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> 2002 S60 Awd Wheel Bearing + Ball Joint Replacement
post Jun 23 2009, 06:43 PM
Post #1


Group: Members
Posts: 3
Joined: 16-June 09
Member No.: 58,276
Status: Offline
Location: Canada
Drives: 2002 S60 AWD

I didn't see any tutorial on either the front wheel bearing / ball joint replacement. I recently did that myself, and thought I'd share my experience! You should double-check the part numbers. I got all my parts from the local Volvo dealership, as they are quite helpful to the DIYer.

I tried to give tool sizes I used too, but I forgot in one or two spots.

DISCLAIMER: For entertainment purposes only! Car maintenance should only be performed by qualified Volvo mechanics! No liability accepted for any damage to the car or yourself is accepted should you try to use this information for anything more than interesting reading material. I am not a mechanic, so use your own judgement!

Things you might need:


Hub Kit - Includes hub, driveshaft bolt, 4 mounting bolts - Volvo p/n 274298
Ball joint kit - Includes ball joint, 2 mounting bolts, driveshaft bolt - Volvo p/n 274548

Driveshaft screw - Volvo p/n 3076055 (don't buy, you get them in the kits!)
Anti-roll link nut, top - Volvo p/n 985909
Caliper/limiter bolts - 985454 (2 needed)

  • 10 mm socket
  • 14 mm socket
  • 15 mm socket
  • 18 mm socket
  • 19 mm socket
  • 21 mm socket (13/16" seems close enough)
  • T40 Torx
  • T30 Torx
  • 18 mm crowfoot wrench/adapter

  • 8 mm wrench
  • 18 mm wrench (ratcheting would be ideal)
  • 21 mm wrench

Misc stuff
  • M10 1.5mm pitch x 70mm bolts, the type that are partially smooth (see step 25)
  • 2" diameter steel pipe nipple (see step 25)

Misc tools
  • Slide hammer (see step 24)
  • Brass punches / hammer
  • Vice

Things you might do:

Step 1
Chock wheel blocks, and apply handbrake hard.

Step 2
To loosen the driveshaft screw, it's better to do this on the ground so you don't risk knocking the car off the jack stands. To do this remove the wheel trim on the side of the wheel. If you don't have this, you could put on the spare tire which gives access to the driveshaft screw. Or you can just try doing it on the jacks:
Attached File  step2_wheeltrim.jpg ( 177.66K ) Number of downloads: 146

Step 3
Have someone press the brakes hard, then loosen the driveshaft screw (14 mm).
Attached File  step3_drivescrew.jpg ( 133.7K ) Number of downloads: 133

Step 4
Loosen the roadwheel bolts as well (19 mm). I also fold in the mirrors, as I tend to knock them when standing up! Your choice ;-)

Step 5
Jack up the car, put on jack stands.

Step 6
Take off the road wheels

Step 7
If you haven't already loosened the driveshaft screw in step 3, have someone press the brakes and carefully loosen it now. Or you can insert a screwdriver into the brake disc to counterhold it while loosening.

Step 8
Loosen the bolt on the anti-roll bar link, the top bolt on the shock. Counterhold with a T40, then use a 18mm wrench to loosen it.
Attached File  step8_antiroll.jpg ( 136.93K ) Number of downloads: 230

Step 9
Carefully remove the ABS sensor by undoing the bolt (10mm). Don't pull up on the sensor wire to get the sensor out! Also undo the wire holder, then carefully put the sensor somewhere it won't get hurt!
Attached File  step9_abs.jpg ( 148.89K ) Number of downloads: 219
Attached File  step9_safe.jpg ( 199.52K ) Number of downloads: 192

Step 10
Turn the wheel to expose the back of the caliper to make removing the bolts holding the caliper / limiter in. Loosen the bolts, but before removing them have some rope or wire ready. You will have to hang the caliper from the spring, and it's pretty heavy! Once you are set, remove the bolts and hang the caliper to protect the rubber brake line.

You should use new bolts when putting the caliper back.
Attached File  step10_bolts.jpg ( 194.58K ) Number of downloads: 209

Attached File  step10_hanging.jpg ( 194.18K ) Number of downloads: 194

Step 11
If you turned the wheel to the side, return it to center.

You must measure the distance at the top bolt of the wheel spindle to the spring strut. When reassembling you'll have to set this distance the same, as otherwise your wheel camber will be wrong! Be sure to clean both measuring surfaces well before taking the measurement. I also took it three times to make sure, re-zeroing the instrument inbetween measurements. The other side of my caliper was above the bracket attacked to the sprint strut (can't see in photo). Mine was 87.0 mm for reference.
Attached File  step11_measure.jpg ( 1.77MB ) Number of downloads: 255

Step 12
If it's not obvious, mark the location of the disc relative to the hub. All that matters is which of the four holes you put the retaining bolt through - it should be obvious from markings on the disc!

Step 13
Remove disc retaining bolt (10 mm).
Attached File  step12_retaining.jpg ( 175.33K ) Number of downloads: 191

Step 14
Remove the disc. If the disc is old it may be seized on, requiring the application of quite a bit of force! If you were planning on replacing your disc now would be a great time to do so...

Step 15
Remove the driveshaft screw, DO NOT reuse. Your hub kit and each ball-join kit will come with a new driveshaft screw, you have lots of spares. I would immediately place the old one away somewhere you won't accidentally re-use it.

Step 16
Tap the driveshaft in 10-15mm with something soft (brass hammer, pin, etc).
Attached File  step16_tap.jpg ( 155.83K ) Number of downloads: 200

Step 17
Loosen, but do not remove, the bolts attaching the spindle to the spring struct. The bolt head was 18mm, the nut was 21 mm. Note that 13/16" seemed to fit almost perfectly if you don't have a 21mm.
Attached File  step17_loosen.jpg ( 130.23K ) Number of downloads: 214

Step 18
Use two wrenches to undo tie rod end. Counterhold with an 8mm, then undo the nut with a 18mm wrench (ratcheting would again make this go much faster). You should use a new nut on re-assembly.
Attached File  step18_tierod.jpg ( 172.23K ) Number of downloads: 234

Step 19
Pull bolts for spindle/suspension. You may have to fiddle around with the spindle or use a hammer to lightly tap the bolts out. You should use new bolts/nuts on reassembly probably. Before you remove them completely see next step for warnings!
Attached File  step19_boltpull.jpg ( 176.62K ) Number of downloads: 223

Step 20
When you remove the two bolts, the driveshaft boot might be thrust into the bottom of the spindle. You should hold the spindle down, and position the driveshaft to the side a bit. I also put a piece of cardboard in there to stop it (the rubber boot) from being damaged.

Tie up the driveshaft with rope or a hook. You can then pull or tap out the driveshaft from the hub completely. Again be careful it isn't pushed into anything!
Attached File  step20_hanging.jpg ( 168.1K ) Number of downloads: 219

Step 21
You will now undo the nut on the lower ball joint. Before doing that, I'd tie off the top of the spindle so that it doesn't flop out and get damaged!
Attached File  step21_flopper.jpg ( 150.14K ) Number of downloads: 209

Use a counterhold, then undo the nut. My counterhold was a T30 Torx, the nut was 21 mm on the old ball joint. The new ball joint was different sizes, so be sure to check yours! Also you may have to clean the end out to see the counterhold, there was a lot of dirt in there.
Attached File  step21_counterhold.jpg ( 186.6K ) Number of downloads: 242

Take the spindle, it should just lift off now! If you haven't already, take out the rubber driveshaft seal and inspect it. Save it, since the new hub doesn't come with one.

Step 22 - HUB
You need to put it in a 'soft-jawed' vice. Lacking that, two pieces of wood worked well enough for me.
Attached File  step22_vice.jpg ( 162.63K ) Number of downloads: 257

Clean the bolt threads sticking out that hold the hub on. It will make removal much easier!
Attached File  step22_clean.jpg ( 149.66K ) Number of downloads: 175

Remove the bolts holding the hub on (18 mm), then tap the hub out. Clean the mounting surface for the new hub, it should easily fit flush!
Attached File  step22_hubclean.jpg ( 166.34K ) Number of downloads: 182

Step 23 - HUB
Insert the new hub, and insert NEW bolts (they came with the hub kit). Tighten criss-cross first to 20 Nm (15lb-ft) then to 65 Nm (48 lb-ft).
Attached File  step23_torque.jpg ( 148.07K ) Number of downloads: 164

Finally angle-tighten them a further 60 degrees, again criss-cross fashion. You can make a quick angle gauge by printing off and cutting out a protractor (or stealing one from your kids). Aline 0 degrees with horizontal for instance, tape it on the back of your ratchet, and tighten until 60 degrees is now horizontal. You get the idea.
Attached File  step23_angle.jpg ( 143.28K ) Number of downloads: 160

Step 24 - BALL JOINT
Use 14mm socket to remove bolts on ball joint.
Attached File  step24_removejoint.jpg ( 159.76K ) Number of downloads: 238

Then remove ball joint - this is much much harder than it sounds! At least without the proper equipment (slide hammer). I used a combination of a punch, a heavy bar, and some chain to slowly remove this.
Attached File  step24_slidehammer.jpg ( 127.81K ) Number of downloads: 248

Step 25 - BALL JOINT
You will need to make some guide bolts. Purchase some M10 1.5mm pitch bolts, ones with some area without thread. Cut them down so the threaded area is only about 10mm. File the ends a bit to give them a nice shape so they won't damage your threads! This become the guide bolts, to ensure the ball joint goes on nice and centred.
Attached File  step25_guidebolts.jpg ( 120.34K ) Number of downloads: 200

Insert the ball joint in, and also your guide bolts:
Attached File  step25_guiding.jpg ( 122K ) Number of downloads: 212

Find a piece of pipe that fits over - I got a 2" x 2-1/2" steel pipe nipple part number UBLN-2025 that fit perfectly over the protective cap. Hammer in the ball joint carefully, you can finish with a brass punch if you want too. In retrospect the pipe should be longer, as the end of the joint stuck out!
Attached File  step25_smash.jpg ( 129.2K ) Number of downloads: 218

Step 26 - BALL JOINT
Remove the guide bolts, and insert the new screws. Using 14mm socket tighten to 40 Nm / 30 lb-ft.

Step 27
Reinstall the ball joint in the control arm, ensuring the mating surfaces are clean! Using a crow-foot, tighten the new nut (came with ball joint) to 40 Nm / 30 lb-ft while counterholding. Note that the crowfoot affects the torque setting - see http://www.belknaptools.com/extcalc.asp. However the crowfoot is so short relative to the torque wrench, that realistically you can ignore it. I had to use a 18 mm crow-foot with a 6mm hex counterhold. Do not forget the counterhold!!
Attached File  step26_crowfoot.jpg ( 139K ) Number of downloads: 163

Step 28
Put the driveshaft seal back, then slip the driveshaft back into the hub. Insert the screw by hand, then lubricate it. I found it useful to put the lower of the two bolts in that connect the spindle to the suspension. To do this you will have to push the control arm down hard.
Attached File  step28_seal.jpg ( 155.27K ) Number of downloads: 184

Attached File  step28_lowerbolt.jpg ( 179.5K ) Number of downloads: 153

Step 29
Insert both bolts & nuts, being sure they are inserted the correct way (from the front) on the spindle/strut interface. You may have to play around with pushing the control arm / spindle down and taping the bolts in to get them through. Tighten them enough that the spindle is not loose against the strut. Then make sure you get the measurement you took in step 11.
Attached File  step29_tighten.jpg ( 173.56K ) Number of downloads: 127

Step 30
Now tighten those bolts to 105 Nm / 77 lb-ft. Then further angle-tighten them by 90 degrees. You should be able to 'eye-ball' the 90-degree to good accuracy. Hold ratchet straight up, then go until horizontal etc.

Step 31
Using a crow-foot and a counterhold, tighten the new tie-rod nut to 70 Nm / 52 lb-ft.

Using a crow-foot and a counterhold, tighten the new anti-roll link nut to 50 Nm / 37 lb-ft.

Step 32
Wipe the ABS sensor down if it is dirty (don't use solvents!), then insert it and tighten it's mounting bolt to 10 Nm.

Step 33
Ensure the mating surfaces are clean, then put the disc back on and tighten the retaining screw to 8 Nm. If you are putting a new disc on: the disc may have one side with a little bit machined out. Put this opposite the disc retaining screw to maintain proper balance.

Step 34
Put the caliper back on the brake disc, then put the limiters back and insert new bolts. Tighten to 100 Nm / 75 lb-ft.

Step 35
Tighten the driveshaft screw a little more. Final tightening should be done when the car on the ground to avoid risking knocking it off the jack stands! I also put a little note on my windshield to remind me the driveshaft screw wasn't tight, as I was doing some other work!
Attached File  step35_done.jpg ( 190.14K ) Number of downloads: 151

Step 36
Put wheel back on, tighten wheel bolts.

Step 37
Lower car to ground

Step 38
Tighten driveshaft screw to 35 Nm / 36 lb-ft, then tighten a further 90 degrees.

Step 39
Tighten wheel bolts to 140 Nm / 103 lb-ft.
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post Jul 3 2009, 08:10 PM
Post #2


Group: Members
Posts: 4
Joined: 30-May 08
Member No.: 43,334
Status: Offline
Location: USA
Drives: 2003 S60 2.4T

How did you trouble shoot to the hub? i have a howling noise coming from my left front (loadest at about 80kph) but am not sure if it is a bearing or CV.
any problems since the work?
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post Jul 4 2009, 06:14 PM
Post #3


Group: Members
Posts: 3
Joined: 16-June 09
Member No.: 58,276
Status: Offline
Location: Canada
Drives: 2002 S60 AWD


There was a little bit of play in my bearing. When I had a check-up done a while ago, they caught that and said it would eventually need to be replaced. As I needed to do my ball joints I did it now...

No problems yet anyway! Noise is about the same as before.

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post Jul 5 2009, 08:34 PM
Post #4


Group: Members
Posts: 4
Joined: 30-May 08
Member No.: 43,334
Status: Offline
Location: USA
Drives: 2003 S60 2.4T

Thanks for the info and photos. They were very, very entertaining.
i was able to avoid the 'i don't do this often and would have done it differently if i had to do it again' syndrome. the noise is gone and quiet as new.
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post Jul 5 2009, 08:45 PM
Post #5


Group: Members
Posts: 3
Joined: 16-June 09
Member No.: 58,276
Status: Offline
Location: Canada
Drives: 2002 S60 AWD

So was it the bearing/hub that solved your problem then?
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post Aug 27 2010, 12:17 PM
Post #6


Group: Members
Posts: 12
Joined: 19-May 08
Member No.: 42,667
Status: Offline
Location: Sunsites, AZ USA!
Drives: 2002 S60 AWD

Thanks for the pictures!
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post Sep 11 2010, 11:06 AM
Post #7


Group: Members
Posts: 1
Joined: 10-September 10
Member No.: 78,299
Status: Offline
Location: Scotland
Drives: Volvo S60

Great tutorial & the pictures helped a lot!
I have just completed replacing my wheel bearing but I didn't need to replace the ball joints & since that seemed to be the trickiest part I skipped it.

All I did was follow the procedure up to removing the 2 bolts holding Hub Mounting bracket & instead removed the top bolt but left the lower bolt in & pulled the assembly forward then pulled the drive shaft out from the back.
Once the drive shaft is loose you can get access to the back of the Bearing Hub to loosen the 4 18mm bolts but before you completely remove them tap them with a hammer to knock the Bearing Hub out, clean the locating bore then fit the new Hub & bolt it all back up remember to set it back to your measured size.

So it is possible to do it in situ' whether you should or not I will leave to the experts.
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