Hey there, I'm new to this forum, I'm from Holland and I'll try to write this in English correctly; feel free to correct me. Like "ignitionlock" is that the right word for the part where you put your key in to start the car? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

So anyways, I own a Volvo 440 build '92, probably Europe.

One day it happened, the key wouldn't start when I put the key in "start" position.

The roadguard helped me to make a by-pass. I have to pop the hood every time and there they made a wire that I have to bring onto the battery to start the starting engine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Great temporary "hot wiring", but i'm looking for a permanent solution.

Now I've manage to test several things:
1) replacing the entire ignitionlock (by a 2-hand one), no change (also tried to just change the mechanism or just the electrical part ... no change).

2) put 12 volt on the wire that goes to the startingengine, at the contactpoint at the ignitionlock-plug. Ok so the wiring is still ok!

2) measure the different voltages on the contacts of the lock-plug. Now it gets interesting without an electric sceme. (I found many, but not from the starting-locking-mechanism)
-I found a thick red wire, with constant 12 volt on it. Works fine.
-I found a thick white/grey wire, going to my starting engine. The wire is ok, but I get no 12 volt in any way I put the key.
-Then there is a thick wire (forgot the color) used for the assecoires. That one works fine, it turns on when i put the key in (lets 12 volt through), en when i try to start it interrupts. That's normal for all I know.
-Finally I found 2 wires, EACH going to the same contact of my ignition-lock-plug. One is a thin wire, ASSUMINGLY going to the dashboard lights. There is 9 volt on this wire once I put the key in. So on this same circuit, there's also a thicker wire. I am clueless as to where this one is for!!
Strange thing is, the 9 volts on this contactpoint, becomes 12 volt when I want to start the engine by key.

Conclusion:
It is as if the 12 Volt is given to an unknown wire only, while it should also be passed on to the starting engine contact point.
-Did I just have bad luck with the 2nd hand lock, having the same problem?
-What is that wire for that gets the current 12 volt?
-Could there be a shortcircuit in the unknown 12 volt wires, causing a backfire on the ignition-lock-plug somehow, preventing it from sending the 12 volt to the starting-engine wire?

Need I make a picture to support my story, is there someone who can help me with answers, a sceme or directions?

Thanks in advance!

OK on my diagram, the lock has 4 contacts, 30 is the 12v supply, 75 goes to the 'D relay', 15 goes to the ignition relay, and 50 goes to the abs and starter motor.
I would check the relays that these feed, as well as the starter solenoid, probably when you are making the short to start the car you are bypassing the starter solenoid, so this is a possible culprit, but check those others too- starter circuit from terminal 50 first I guess, also check the switch for continuity between terminals 30 and 50, when in the position 4 starting position, that will tell you if you are getting a connection.
Grendel

Thanks, I found the corresponding numbers on the electric part of the lock-cilinder as well.

terminals 30 and 50 do not get connected. Is that supposed to be a direct connection in my cilinderlock (or the electrical part of it)? In which case I'm quite certain now that I've just had bad luck with the 2nd hand lock that I've tried to replace the original one with.

Because a wire from the battery to terminal 50 directly starts the engine just normally. Normally the locking mechanism directs the 12 v supply from terminal 30 to terminal 50 if I understand it right now. That's the part where it goes wrong. Terminal 30 receives the 12v and is passing it on to different terminals, depending on the position of the key. This works fine for every terminal except terminal 50.

I did find audio wires making shortcut just now. Made me wonder: Perhaps it had something to do with the cause as well? Is it possible that a shortcut (in the ignition relay circuit) prevents the locking mechanism to direct the 12 V to terminal 50? Or only a "short-cut" or "broken connection' in the electrical part of the lockcilinder itsself?

Well 30 and 50 will only make contact in the start position, the key will then spring back one position for running, have you tried bridging the contacts to see if the starter fires up?, if so its the switch at fault, its possible that both switches have the same fault.
Grendel

If you supply 12v to the cable off of pin 50 the starter solonoid should kick in and turn the engine over, you could always fit a seperate switch to supply this power!
Grendel

Yeah, I thought about that, making my own startbutton (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Would be a nice asset to my car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Can I simply "split" the 12 V wire into a switch, connecting the other side to the pin 50?

I need it to be a safe switch, do I need to take into account a thick wire or anything?

Hmmm

I should have this lighting switch here somewhere.. if it's calculated for 220V it should be able to handle the 12V without melting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

I used one of the switches on the left dashboard, just below the rear window heater switch. The middle of those three was unused but not anymore =)
I figured that would be a good point to fetch the 12 V because it only works with the key in the lock and it should have its own fuse if wires let go.

A start-button like BMW I tell ya =)

I can't wait until I lend my car to someone and have to explain that ;P

Thanks for the help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

That diagram would still be welcome