These are Volvo instructions.
Remove
The oil dipstick and its pipe.
The splashguard under the engine.

Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
Release the oil cooler from the sump.Hang up at the rear.
Remove the screw from the bracket for the fuel line.


Removing the oil sump(oil pan)

Slacken off all screwsholding the oil sump.
Remove all screws except fro four.
It is reccommended that four screws in the corners of the sump are left in place
Carefully tap the sump with a rubber mallet until the joint and its liquid gasket releases.
Remove the remaining screws.
Remove the sump.

Cleaning

Clean the gasket surfaces on the oil sump and cylinder block.
Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and gasket solvent P/N 1161440

Warning Use a fume hood or extractor when using gasket solvent.(Fan if inside a garage)

Installing the oil pan

Apply liquid gasket P/N 1161 059-9 to the sump use roller P/N 951 2767 (Or mini roller from hardware store)

Install new o-rings
The oil sump.
Secure it loosely with a few screws.
Then the remaining screws.


Press the pump against the transmission
Tighten the screws (1),(2),(3) and (4) to 3Nm.

First tighten the screws (5) to 25Nm.
Then tighten to 48 Nm.
Tighten all screws in the sump joint to 17 Nm.
Start at the transmisson and continue fowards in pairs.
Install the screw for the bracket for the fuel line.
Connect the oil cooler to the sump.
Use new o-rings.
Reinstall the pipe to the subframe.

Install
A new oil filter
The oil drain plug with a new o-ring
The dipstick and its pipe also use a new o-ring.


Note: check that all the o-rings are positions are correctly.

Fill the engine oil.
Run the engine to operating temp.
Check for oil leaks from the sump or the oil cooler.
Install the splash sheild under the engine.
Check the oil level.Top it off if needed.

Some more notes:
You may have to support the Right side of the engine and drop the subframe a little to get the pan out.

Have someone help you when installing the pan and watch the o-rings to make sure they do not fall while installing the pan.

Make sure when the pan is off you remove the pipe in the oil pan and replace those o-rings at the same time when you have it apart.

Also make sure you remove the oil pick up tube and replace that o-ring.

I think that is about all.
If there is anymore quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry but I don't have the part# for the o-ring kit but the dealer sells it as a kit.

If the engine oil was just changed like say, anywhere between under a month, can both the engine oil and oil filters be reused?

:grin:

It probably could but it is better to be safe that sorry.
Me I would just replace both.Maybe that is just me.

Sorry for the cheapskate question, Tech.

:harhar:

No problem!!! :D

Hello,

Is this someone with modest mechanical skills can handle?

Does anyone know of competent Volvo mechanics in Westchester or Dutchess counties in NY?

Thanks

You may want to be fairly handy with the tools to be able to do this well. And I think you're description of 'modest mechanical' skill may be just enough. Read through the instructions while looking at your engine. Then visualise it.

If then you think you can, then I am sure you can.
:)
Go, Go, 95_850_Turbo!

I am getting ready to do this on my 1996 850 non turbo, the power steering lines look to be in the way. Has anyone done this fix without having to fulling remove the power steering lines completely? Or just removing the mounting bolts will allow the lines to move enough to provide clearance?

My notes to this thread,

I did this service on my 1996 850 non turbo today and would like to add the following to the steps.
1.After draining the oil, remove the cap of the power steering fluid reservoir and using a suction device remove as much fluid as you can.
2.Remove the high pressure hose from the pump and cover pump end and hose end with something to keep dirt out. I used plastic baggies with aluminum foil over the plastic to hold in place.
3.Remove the low pressure hose and suck as much fluid out of that hose as possible then cover the pump connection and hose end.
4.Now the hard part. After releasing the mounting points of the ridged parts of the power steering lines pull them down about 10 inches am move them to the right side of the car (passenger side USA) with will involve bending :o the lines and it was the only way to get the pan out!

Post mortem,
The “valve rattle” is still present but there is plenty of oil in the top end so I am beginning to think that the “valve rattle” is an injector going bad.
On a up side to this service is that I had what was thought to be a rear main seal leaking but once the pan was off it looked like the leak was at the back of the pan so I am keeping my fingers crossed that this just solved another problem.

Thanks for the tips, Owen!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/gitara.gif) Hi there; could anyone out there please direct me to a site where I could download a pdf instruction file regarding replacement of the 1998 s40 t4 oil sump o-ring kit; and where I could possibly download a repair manual for this car. volvo says that my engin block would probably be condemned when I bring the car in to hav the cylinder head removed for valve stem seal replacement; just because my car has 205k on the clock. are they serious?
My car is not even smoking!!! My ford laser 1600i hardly had signs of bore wear @ 350k even after nailing it in the red from new @ 0km. thanx seanbr

I am trying to replace the oil sump on a 1999 C70 convertible. I followed these instructions but am having trouble removing the old sump. I seems to be stuck on the frame on the passanger side. Does anybody have a bit of advice on how to get the sump out?" Do I have to lift the engine?

Any help would be very appreciated!!!
Josh