it is idling. Low idle/ near stalling will cause them to flicker.

I would try to determine if you are getting a miss in a cylinder or two, my engine will idle and not stall while running on 5 cylinders. It will run rough but it will run all day without worry of stalling.

First, inspect the rubber intake for any cracks, look for any unplugged vacuum hoses, look at the rubber elbows in the lines. Is the idle speed motor, attached to the rubber intake hose, has it's own little rubber hose, is that hose attached, is the motor vibrating? Is the motor full of dirt?

There are a few things that might cause your symptoms, so some shade tree diagnostics will need to be done.
When was the last time the spark plugs were changed? You can use the injectors for this by unplugging. If it is alread missing at one cylinder, then when you remove the injector plug the engine will stall because you just unplugged a normally functioning cylinder, do this for all, the one that unplugs and does not change the idle is the cylinder that is suspect.

Once that is done, you will need to rule out a power stage, there are two, one on each side of the ball shaped part of the intake manifold. Swapping these power stages will move the identified cylinder miss to another cylinder. If that happens then a power stage is faulty and needs to be replaced. I would be able to tell you what cylinders are controlled by which power stage but I do not have my book with me.

If the injectors, the spark plugs, check out okay, then with the engine off, unplug the MAF meter, and restart, it should stumble for a second or two but the idle should be more normal than not. If it still stumbling, then the MAF may not be the problem. Re connect the MAF only with engine and ignition off.

You could have a intake manifold leak, a very common problem in these years. Spraying starting fluid or a propane torch with a hose attached, placing it around the intake gasket at the head, usually cylinder 1 is the culprit.

This should get you started, report back your findings.


DanR '94 964 343,000 miles (109,000 on the new engine)
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danielm85948
post Jul 8 2010, 08:47 PM
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QUOTE (mtux960 @ Jul 30 2009, 03:29 AM)
If I had to take a guess I'm guessing the alternator is going bad.. but I am not positive. It starts up and it seems rough and the lights on the dash flicker a little.. While running it seems fine but when I sit at a red light, it sounds like it wants to stall.. and a few times I have seen the headlights dim even while driving(making a u-turn) Could it be a bad alternator?

I have replaced battery and the cable connectors recently as well and things seemed to be fine. I did stall and pulled codes for a bad fuel injector, but I ran fuel injector cleaner and it seemed to fix the problem and I think the lights flickering would not be because of bad fuel injectors..

Any Ideas? I'm saying bad alternator, but could it be something else?

change the brushes, on the alternator,two screws too remove,it is fitted with a regulator this can break down,and the brushes were down.
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