I have a 1989 Volvo 240 DL with a 4 cylinder engine. Who ever had the car before me ran over something and it smashed the oil pan in. All though it doesn't really leak, the mechanic said I need to replace it. The shop wants to charge 390.00(with gasket) to do so. I would like to try and find a used part off of ebay and try to put it on myself at my step dads house because I'm poor. I already did a search on google, but I can't find exactly what pan model it is. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
-darin

To me, an engine pan is just an open metal floor in the engine bay to protect the motor/catch rubbish. A sump is the oil carrying steel box under the crankshaft.

you obviously mean the actual sump itself-if so, CHECK your oil pickup on the motor when u take the sump off, it MAY be bent, loose, or damaged-so CHECK it carefully.
The gasket is cheap enough, but I don't know if the sump can be removed without lifting the motor somewhat to clear the crossmember etc. Others will know, but please be careful, and the job may have been quoted cheaper than it really is if the motor has to almost come out to do it, or at least suffer separation from the tranny???? Sorry to be so harsh, but it must be considered.

Sounds kind of silly. First, if the thing doesn't leak, and the bottom crank doesn't hit it, then it sounds like it's not a problem. Second, the oil pan is really tough and hard, you'd have to REALLY hit something hard to really damage it. Why does the mechanic want to replace it anyway? Third...$395? Is the whole car worth that much? Just drive it till the wheels fall off. If you must replace it, probably any oil pan from a car fro 87 to 93 (including 940s and 740) would probably fit. If you go to a "U-pull" junkyard, you'll make all the mistakes and find out how hard it is to remove before you do anything to your car.

oil sump capacity becomes critical when it starts getting too low on hot days or longer runs. That's good enough for me to replace a compromised sump capacity. even 1/2L low could be too much under the 'right' conditions. Long term-it leads to early motor failure unless you increase the frequency of oil changes to compensate, because your re-circulation cycle becomes too short for the oil to keep cool, The less oil you have, the sooner the hot oil goes thru' the motor again, gaining more heat. Eventually the oil overheats and turns to porridge-by then, it's too late for your engine to survive, if it will run that long. Oil lubricates & COOLS motors, it's not safe for most motors to run hyperlubricant coatings with no liquid in the motor for long periods-10yrs plus. I've seen the hype and adverts of driving 2-3000mi without oil. That's NOT 2-300,000mi without oil, & I've NEVER seen figures for that. BTW if you try this, stuff, keep the sump plug in-it keeps the water/dust out. Be prepared to lose your motor before it would otherwise fail. (TYP. 350-400,000)mi.