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> Oil Pan Leaking, Pls help!!!!!
Saukarji
post Oct 13 2008, 12:26 PM
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My 90 Volvo 240 is leaking oil from the front side of the oil pan (Engine oil, not the transmission oil). Looks like the oil pan gasket may be shot. Has anyone replaced gasket on these things? Haynes manuel makes it look like it's not all that difficult to lower the oil pan but is that really true? The Bentley manual does not mention anything about how to lower the oil pan. Other postings I saw on this said either the 240s don't need gasket replacement or go to the mechanic. Any idea? How challenging is this task?
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robert240
post Oct 13 2008, 02:26 PM
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See:
http://cleanflametrap.com/oilpan/

It says that once a power steering hose is removed then you should be able to rotate and remove the oil pan.
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Saukarji
post Oct 22 2008, 04:13 PM
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I have been looking in this forum for alternate solutions (or possibly other causes for the oil leak) and found that a clogged flame trap could be causing the pressure in the oil chamber to build which would force the oil out the oilpan gasket. I checked the flame trap. Looked clean. I could not feel the air coming out of the hose that plugs into the flame trap jig, at least it was difficult to detect with the cooling fan running. Plugged the hose with my finger for 4 or 5 seconds and let go. I could then feel the built up hot air come out of the hose. Does this mean the oil separator (or whatever sits below the flame trap) is ok? Or should I take the oil separator out and check it? Of course my main aim is to see if the oil leak from the oil pan is due to the increased pressure in the chamber due to clogged oil separator or flame trap. Trying to avoid taking on a one or two days project like taking the oil pan down.

Any advice?
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manxman
post Oct 22 2008, 06:13 PM
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remove oil filler cap, start motor and observe/feel airflow out of motor-should not be much. If throws oil spray about-prob too much-indicates worn rings(?)-and, from what you've done, a blocked oil trap. My B230F: easier to unbolt manifold & plastic oil trap to remove it for cleaning. NB if you use a solvent, it must be completely dry before refitting, or you will seriously dilute your engine oil. Also, blocked ventilation hoses can be a problem. Replace any hose that has gone hard or cracked, CAUTION: Old fuel lines can leak and cause fires-the return hose from fuel regulator is particularly bad at this age. (Personal experience). Tightening the clamp does nothing, the rubber is already permanently compressed, and shortening it back for re-fit is not easy/safe. you could use a metal joiner & a short new piece of hose but I have my doubts as to the safety of that. Perhaps a factory safety notice should be issued for all mechanics.
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Saukarji
post Oct 23 2008, 09:08 AM
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Maxman, what do you mean by "observe airflow out of the motor"? Which motor? When I open the oil filler cap the oil gets sprayed all over (not too heavy, but it does get sprayed all around the filler opening). Are you suggesting this may be due to worn rings? Which rings? Or is it due to clogged oil trap? Can you pls elaborate little more on your motor comment and on the worn ring comment? Thanks much for your hints.

David
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robert240
post Oct 23 2008, 09:21 AM
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You can also do the dancing oil cap test - put the cap on loose and start the engine and see if it dances around due to excessive gases being released from the crankcase cover. Worn rings on the pistons will allow "blow-by" or compressed air to escape into the block.

The flame trap - was it white plastic with holes? All the holes were un-plugged?

You'll want to determine if the leak is from the pan gasket or one of the front seals ...
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nice86
post Oct 23 2008, 05:27 PM
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In addition to the oil cap test, you can try this. Remove the oil filler cap. Start the engine and let it idle. Placing your hand over the oil filler hole you should feel a slight suction (2"-3" of water using a pressure tester). If oil is being blown out of that oil filler hole the flame trap or oil separator is possibly clogged up.

Mine was clogged up solid after being "serviced" by my Volvo dealer for years.
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Saukarji
post Nov 2 2008, 09:35 AM
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Did the oil cap test, not conclusive result. Then did the 'blow into the hose' test (took the flame trap hose off and attached a separate hose to the hose coming from the oil separator and blew into the hose with the oil filler cap off. I was able to blow into the hose without any difficulty. The air came out of the oil filler hole). Concluded that the oil separator was not clogged. Finally tracked the source of the oil leak. Not the oil pan gasket, but the oil pressure switch just above the oil pan on the side of the engine wall below the exhaust manifold.

Now I have take the oil pressure switch out. I will post question on that separately under a new topic (oil pressure switch topic).

Thanks everyone for your help!
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