These are Volvo instructions.
Remove
The oil dipstick and its pipe.
The splashguard under the engine.

Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
Release the oil cooler from the sump.Hang up at the rear.
Remove the screw from the bracket for the fuel line.


Removing the oil sump(oil pan)

Slacken off all screwsholding the oil sump.
Remove all screws except fro four.
It is reccommended that four screws in the corners of the sump are left in place
Carefully tap the sump with a rubber mallet until the joint and its liquid gasket releases.
Remove the remaining screws.
Remove the sump.

Cleaning

Clean the gasket surfaces on the oil sump and cylinder block.
Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and gasket solvent P/N 1161440

Warning Use a fume hood or extractor when using gasket solvent.(Fan if inside a garage)

Installing the oil pan

Apply liquid gasket P/N 1161 059-9 to the sump use roller P/N 951 2767 (Or mini roller from hardware store)

Install new o-rings
The oil sump.
Secure it loosely with a few screws.
Then the remaining screws.


Press the pump against the transmission
Tighten the screws (1),(2),(3) and (4) to 3Nm.

First tighten the screws (5) to 25Nm.
Then tighten to 48 Nm.
Tighten all screws in the sump joint to 17 Nm.
Start at the transmisson and continue fowards in pairs.
Install the screw for the bracket for the fuel line.
Connect the oil cooler to the sump.
Use new o-rings.
Reinstall the pipe to the subframe.

Install
A new oil filter
The oil drain plug with a new o-ring
The dipstick and its pipe also use a new o-ring.


Note: check that all the o-rings are positions are correctly.

Fill the engine oil.
Run the engine to operating temp.
Check for oil leaks from the sump or the oil cooler.
Install the splash sheild under the engine.
Check the oil level.Top it off if needed.

Some more notes:
You may have to support the Right side of the engine and drop the subframe a little to get the pan out.

Have someone help you when installing the pan and watch the o-rings to make sure they do not fall while installing the pan.

Make sure when the pan is off you remove the pipe in the oil pan and replace those o-rings at the same time when you have it apart.

Also make sure you remove the oil pick up tube and replace that o-ring.

I think that is about all.
If there is anymore quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry but I don't have the part# for the o-ring kit but the dealer sells it as a kit.

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Very nice, thanks for posting this Tech!
Does the o-ring kit include all of the o-rings that you mention in this procedure? Or do you have to get the o-rings separate for the oil pickup tube and the other pipe?

They should all come in the kit.
Unless they have made changes to the kit lately.
They all used to come in the kit.
And if your car is non turbo you will have extra o-rings because they give you o-rings for the turbo return lines.

I just want to caution anyone trying to remove the pan in a garage without a lift. I consider myself to be a good mechanic and do all of my own work on my cars, including my 2000 S80 T6. As such, it took me about 10 hrs to complete this repair and it was not easy. 90% of that time was spent getting the pan/sump out. And as usual, the repair manual instructions are vague, to say the least. It is not possible to remove the pan without at least lowering the front of the subframe. Actually, I took out both front subframe bolts and dropped it as far as possible, which is about 3 inches. I believe it would be much easier once the the entire subframe is lowered, which would be possible if the car is on a lift. And just as a note, I removed the tabs on the left side of the pan (bell-housing side) with a grinder once it was out to assist in its installation. My suggestion is to find a friend with a lift and lower the entire subframe and, yes, be very patient.

"Some more notes:
You may have to support the Right side of the engine and drop the subframe a little to get the pan out."

I am in the middle of this job and the line above, included in the instructions, seems the most important. Getting the sump out is VERY difficult. Can someone elaborate on this for me please.

:cat: Hi there graemem. :00000732: to Volvo forums.

:liebe011: for joining us.

Are you a member of Volvo Enthuisasts Club? Dave in Hamilton might be able to help you with those problems.

Don't forget we have a New Zealand sub-forum.

Please keep in touch. We look forward to your future posts.

Cheers :right:

Ok.... current status...i have the front sub frame bolts loosened and dropped down with th engine supported from below. However the oil line to the power steering is in the way so i think i will need to disconnect this line to get it out of the way...will let you know how I get on...

I have finally managed to remove the oil sump. Myersmith offers very sage advice in his post above...this is indeed a very difficult job.

For those still wishing to tackle this job yu might find the folowing useful. I am not a mechanic and work in an office although I am reasonably mechanically minded.

Follow Tech's instructions above to the point where it says "Remove the sump"

The sump does not come out easily! As Myersmith reported above this took him 90% of his time. Likewise for me...I probably spent about 8 hours getting to the pount where I had the sump out.

Here is what I did....

Loosen the screws that hold the fuel line to the blockso that you can wiggle it out of the way as best you can.

Likewise with the hydraulic line for the power steering. I removed one of the screws on the subframe holding hydraulic line but this wasnt enough and in the end I disconnected it at the pump at the top by the filler. This gave me a bit of room to wiggle it around and out of the way. When I go to put the sump back I will probably disconnect the hydraulic line at the power steering unit as well so that I can move it well out of the way.

Next you need to drop the front subframe. To do this I put a scissor juck under the transmission sump and then undid the two front subframe bolts. These were done up very tight and took some undoing. I loosened these right off and let the subframe drop as much as it could which was about 2" or so.

This was not enough to get the pan out. I then undid a bolt holding an electrical cable rack that was bolted to the front subframe. I got at this from the top by removing the water hose to give me a bit of room to get my hands down there.

I then undid the engine mount that goes onto the subframe. You access this from underneath through a hole in the subframe. I then loosened the subframe bolts right off and let the subframe drop ...this gave about 3" clearance. I still found that I couldnt get the pan out.

I then took out the two bolts that attached the right engine mount to the subframe. This did two things...it allowed the subframe to drop a bit and also as it was overhanging the subframe on the inner side and preventing the pan to come out..once removed and wiggled out of the way it enabled the pan to drop a bit. To do this I took the front right hand wheel off to get better access.

To get the pan out requires some wiggling and wedging. It is an incredibly tight fit. It certainly does not drop straight out.

Once out I found the offending O Ring straight away it was on the transfer pipe in the sump and it was creased. I replaced the O rings in this line as well as the oil lift line in the sump. There are a couple of O rings in the block on the right hand side near the oil pick up pipe. I have a couple of O rings over in the standard kit and are searching for where thse might be.

I have taken some pictures which I may load once the job is done.

I am picking up the special sealant from the Volvo agent on Monday and will tackle the re-assembly job early next week.

Here's what I did to put it back together...

Picked up the sealant from the Volvo agent...be prepared for a shock ...it was US$80 for a small tube of sealant. You have to admire Volvo for being able to pump the margins up on these parts to the level they do!

Anyway back to the job...

Disconnected the power steering line to get it right out of the way. My car is a right hand drive (being in New Zealand) so I'm not sure if the plumbing is the same on left hand drives.

I removed the tabs on the bell housing end of the sump, the same as Myersmith and this made it easier to get in. Even still it was a tight fit.

Cleaned up both surfaces using super fine "wet and dry" paper and some solvent.... then spread the sealant on the sump. Didn't bother with the roller.

Did up all the bolts following Tech's intrsuctions above.

Then recconnected the hydraulic steering line, reattched the fuel line clips etc.

Wire brushed the front sub frame bolts and put Loctite on them. Did these up and then re-bolted the engine mounts. Reattched the cable rack....and fitted the dipstick.

Put in new filter, oil and topped up the power steering fluid.

Job done.

In terms of parts it cost ...

Sealant US$80
O Ring kit US$21
Oil (semi synthetic 15w 40) US$24
Oil filter US$22

Labour ...heaps!!!

Like Myersmith I would caution anyone wanting to do this at home without a lift. It can be done using jack stands etc but it is fiddly and frustrating. I find it quite satisfying having done it...but there were times...I thought I may not be able to fix it!

Good luck if you tackle it. Happy to answer questions if you have any.

Hi as promised here are a couple of photos of the job.

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2002 volvo s80 non turbo
OK, I have read this with great interest as I have a significant leak that I can't find near the oil cooler that goes into the oil sump. SO, if I just try to replace the orings on the oil cooler, will I have crossed the rubicon and find myself pulling the sump and going through the pain described in this post??

Thanks

T