I just got done having the dealer install a new neutral safety switch and a new shiftlock solenoid. And immediately after getting home I have a new problem: Just about every time I try to start, the engine cranks, then suddenly stops cranking before it starts. If I listen carefully I can hear the starter(?) spinning down (a whirring sound that lasts for no more than a second). The I release the key, turn it off, try again and usually it cranks and starts. A couple times (this has been two days now) it takes several tries.

Sounds like the solenoid is not staying engaged. Seem correct?

If that's correct, how do I determine whether the problem is the starter solenoid or the ignition swith? I have noticed flaky things from my ignition switch last winter - it would seem to stick in the 'start' position instead of just releasing back to 'on' when I release my thumb pressure on the key. But rarely and only when cold.

Then again - could any of this have to do with the repairs i just paid the dealer to do?

Thanks to all who have any ideas...

Battery is up to the job, I assume? switches wear, lots when there's a heavy weight on the keychain. You've had switch trouble-so the starter prob has been left engaged a few times too many. expect wear in it. Bad wires also cause starters to stop unexpectedly. If a modest "technical tap" on the starter solenoid makes no difference, then it's prob. the switch. If the gear mesh was bad, you'd expect to hear it scream and grind, but.....Solenoids rust up, and stop working well. fix them with emery paper, cleanup and a smear of lithium/waterproof grease. Check contacts and the contact plate whilst you're there-clean them carefully-do NOT leave ANY wastes in the solenoid. Make sure the connections are clean and tight enough, without over-doing it. Use a wire brush on large contacts and bolts, nuts, and cable ends. Do NOT re-fit any cracked or broken parts-replacements are avail from auto electrician. Check to see the yoke has easy full range of movement against the spring. examine pinion gear for damage/wear-and its outer bearing prob needs replacing-its a hand fit, not hard. Check commutator for wear and brushes for adequate length-most brushes have a wear limit mark-you'll need that +abt 2mm min to be worthwhile NOT replacing them now. damage/burn marks or wear groves on commutator need machining off and the mica will have to be undercut-usually an experts job. Do NOT strike exposed end of commutator with ANYTHING-u risk distorting the strips under the brushes-which will cause them to 'eat' the brushes very quickly. Only cure is re-machine commutator/replace armature and replace brushes. DO check in the hole to see that the ring gear is ok! Check solenoid connector for clean, and make sure you battery, motor and chassis have good Earth connections-in god condition with clean cable ends- under the nuts!. If you have trouble cranking, persist a few seconds more, then feel CAREFULLY for hot spots-only the battery and starter motor should get hot first-cables and switches hot indicates bad connection or long cranking >25 secs.