can any one tell me the wire number for the headlight switch that i need to cut and splice to run a 12 v hot wire to to make the headlight switch light up AND the climate control light up? ...its a weird short some where involving the stereo and i cant find it so im going to rewire the lights on the dash......thanks for your time............................im half way there......

:460: NO.NO.NO.NO.NO....NOOOOOOOO! dont do that! :haha: the voltage levels are differ in the headlight circut, and the dash lights all are tapped into the pink
wire, but, if you have lights out in the climate box its mabey because they are blown? and the headlight switch light is inside the switch, if its out its out, get a replacement switch to fix that.

the shorts come from the chassis circuit protection. most of the lighting circuits are protected by fuses individualy. Example, cigarette lighter illumination fuse#10/37, gear selector light fuse#10/40. Even the warning lamps have protection; example, indicator lamp for SRS fuse#10/77.

Point is, if its powered, it has surge protection. My advice to you is to use a multimeter before you finalize any rewire job, you can cause major failures by accident. Even fog lamps if wired poorly will damage the circuits. Yes, even the speakers have a circuit protection, right front door fuse#16/3.

Sound confusing? it is... Trust a electrical tech for fixing shorts you cant figure out.
Now, dont get me wrong, it is possible to achieve what you want if your sure the lights do work and you can measure and install power resistors as needed. I once had to hard wire the heat temp control to a external switch, along with fan control, i toasted some other important things doing that. Lucky im schooled in automotive wireing. Saved me tons of shame and money. :thumbsup:
Please, just attempting to save a life. :P

and the light switch fuse#3/2
the climate control unit fuse#3/57
the climate panel lights fuse#3/55
the wire number that controls the lighting of the panel lights is:
#2C positive connect 0.75 volts (pink*)
#1C negative connect 0.75 volts (black)
* this wire code color is ran to all instrument and control lighting system circuits, but different voltages are required.

the power runs from #3/2 via a "permanent inner bulb" out positive wire#1 (pink) to a positive junction using a 0.35 voltage resistor in line, to the 14pin connector in the instrument panel harness on the firewall, out from that via 0.35 vlts (pink) to 4pin connector firewall harness to heater fan/A/C unit, then its voltage value rises to .75 (pink) and arrives to wire#2C.

thats what you asked for....... :lol:
lets us know the follow up :grin:
good luck! :thumbsup:

wonder if anythings "cooking" with this issue? :haha: :thumbsup: