Hey guys, I need someone who is knowledgable of replacing turbos in cars, in particular, the 740 turbo obviously. I would like to have more power than stock turbo, particularly top end power, as the stock turbo very much lacks this.

So if someone could list some good reliable sources for turbo replacements, and other accessories needed to do the job... I would like to spend around $1500 on it. The turbo was actually already replaced once, from the previous owner. There is also an underlying problem why two have already cooked... oiling problem, leaking oil, something is wrong somewhere because one speed run i did, almost all the oil was forced out of the dipstick and into the engine bay... arrrggg. That's what cooked the turbo this time, no oil.

Any, and all info on the subject is appreciated.

Seth

as to a replacement turbo, try cherry turbos. as for the forcing of the oil out, your oil passages might be blocked. not sure on the 740, though.

greek i am ashamed you didnt pass this one to me! mind judging by the photo's i put in the images forum, i am not surprised u didnt! haha

anyway, your turbo cooking ... how is it cooking? is it spurting out oil into the exhaust? into the intercooler? black smoke? are you sure its the turbo? lacking boost?

the best best is to replace it for like unless you want to go set about gettin a new manifold for another turbo. your prob best off getting a garret t25 if you can find one. or a turbo with a turbine a/r ratio of about .47-.63.

the trouble is with wanting more top end power, you going to have to look for a turbo with a turbine ar of about .53 ish and a compressor of .63 to get the boost higher up the rpm range, but then you will lack the power down the bottom and it wont start to spool up and give boost till about 2800rpm which is pants if you it to be punchy. also, look at the ipd turbo cam on ipdusa.com. that is pretty darned good too. that will help with your top end. also - a decent clutch will get you back a few hp's and torques.

otherwise replace it with a *NEW* turbo of similar spec (ar .47 on turbine, ar of .63 on compressor) and make sure it has the same mounting flange as your current turbo, then buy an electronic boost controller, this will let you set the boost you will be giving, but a word of warning, you put it up too high with this and say bye bye to your engine. also you will say bye bye to your mpg.

but before of of that, get all your lines cleared out, do an oil change, change the filter etc... whilst all that is being done, if you think it will help, which it probably will, got your oil lines changed.

if you do an ebay for volvo 240 turbo exhaust manifold, there is a few on there, which are excellent for the LHD cars, they will improve your spool up times no end, believe me, i had to make mine cos the LHD one placed the turbo too far back, which went onto the steering coloum (rhd).

Matt

Thanks Syko, you are a life saver man! And thanks to Greek too... I guess... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Yes, as far as Turbo being done for, it's spurting oil all down the intake line, it's got about 6mm of shaft play, it hits the side walls... and rattles like a mofo when trying to spool, and has negative boost, the car is gutless.

Okay, you have convinced me not to get a larger turbo, as I would like to try the aftermarket cam (i can't believe i didn't think of cams mods). So where do I find a direct replacement turbo then? I don't want to have to get any new manifolds, and don't want to have to tune the thing! At least, not profusely.

How many different turbine manifold hook ups are there? I see all different turbos with all different alignments (like which direction the intake is facing relative to the manifold, and also the oiling inlet... so can you easily just take the few bolts off and just turn them the proper way for the application? I need more info on this.

Here are a couple things I spotted at IPD I would like to get, let me know if they are good choices:

-IPD cam/cam gear set $300
-boost actuator $80
-heater core $150 (mine is leaking and fogging up BAD)

Plus a NEW turbo from i don't know where: I would like for it to be around $600, is this a realistic number?


Thanks in advance

Seth

Also, I havn't driven it much since it blew the turbo... is it a good idea to just keep it parked until I get it in working order again?

perfectly fine really, though what i suggest is keeping it in a visible place thats secure, syphon out the fuel tank and disconnect the battery. saves the fuel from going off (believe me it does) and saves your battery from being drained.

Matt

but syko, if it's puking oil through the dipstick tube, there is a blockage in there somewhere. if i am not mistaken, the turbos' oil supply is from the crankcase, so for it to be forcing it out means there is a pressure building up and not returning, or it isn't reaching the turbo in the first place. hell, what do i know, mine is the first turbo'ed car that i have messed with.

hahaha greek, you are correct though the oil feed is coming from there it drains straight bak to where it came from ... there is only 2 places and 2 pipes. if his turbo is screwed anyway, it has to come out and then you can change the pipes.

and by intake line thats the intake to the intercooler from the sounds of it, and 6mm play ouch! what did you do! i only had about 0.8 .9 ish after i knackered mine!

the ipd cam set is a good choice, make sure u advance the timing by about 2.5 degree's though, like the people say on there, it does make a difference. heater core as you say is necessary. the boost actuator isnt really necessary as you will get one with another turbo. just spend the money on a electronic boost controller such as the gizmo ibc. that is really good value for money and is pretty darned tasty to look at! and easy to place on the dash and install and use and love and cherish ...........ahem.

well, on the turbo hook-ups there is as many of them as there is cars and turbo's. you have the mistibushi turbo's in volvo's TD03,TD04 (not to mention about 15 different varities of each) then you have the garrett t25's. although the TD series turbos there have roughly the same mount and can be interchanged, the garrett cant.

then you got to think of space etc... not to mention oil feeds and returns, pipework to the intercooler etc... you exhaust, is there going to be enough room for the downpipe ... the list goes on my friend!

You could prob go to a breakers yard and get a turbo, then do some research on companies that re-condition them eg all new seals, re-balance and test them so effectively they are like new. thats what i am doing, £250 all in for me compared to say £380 for a brand spank but mind you i do have my eyes on some nice ones (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) oh and the re-con units as such will be garunteed too so you have peace of mind.

Personally the turbo on there with that manifold should be good enough for 250-275bhp i would say. then you really start needing to think about fuelling etc... so dont even go there on this post! haha thats a note for myself!

Okay, well I checked out the Turbo, and the only markings I can see are AiResearch-Garrett and the markings "M24".

http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-700/Engine/Eng...70-189-474-826/

That was the boost actuator is was talking about, it says it holds the boost into the top end, unlike the stock unit. I find it annoying that it does that, feels like the engine has no business past 5000rpm.

Does no one here know where you can buy the right turbo to do the job online anywhere? I have found some turbos that look pretty close, and the specs are pretty much on... but I'm not sure, and not ready to spend $700 on one without verifying first.

As far as HP goes, what is the stock engine capable of? I would like to have between 220 - 250hp with these few simple mods (cams, boost increase, exhaust).

Seth

stock internals are good to about 300 350ish as long as you keep your foot in control. the gearbox is the main aspect. ideally you'll have an m90 as opposed to a m46 or m47. the m90 is ok till about 400ish my research tells me, the m46 and 47 isnt that realiable and probably wont like anything more than 200, so for that bhp you want, you should be fine.

you most likely have a garrett t25 you GRRRRRRRR anyway ... get a t25 and you'll be happy!

So I have the M46 transmission... so are you saying it CAN handle 220 - 250hp? IMO, i think the transmission should do fine, CONSIDERING that I won't get much more peak torque from it, I would mostly be extending the torque curve into the higher rpm's. You know what I mean? But I'm no expert on this though...

Would this be a turbo I would need?

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Garrett-T3-T04E-turbo-T...bayphotohosting

thats cool .... you just made me really happy with that link! greek you should check it out.

The problem with that turbo, you will find it wont spool up and start to give boost till about 3500rpm because of the turbines ar of .68 but yeah the t2 t4 mounting is fine ... mmm yum

.68 Turbine? I am seeing .48 a/r... or which one is it? Is it the 'Trim', or the a/r housing that you need to know? Yah, like you said, I definitely don't want a spool up at 3500rpm, if I had my way, I would like 2000rpm spooling; is that possible to find a turbo with those characteristics for the 740? I would like flat torque from 2000 - 2500 up to redline, or close to it.

I emailed the guy and he said I would need the water cooling option because the volvo has watercooling option... but I don't see any watercooling lines or anything; what do they look like?

Turbo basics - a quick guide by SyKo (this should be put somewhere sticky mods!)

ok few things, trim = a/r which is specified in a decimal number. you have two sections to it.

you have the turbine - which is the exhaust side, which is what the turbo's uses to work. this number is specified as .48 to .70 usually on most cars. you really wont need anything bigger on that.

then you have the compressor, which is the side that provides the positive pressure, (measured in psi or bars, 14 psi in 1 bar). this side also has a 'trim' or a/r ratio. this can also range from around .47 to .70.

Sizing

to get an earlier spool up time, you will need the ar on the TURBINE (exhaust) side to be as small as possible for the size of your engine, once again usually .47 in both our cases. this .47 will equate to the turbo spooling up at roughly 2500rpm which is good. With a higher ar ratio on this side (.53 to .70) you should expect the turbo to start spooling up later in the rpms, say 3000rpm to 4500rpm. These higher ar ratios on the turbine side are usually placed on engines with larger cylinder capacity 2.5l > 4l.

to get to full boost quickly, you will need a small ar on the compressor side (positive pressure side), usually around .57, which will go to 7 or 11 psi depend on whether you have a low prtessure turbo model or a high pressure model. With a higher ar on this side, (say .63 or .70), you will see the boost getting to pressure later on in the rpm say 3500rpm BUT it will last longer eg. to 5000rpm compared to a smaller (.47 ar) which will stop providing more boost at 4000rpm.

Cooling

Now this is where things will start to get tricky for you.

Turbo's require a constant flow of oil. This lubricates them and stops them from wearing out. In your case the seals within the turbo have gone, and its spewing oil everywhere. You CAN however get these repaired, but at a cost. Sometimes it can be cheaper to repair them depending on where you take them, and sometimes it can be cheaper fitting a reconditioned or new model. I digress...

In some models of turbo, the oil is also used to cool the turbo, this helps prolong its life, and stops the heat from burning your oil away.

Some turbos also have water lines into them. This is primarily for the cooling. The water keeps the turbo (or tries to) at a constant safe working temperature. Thus stopping it from getting too hot and burning the oil and seals away. The water is fed from your normal cooling system and run through your radiator.

Sometimes the water and oil seals can both go then you end up with all sorts of nightmares on your hands!

In terms of describing what they look like ... well thats a bit hard as they both look the same in essence. Your oil lines should be all metal as a starting point. This is because the oil is fed in under pressure.

However! So are the water lines (made from metal, but not under pressure as the oil) and the key difference here is there will be say 2 or 3 inches of metal which will then turn to rubber hoses with jubilee clips. these will be your water lines. it should feed from the water expansion tank link into the turbo, then from the turbo into the water hose coming off your water pump. they will be small ish pipes around 15mm outside (12 or 13mm inside) diameter.

Right i think that about explains it for you. Sorry about the essay though, i have made it as short as possible, but keeping all the good juicy bits of useful in. IF anyone should disagree or would like to add to my explanation here then please feel free and rain on my parade - i dont mind, but beware! Greek might have something to say about it!

Matt

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