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> Troubleshooting Guide To Volvo 240 No-starts And Stalls
robert240
post Jul 28 2009, 02:36 PM
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Troubleshooting guide to Volvo 240 no-starts and stalls.

This guide covers the common reasons as to why a 240 won't start. Please contact me if you find something missing or incorrect. This is a brief overview, I highly recommend the "Volvo 240 Service Manual" from Bentley Publishers for more detailed information:

http://www.bentleypublishers.com/volvo/Volvo-240-1983-1993-Repair-Manual.html

Starter turns the engine but the car won't run or stalls.

Determine if the problem is due to a lack of compression, fuel or spark.

Compression view the camshaft with the oil cap removed while cranking to make sure it turns, this will verify the timing belt hasn't broke. Perform a compression test if needed.

Spark hold a spark plug wire close to the fender while cranking (away from the battery) to verify a strong orange spark. If no spark:

With the key on, verify that battery voltage is present on the blue coil wire (terminal #15). Take resistance measurements on the coil. Inspect the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires.

For 89-93 EZ-116K: Check for ignition trouble codes using socket 6. See http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

For 89-93 Inspect/replace the crank position sensor. Add dielectric grease to the heat sink of the power stage. Verify power to the ignition ECU. Verify the operation of the temperature sender and throttle switch.

For 83-88 Volvo/Chrysler system: Verify power, ground, and the output signal from the Hall Effect sender contained inside the distributor. Be careful with the connector, it will break easy. Verify battery voltage is present on the blue ECU wire (#2). Verify the operation of the throttle switch. A 83-88 diagnostic flow chart can be found here: http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?act=...ost&id=5403



Fuel 1989-1993 LH2.4-LH3.1: Check for fuel trouble codes using socket 2. See http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm


For 75-90 inspect and clean the 25A blade fuse on the fender by the coil, fuse 4, and the holders. For 91-93 the underhood blade fuse was replaced by fuse #6.

For 75-84 place a jumper wire on the left side of fuses 5 and 7. For 85-93 place a jumper wire on the left side of fuses 4 and 6. Both the in-tank and main pumps will now run constantly, listen for them. If the car starts with the jumper installed then most likely the fuel pump relay is bad. For 85-93 the system and fuel pump relays are combined into one package, clipped on the firewall above the passenger's feet. As a safety feature the pumps won't run unless spark is present.


AMM The air mass meter can be placed in a "limp-home" mode by unplugging it while the battery is disconnected. If the car starts with it unplugged (but still runs rough) then most likely the AMM is bad. Make sure it is being powered by the system relay.

O2 sensor inspect the fuse that powers the sensor heater. A wire from the sensor will connect with a thick green wire on the firewall, peel back the rubber boot during a warm idle. Measure the voltage, it should cycle quickly between .2 (lean) and .8 VDC (rich).

Coolant Temp sensor a coolant temp of 180 deg. F should have a resistance of ~300 ohms. Resistance will increase as temperature decreases.

For 1975-1982 CI/K-jet fuel injection see: www.k-jet.org

The LH2.2 (85-88) wire diagram can be found here: http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?act=...ost&id=4435
The LH2.4 (89-93) wire diagram can be found here: http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?act=...ost&id=6138



Links:

Parts, FCP Groton: http://www.fcpgroton.com/


Parts, IPD USA: http://www.ipdusa.com/

Art Bernstein's 240 repair site: http://www.cleanflametrap.com/

The Brickboard FAQ/forums:
http://www.brickboard.com/


Dave Shannon: http://volvo2.homestead.com/

ECU/AMM matrix: http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/ecu.htm
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Greaser
post Oct 1 2010, 12:00 AM
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As a rule of thumb, if you have one of the 240's from 75-90, keep a spare 25 amp blade fuse and hold in your glove box, along with a piece of emery cloth. You never know when its gonna blow, and when it does you'll be pissed and stranded if you dont have these on hand. Trust me, I speak from experience on this one. >.<
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MTturnedhomemech...
post Nov 7 2010, 05:22 PM
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Thanks! I lucked out on that bit, my new car, 1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon came with fuses in the glove compartment.
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drewdle
post Jan 11 2011, 02:45 PM
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I have a pack of 1156 and 1157 bulbs and half a pack of 25A blade fuses in my dash cubby for just such occasions.
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New240
post Aug 31 2011, 07:52 AM
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I have only had my 240 about a week and use it daily for about 50 miles daily start and stop 10 miles in between each stop. Yesterday and the day before it did not start up right away. When i turned the key it was dead, no engine turning or clicking, battery is new and was not the problem, after 2 -3 attempts of turning the key it cranked right up, seems to be a starter or ignition problem, any ideas on where a layman like myself can start?



UPDATE: Took my car in to our mechanic and he found out it was an issue with the bushings that connect the shifter rod to the transmission (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) All fixed and thankfully not expensive! Parts and labor less then 80.00
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K'Volvo
post Jan 10 2013, 02:11 PM
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Hi there

My 1985 volvo dl wont start. it ran perfect last night. Im not sure what the issue is. it wants to start but it dont.im sure its not a battery.

On a side note. i fill up the tank and decide to add fuel injection cleaner to the my tank. did that cause the issue?
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D'artagnan
post Jun 15 2013, 08:28 PM
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Hey guys,

My 1990 240 dl quit running on me in the middle of the road the other day. A couple buddys helped me push it to a gas station because we thought the gauge might have broken, but that didn't help. Determined I wasn't getting spark out of the coil so I replaced that and still won't start. Any advice on what next. I've driven the car probably 8000 miles since November when I bought it and this is the first issue.

Thanks in advance!
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danielm85948
post Jun 16 2013, 06:13 AM
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QUOTE (D'artagnan @ Jun 15 2013, 08:28 PM)
Hey guys,

My 1990 240 dl quit running on me in the middle of the road the other day. A couple buddys helped me push it to a gas station because we thought the gauge might have broken, but that didn't help. Determined I wasn't getting spark out of the coil so I replaced that and still won't start. Any advice on what next. I've driven the car probably 8000 miles since November when I bought it and this is the first issue.

Thanks in advance!

it sounds like the ECU has failed, but tests are needed first,check the camshaft is turning in case the belt has gone ,take off your oil cap on the engine get someone to turn the engine over.you will see if your camshaft is turning if ok, next test check your distributor cap ,the centre brush is ok not badly worn if so change it clean the contacts and check your rotor arm then check for spark ,if no spark check you are getting power to the lead from your ignition switch, then check your fuses and fuse contacts for rust if no spark it can be an ignition control module has failed you have to check the electrics first.
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EdWallace
post Mar 20 2014, 12:50 PM
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I have a 1983 245 DL with no spark at the HT wire on the coil. I followed the flow chart, turned on the ignition with out turning over the engine and jumped the b and c wires on the plug side not the distributer side on my chrysler ignition and did not see a spark at the end of the HT wire and ground. Is that where the spark is supposed to be? The cap was on the distributer. I had 11 volts at the #2 terminal on the control unit. I didn't notice the caution about disconnecting the plug into the control unit, but it appears that I wasn't the first one to disconnect the plug. Any thoughts?

Thanks, Ed
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danielm85948
post Mar 20 2014, 04:59 PM
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QUOTE (EdWallace @ Mar 20 2014, 01:50 PM)
I have a 1983 245 DL with no spark at the HT wire on the coil. I followed the flow chart, turned on the ignition with out turning over the engine and jumped the b and c wires on the plug side not the distributer side on my chrysler ignition and did not see a spark at the end of the HT wire and ground. Is that where the spark is supposed to be? The cap was on the distributer. I had 11 volts at the #2 terminal on the control unit. I didn't notice the caution about disconnecting the plug into the control unit, but it appears that I wasn't the first one to disconnect the plug. Any thoughts?

Thanks, Ed

the fact you do not have a spark at the coil, means change the coil.
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EdWallace
post Mar 21 2014, 12:24 AM
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Sorry I didn't mention that the coil is brand new and checks out by the two resistance tests. The HT wire and spark plug wires are new as well. I have 12 volts at terminal 15 (+) on the coil. Any other thoughts?

Thanks, Ed
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danielm85948
post Mar 21 2014, 05:35 AM
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QUOTE (EdWallace @ Mar 21 2014, 01:24 AM)
Sorry I didn't mention that the coil is brand new and checks out by the two resistance tests. The HT wire and spark plug wires are new as well. I have 12 volts at terminal 15 (+) on the coil. Any other thoughts?

Thanks, Ed

trouble then is a failed ignition module, or your ignition switch the electrical part of it has failed. Google how to test your ignition switch on you tube.
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EdWallace
post Mar 21 2014, 12:23 PM
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Thanks for answering. By ignition module do you mean the ignition control unit or the Hall effect switch on the distributor?

Ed
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danielm85948
post Mar 22 2014, 04:20 AM
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QUOTE (EdWallace @ Mar 21 2014, 01:23 PM)
Thanks for answering. By ignition module do you mean the ignition control unit or the Hall effect switch on the distributor?

Ed

you check for rust on the wiring of the ignition control unit ,in this country it is the ignition control module .you will find that unit by standing at the front of the car,look inside the engine bay.on the right inner wing.behind your headlight is a small black box that is the cover for the unit remove the cover .now you see the control unit,check for rust ,clean if rust found.take it you have checked all the fuses for rust ,and have cleaned them.and replaced all of the fuses.things fail due to rust ,that is why you check the fuses first ,then the wiring ,you may only need to clean the unit contacts. it may not have a cover some of them have one and some do not have it.

This post has been edited by danielm85948: Mar 22 2014, 04:24 AM
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roundbout
post Apr 14 2017, 06:46 AM
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So much useful information
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danielm85948
post Apr 14 2017, 11:16 PM
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Reason for edit: post and quote removed
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