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> Oil Leaking From Motor, "pics"
wizzy214
post Feb 26 2009, 06:53 PM
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jump started the volv this morn, been sittin a few months.
96 850t 133,xxx

did a 10 mile loop city and highway

came back and noticed oil on the ground and when i open the hood wow.
where is this oil coming from?

(IMG:http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g55/wizzy214/dcp_2453.jpg)
(IMG:http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g55/wizzy214/dcp_2455.jpg)
(IMG:http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g55/wizzy214/dcp_2451.jpg)
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some-beach!
post Feb 26 2009, 08:46 PM
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Looks like it's PCV system servicing time. You're getting blow by out the dipstick tube and/or oil cap. This is due to increased crankcase pressure caused by a faulty or clogged PCV system. Do it now before you blow a main seal. I just ordered my kit from FCP ~ see the ads above from board advertisers or type in "Volvo 850 PCV" on eBay for his kits which is where I ordered mine. Make sure you get the correct kit for turbo or non turbo. Also check the pinned guide for this procedure.
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wizzy214
post Feb 26 2009, 09:13 PM
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is this the kit your talking about?
how hard is the install?
clicky
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some-beach!
post Feb 26 2009, 09:25 PM
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That's the one and the seller I mentioned. He's got it listed for $119 on this site and from $107 + on eBay [free shipping].

Here's a good read on the PCV service w/ photos [always helpful]:

http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?show...1182&hl=pcv
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wizzy214
post Feb 26 2009, 09:41 PM
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thanks again, looks like its gunna be labor intensive, im going to tackle it next week, ill post pics too.

The shop i took it to said to get rid of the car because the labor alone would cost more than the car is worth.
it was my moms car now its mine.

just wondering what a shop would charge, and hours for this to be done.

thanks
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70 140
post Feb 26 2009, 10:45 PM
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Dealer charges too much. The yocal volvo specialist here is about $400-500 parts and labour, but that is Volvo parts, with all the hoses replaced. They do the PCV on these cars so fast it makes your head spin.

Do it yourself, if you have a socket set and an open ended wrench set you are set.

Some tips:
-Replace the dip stick tube seal - if it isn't in the kit you buy order one.
-Vaccuum the area around the top of the intake before you pull it off. Once its off immediatly plug the 5 ports with paper towel and vaccuum some more. There is a ton of dirt and sand waiting to get into your engine.
-Take the time to make sure the bottom "hole" is cleaned out. When you stick your finger in you can feel the oil passage to the sides, but the lower half of the hole cuts through the oil passage and goes into the sump. Make sure this half-moon shaped opening is clear. Use the non pointy end of a nail and pull the crud out.
-Its a great opportunity to replace the vac line to the fuel pressure regulator.
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ampangbear
post Feb 27 2009, 05:00 AM
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Glad it was useful.
Cheers.
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some-beach!
post Feb 28 2009, 08:02 AM
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Another good PCV tutorial:

http://www.lakesidedp.com/uploadpics/pcv/
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wizzy214
post Apr 3 2009, 08:04 PM
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just ordered the pcv kit from ebay.
waiting for shipping.
while everything is apart is there anything i should do or replace or clean?

i know its on here but how do you clean injectors?

thanks
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ampangbear
post Apr 3 2009, 09:16 PM
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2 ways that i know of. Well actually three but the third one sounds a bit lame.

1) Use in-tank additives that the fuel-pump will use to jet through the injectors, and cleaning it at the same time.
2) Remove injectors and send it to the cleaner shop where they have tube machines where the injectors were subjected to a higher pressure internal cleansing. And because of the glass tubes, you'll be able to see within the first try, which injector is clogged etc. By the end of the cleaning cycle, you can also see which is good and which is not. And the dirt at the bottom of the glass tube, hehehe...
3) A mechanic once showed me that all he did was just to keep the injectors submerged in injector cleaner fluid for a day or two. This is lame, now i know, cos most of what thet will achieve would only be to clean the EXTERNAL parts of the injectors. Not the internal part which is of paramount significance.

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some-beach!
post Apr 3 2009, 09:21 PM
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I got mine done and it was a fairly straight forward replacement.

Follow the PCV service links provided, take your time and pay attention to the hose routing/layout and you should have no trouble.

I can add that fastening the hoses to the PCV trap/tank prior to installing is your best bet. Get the clamps tight, a few of mine [top hose under spark plug cover & at the PTC] were loose from a prior replacement and caused leaks.

Clean the PTC thoroughly, mine was nasty and took some effort to get it squeaky clean.

I also replaced some vacuum lines that looked a bit rough.

As far as cleaning the fuel injectors, removing them and manually cleaning them is not required if you're not having any significant fuel injector related problems. I didn't disassemble my fuel rail, I just disconnected the fuel line & return, leaving the fuel rail on the intake. If you choose to remove the injectors, here's a good basic process overview [Ford specific ~ general process] ~ http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=82 but for $50-$80 a shop will do them for you.

There's a lot of excellent "add to your tank" fuel injector cleaner products out there that do a great job of in service cleaning ~ SeaFoam being one brand.

Have Fun! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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some-beach!
post Apr 3 2009, 09:24 PM
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Dang it Bear ~ I can't type that fast (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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woodsytf
post Apr 3 2009, 10:36 PM
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related info in these pdf's

the knock sensors are under the intake manifold too. a good time to replace anything under there if you plan to keep it.

good luck!
Attached File(s)
Attached File  egr_function_testing.pdf ( 33.01K ) Number of downloads: 29
Attached File  Knock_Sensor_Replacement__improved_.pdf ( 1.45MB ) Number of downloads: 26
Attached File  vacuum_diagrams_turbo.pdf ( 165.69K ) Number of downloads: 29
Attached File  vacuum_diagrams.pdf ( 87.85K ) Number of downloads: 24
 
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ampangbear
post Apr 4 2009, 12:04 AM
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All are good advice here. Good luck.

Beach, no worries, you'll get the hang of it.
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blakbyrd
post Apr 7 2009, 08:01 AM
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From reading through this post, it sounds like I need to do this to my 850 as well, as well as replacing the head gasket. I finally fixed the leak in my radiotor overflow tank, only to now have (apparently) a small amount of coolant now deciding to leak into the oil. So for now the Volvo sits (partly why I got the Saab also, aside from wanting one again for a long time, so I can work at my leisure on the Volvo and still have transportation).

Question though: How often would this PCV replacement need to be done? Is it something semi-regular? Say every 75k or 100k miles? Just curious.
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woodsytf
post Apr 7 2009, 10:31 AM
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QUOTE (blakbyrd @ Apr 7 2009, 09:01 AM)
How often would this PCV replacement need to be done? Is it something semi-regular? Say every 75k or 100k miles? Just curious.


sometimes it never needs fixing (rare, but....it could happen) if the maintenance schedule is well attended to and all the other oil/PCV/vacuum/breather issues are not neglected and promptly fixed (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) it could go until the bearings, rings, and valve train have run a gazillion miles and cough their last breath. (remember, i said... its possible) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
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ampangbear
post Apr 8 2009, 06:06 AM
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Yes, i have to agree. I have a car here, though after 14 years, have no problems with the PCV. The owner did it ANYway, for fear that it gets clogged at the most inconvenient of times. When done, we took a look at the old tank, and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/haha.gif) except for the external dirts, it doesnt look so 'cloggy'... Flushed some chemicals in it, and just a little oil comes out (normal)...

Haha...

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grinch
post Apr 8 2009, 06:56 PM
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Hello, have had the pcv system cleaned on my 97 850. The line from the bottom of the flame box to the engine was plugged. The line was cleared and everything was great for a few days. Problem returned and car was returned to shop. sludge was in the box and the line from the engine was plugged again. This time the box was replaced and the lines were recleared. I left the care at the shop for the service manager to drive for a couple of days to see if the problem comes back. QUESTION Does anyone think the oil pan should be removed and cleaned? or will this even help?
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ampangbear
post Apr 8 2009, 08:17 PM
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QUOTE (grinch @ Apr 9 2009, 07:56 AM)
Hello, have had the pcv system cleaned on my 97 850. The line from the bottom of the flame box to the engine was plugged. The line was cleared and everything was great for a few days. Problem returned and car was returned to shop. sludge was in the box and the line from the engine was plugged again. This time the box was replaced and the lines were recleared. I left the care at the shop for the service manager to drive for a couple of days to see if the problem comes back. QUESTION Does anyone think the oil pan should be removed and cleaned? or will this even help?



Grinch,

Next time, could you kindly start a new thread for your queries? Thanks.

Now, on your car. Sludge in the breather box is normal. After so many years, you cant help but wonder what kind of oil deposits get stuck in there. But if you think your oil-sump is also filled with sludge, then that means, the maintenance on your car must have been pretty poor. If you suspect sludge in it, you can have it dropped and inspected/cleaned etc. Its not something unheard of, and the cost is just the chemical gasket. Labour, i cant comment on.

Thanks.


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some-beach!
post Apr 8 2009, 08:21 PM
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QUOTE (grinch @ Apr 8 2009, 07:56 PM)
Hello, have had the pcv system cleaned on my 97 850. The line from the bottom of the flame box to the engine was plugged. The line was cleared and everything was great for a few days. Problem returned and car was returned to shop. sludge was in the box and the line from the engine was plugged again. This time the box was replaced and the lines were recleared. I left the care at the shop for the service manager to drive for a couple of days to see if the problem comes back. QUESTION Does anyone think the oil pan should be removed and cleaned? or will this even help?


What was the original problem/symptom the prompted a PCV service? Oil leak? Smoking dip stick?

Was the entire PCV system replaced with new parts? The parts are inexpensive and when getting in there to clean, total replacement would have been wise. I just did a PCV service with a kit from FCP Groton. Cleaning the PTC thoroughly is required to get maximum PCV functionality. My guess is the PTC and other parts were not cleaned/replaced nor any of the small lines so it's not a fully functioning system. Read the PCV system process and you'll see everything involved.

I ran an oil flush through mine directly after the PCV service and unless the oil pan is sludgy, a pan removal isn't necessary.


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