Just had the oil changed in the volvo after about 3 years. Car was in storage, and has only had about 300 miles between. Now, when I start the car, the oil light stays on for about 3 seconds before it goes out. This didn't happen before the oil change. Last time it was changed, it was at a Volvo dealership for about 50 bucks. This time at a service station for about 18 bucks. Could it be the type of oil?? Fortunately, I was too stupid to ask what type or grade of oil they put in, so now I'm wondering if I need to change it again, or is that light on for 3-4 seconds OK??

Did they also change the filter? The filter might not be the correct type. Best to use a Volvo or Mann filter.

reset the light by pressing the button on the back of the speedo. You may have to remove the instrument cluster to do this-be careful which wire goes where. The big connectors are captive, and the catch needs releasing before they will come off. normal light interval is 5000mi /8000km.

Filter is a no-name. Would this be enough to cause the light to stay on for a few seconds?? Could this be an indication that the oil pump is going out??

Seems like evey time I try to save a few bucks, it cost's me more in the long run.

My guess would be oil filter also - its says nothing at all?

A good oil filter has an anti-drain back valve. Without it, oil drains out of the filter when the engine is off. When re-starting the engine it takes a few seconds for oil pressure to build up. Meanwhile the engine is starved for oil.

I would replace the oil filter with a Volvo or Mann immediately.

The filter on there is from "Parts Plus". Luckily there is a Volvo stealership within a mile of the house. I'll change it tomorrow, and let you know if that was it. Can't wait to se what Volvo wants for a filter.........

I can see how that thing would empty itself out, due to the angle it sits. Wouldn't that also pour dirt back down into the engine?

Filter cost me 11 bucks. Took it to the place that did the oil change, and the manager was cool, did it for free. Guy that did the swap was grumbling though. After he swapped the filter, he starts it and says "see, lights still on for about 5 seconds. Didn't fix it." I didn't say anything, but as I drove home, I couldn't believe he was that dumb. Now I can start it without the light being on for more than a split second.

Thanks for all your help,
-Sarge

So now with the new filter how long does the light stay on?

The light doesn't come on at all now(it goes off with all the other start up lights on the dash). I'll know for sure tomorrow or Saturday when the car has been sitting for a while.

You could have bought the Super Tech filter from Walmart for $3. It has the check valve. I typically use a filter w/o the check valve because it's much bigger and has a lot more capacity. Worrying about the oil light is not worth it. The rest of the car will fall apart long before the mechanical engine will go.

Well, I figure that in that 5 seconds, my engine is making at least 50 revolutions. Add to the fact that my car may sit for days or weeks at a time(I drive a company car), you have a very dry start. Multiply this out over the years, and for me, it is something to worry about. If my engine goes in 500 or 50,000 miles, I'll know it wasn't because I skipped on the oil filter. Also, I'll gladly pay 11 dollars for something made in Germany vice the 3 dollars walmart is going to split with china.

FCP has the MANN W-917 filter for about $4.

http://tinyurl.com/4u8l4u

It's hard to tell what is really going on without getting an oil pressure reading from a gauge. The oil pressure light should come on if the oil pressure drops below 7-8 p.s.i (0.5 Bar). A red block Volvo engine will peak at > 5 Bar (80 p.s.i.) when it's cold. If it was truly sitting at less than 8 p.s.i. for 5 seconds that can't be good.

Regarding non-return valves-t isn't "good" to not have them but the nature of oil wedges is that they build up quickly with movement. The motor isn't DRY, it just hasn't good pressure. It designed to accommodate many cold starts without pre-existing oil pressure, and it shouldn't matter sgnificantly in the long run. I'll admit that electric pre-pumps arre used commercially with significant results on larger engines where there are greater forces at work, but if you just crank and idle gently, without a blast of throttle, it should not be a great problem. That said, the cheap filters can use the USA made material in an Asian made casing, and some of them are good. I'm also satisfied that none of us would necessarily notice if non-return valves failed in service or not. I wouldn't see fit to complain too much if it took 30,000mi off my crank life, or my cam, but it makes little difference to my pistons & rings, whose wear is more usually the cause of troubles. IE I'm not aware that major crank/cam wear kills a cheaply filtered motor so much faster that it overtakes normal piston & ring wear as the mechanical cause of engine failure. Any increase of piston/ring wear rates would be small, as they are splash fed anyway, and can tolerate the short wait for some spray of extra lube. Cold starting would be more a significant source of wear. Regular long waits for oil pressure->say, 30 sec, is a source of concern, but I am aware that japanese m/cycles used to have non-return valve failures and have to wait 45-60 seconds for fresh cam lubrication. These motors would only last if the rider didn't take off/rev it madly before oil pressure was secured- but that is an extreme case type.