Hi Everyone-



About how much money can I plan on spending to replace the timing belt on an '82 DL wagon? I am (fairly) handy with cars, but hesistant to try a timing belt. How difficult is the procedure? Any good how-tos out on the web?

Thanks!
Daniel

my belt cost $20.00, OEM are abt $100, same brand diff box variable-$30-$75, depending...................

The job doesn't look hard, I'll confirm it myself in a few weeks when I do mine.

The timing belt is only $8 from FCP.

But that will be the least of your expense.

Might as well change the belt tensioner at the same time, that's about $23.

But first you need the crankshaft holding tool and that's $48 from IPD.

http://tinyurl.com/6nvahn

Satisfaction of doing it yourself: -- priceless.

c'shaft holding tool?????? pardon my ignorance, but isn't a socket and T bar good enough??? Explain pls? BTW "nice" answer! Priceless......

More correctly, Volvo special tool 5284 is used to hold the crankshaft pulley stationary while the center mounting bolt is loosened.

To get at the timing belt I have to remove the timing belt cover. To get the timing belt cover off I first have to remove the crankshaft pulley, and before that all the V-belts. If I simply put a socket wrench on that bolt and start turning, the whole crankshaft turns and I get nowhere.

There may be alternatives. Sometimes an impact wrench on the pulley bolt will loosen it, especially air driven. Some people use the rope trick, which is to remove a spark plug, stuff a cylinder with a piece of clothesline, and turn the crankshaft pulley until the piston has compressed the rope into the top of the cylinder and further movement is restricted.

I don't have air. I don't particularly like the rope trick. And I already have the 5284 tool. So that's what I do.

A method given to me by a veteran Volvo mechanic for our '85 240 dl (auto):

You will need two people to do this. One is under the car (ramps or jack stands); remove one of the 'vents' for the transmission. With the largest, flat bladed screwdriver you have, insert it through the opening, and use the blade of the screwdriver to 'jam' the torque converter. The other assistant uses a long handle on the socket drive to release the crankshaft/harmonic balance bolt. Another method, I vaguely recall (same mechanic) is to take a long handled socket drive, place it over the harmonic balance®/crankshaft bolt, and hold it in place (with room for re-coil). Have an assistant very briefly crank the engine. This will torque the bolt enough to release the tension and remove it. I have used both methods, but the first one used is the one I have used most frequently. Having my wife crank the engine with me under it is a little unnerving. I only convey this for those who have enough understanding to realize this can be a very dangerous method. USE AT YOUR OWN PERIL!!!!!

The first method works, you need two fairly strong individuals to achieve this.

Outside of this method, a impact wrench will do the job (electric ones are available and involve less than air driven tools.) The only drawback to electric impacts is the size of the tool, it is much larger than air-driven tools.

Good Luck.

Thank you for the explanation. I understand now that it's not as simple as I thought. I could refit the crank bolt after everything is off the shaft, but I'm not certain that's good enough. It might then need a spacer???? electric crank is risky, esp if it fires up! I have an air wrench, and a radiator replacement is now due.

Check: How to change a cam belt

On the crank locking tool - this is most helpful on automatic Volvos as you can't lock the transmission so that the crankshaft is stopped when the rear brakes are on. You can do this with a manual transmission, but it's still tough. I had to put it in reverse gear with the hand brake on to get the crankshaft bolt loose with a 18" breaker bar. I tried the cranking trick (with the coil wire removed) but you need a longer bar to do that and it is a little risky.

i'm with you :banana:

the first week i had my 240 the timing belt snapped at 3am in some ghetto.

The only advice is to try it and learn in the process, its a **** to deal with the tensioner but its manageable. Oh and make sure that the dots on all the pulleys are lined up, there should be a diagram somewhere.

The simplest way to remove the crank bolt is this. It works in most cars.

First, disconnect the coil wire so the car doesn't start when you crank the motor.

Get a large 3/4 breaker bar, and the socket (what is it? 1 inch? 19mm?)

Put the breaker bar and the socket on the bolt, and wedge the opposite end of the breaker bar on the ground (like I do) or on the body someplace. The trick is to turn the starter motor over while the breaker bar holds the bolt stationary.

Bump the starter key over and VOILA! The bolt magically breaks loose! No muss, no fuss. No broken knuckles or climbing under the car. No broken flywheel teeth.

More notes:

Timing belt replacement on a 240 is probably the easiest and quickest timing belt you'll ever do.

FCP is the best place for the belt. They sell Continental, which is clearly a much better quality belt.

Make sure to do a timing belt "adjustment" after 10,000 miles. Remove the rubber plug from the front of the timing belt cover. Loosen the bolt inside ONE easy turn, then tighten it back up. A one minute proceedure. This will keep you belt tight.

I've replaced timing belts on the B21 several times and I've NEVER had to remove the crank pulley. Perhaps the B23/B230 is different? Should take about an hour for a well-equipped home mechanic.

The B21 and B23 you can change the timing belt without removing the crankshaft pulley. The B230 and 85 and most newer engines you have to remove the crankshaft pulley.