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> Resetting Volvoguard Alarm On 1995 940, Questions surrounding resetting VG alarm
PAW1212
post Aug 8 2008, 04:35 PM
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Location: Southampton, UK
Drives: 1995 940 Wagon



I have a Volvo Guard alarm fitted to a 1995 940, which has entered an the active-immobilised state. Essentially it has been triggered several times without the remote control fob present to enable it to be disabled. Even with the remote available, it is still not possible to disable or reset the alarm. It is also not possible to start the vehicle.

The remote control fob has been checked and is apparently transmitting.
The remote control batteries have been replaced to ensure maximum transmission signal.
The alarm has been allowed to has been allowed to trigger, run until the timer ends and the alarm shuts off. The remote key fob has then been reprogrammed to the alarm (the 5-key turn technique).

The dealer has told me that the alarm has probably locked-out and the vehicle will need to be towed in to be reset by them.

The remote control fob is the grey single button, rectangular type with the blue frequency band indicator.
The transmitter is using a UK-allocated frequency with a UK market vehicle.
The alarm has previously worked with the remote control fob, so it is presumably the correct model/type and correctly programmed to the vehicle.
The alarm has the triangular, windscreen A-pillar mounted status panel/transceiver.

I therefore have the following questions:-

1 - Is it possible to reset the alarm control unit off the vehicle?

2 - Does resetting the alarm control unit require the remote fob to be available?

3 - Is the bonnet sensor simply a magnetically operated reed switch?

4 - What are the states of the bonnet sensor with the bonnet open/closed?

5 - How do I tell if the alarm is just an alarm or an alarm/immobiliser?

6 - What are the designations of the three connectors plugged into the alarm control unit?
The top of the unit has a green 10-pin connector
The bottom of the unit has two 9-pin connectors, one pink, one black
These connectors appear to correspond to the drawing of the cabin cable harness (Part #9124692) shown in the parts catalogue.
However, the connectors do not seem to correspond to the D2 or D3 connectors shown in the main Volvo Wiring Manual, or are D2/D3 on the other end of the cabin cable harness?

7 - Was the VolvoGuard system a factory-only install, or was it also fitted pre-delivery by dealers?

8 - Were there any permanent changes made to the vehicle wiring circuits during the installation of VolvoGuard?
I.e wires cut, circuits bridged, jumpers installed, wiring changes made, etc

9 - If the alarm control unit is replaced (due to failure), do any other ECUs have to be replaced or reprogrammed to match the replacement unit?


Photos of VolvoGuard Receiver Unit (2), Control Unit (3) and Window Label (1).
Attached File(s)
Attached File  VolvoGuard_RecieverUnit1.JPG ( 78.56K ) Number of downloads: 211
Attached File  VolvoGuard_RecieverUnit3.JPG ( 80.2K ) Number of downloads: 213
Attached File  VolvoGuard_ControlUnitFrontView.JPG ( 103.5K ) Number of downloads: 227
Attached File  VolvoGuard_ControlUnitTopView.JPG ( 72.88K ) Number of downloads: 207
Attached File  VolvoGuard_ControlUnitBottomView.JPG ( 82K ) Number of downloads: 264
Attached File  VolvoGuard_WindowLabel.JPG ( 82.79K ) Number of downloads: 158
 
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Sean Ng
post Sep 20 2008, 01:50 AM
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Location: United Kingdom
Drives: 1993 Volvo 960



Hi PAW1212

I have exactly the same problem with my 1993 Volvo 960. Having searched several websites/forums, I understand that it is possible to disable the immobilizer by putting a wire in between the 10-pin 210-211 device and creating a short-circuit. After that, the car should be able to be re-started.

For me, I have not tried it yet as I would like to search more for: (1) the location of the 210-211 device; and (2) exactly how to short-circuit the 210-211 device.

I wonder if you have been successfuly in re-starting your Volvo and share your experience with me, in particular to the 2 areas as mentioned above.

Regards
Sean
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JeremyJ
post Sep 21 2008, 10:11 AM
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Location: UK
Drives: 1997 volvo 940 se turbo



I to have same alarm system, mine has not triggered imobiliser just stopped auto lock on doors. Left interior light on for a week so battery was flat. Have been told I can reset alarm any ideas as not in owners handbook, thanks
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Sean Ng
post Sep 25 2008, 12:12 AM
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Location: United Kingdom
Drives: 1993 Volvo 960



Hi Jeremy,

For disabling immobilizer, looks like have to jumper 50E and 50F of the alarm control module connector as shown on the above photo number 5.

Will have a go (think it should be behind or below the glove box) and see if I can find the said 210-211 device (should be called alarm control module, I think) and the related connector. If successful, will try jumpering 50E and 50F pins.

Will keep you posted.

Cheers
Sean
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Sean Ng
post May 25 2009, 05:02 AM
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Location: United Kingdom
Drives: 1993 Volvo 960



QUOTE (Sean Ng @ Sep 25 2008, 06:12 AM)
Hi Jeremy,

For disabling immobilizer, looks like have to jumper 50E and 50F of the alarm control module connector as shown on the above photo number 5.

Will have a go (think it should be behind or below the glove box) and see if I can find the said 210-211 device (should be called alarm control module, I think) and the related connector. If successful, will try jumpering 50E and 50F pins.

Will keep you posted.

Cheers
Sean



Dear All

I have eventually sorted out the problem on my 1993 Volvo 960.

First of all, I find my car works on a different security system. There is no "210-211 device" in my car. One of the attached photos shows the location of the relays, and I have circled out the engine immobilizer relay - the white relay marked with big letter M and coded 1 362 895. Photo 02 shows the relay assembly of bigger scale, and I have circled out the same relay.

To disable the engine immobilizer, take the white relay out, and the procedures are as follows:
(1) Disconnect the negative cable of battery, and put it away preventing from accidental contact with the battery pole. I put the cable into a plastic bag for double insurance.
(2) Uncover the the relays unit by dissembling the panel below the dashboard of the driver side; and
(3) Unplug the white relay with care.
(4) Reconnect the negative cable back to the battery.
(5) Start the engine and it should work as the engine is not immobilized any more.

I think the above should also work on a 850.

Hope this leaves a reference useful to those who need it.

Sean Ng
Attached File(s)
Attached File  Volvo_960_Engine_Immobilizer_Relay_01.JPG ( 197.78K ) Number of downloads: 264
Attached File  Volvo_960_Engine_Immobilizer_Relay_02.JPG ( 148.75K ) Number of downloads: 227
 
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cantorhome
post Aug 22 2009, 02:17 AM
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Location: El Cajon, CA
Drives: 1994 Volvo 960 and 1988 Volvo Bertone 780



I had the same problem with the alarm not responding to the remote and the immobilizer activated, and I was able to fix it. I have yet a slightly different configuration than Sean's, although also without the 210-211 device. My relays look similar to Sean's pictures, but my "M" relay is blue and it's actually the door chime relay, unrelated to the immobilizer as far as I can tell. My brick is a '94 960 wagon.

To get my immobilizer turned off and the alarm responding to the remote again, I followed these steps with success:

1. Think happy thoughts. Positive vibes are crucial.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable for a few seconds, then reconnect it.
3. Close the hood and all the doors. Try the remote - if the alarm responds to it, the happy thoughts worked. If not, follow the remaining steps...
4. Remove the Volvo Guard alarm control box under the driver dash (flat black box the size of a cigarette box with "Volvo Guard" on the outside).
3. Turn key to position II.
4. Hot-wire the starter by connecting the terminals together for the red and pink wires where you removed the Volvo Guard box. Be very careful to connect the correct wires (red and pink connected to each other), as connecting wrong wires can cause spectacular fireworks, lots of white smoke, burnt wires, and death by electrocution (not that I connected the wrong wires of course).
5. Once the car is running, plug the Volvo Guard box back in.
6. With the car still running and all the doors closed, push the button on the remote. If the alarm responds as usual, you're back to having a working alarm. If not, follow the remaining steps...
7. Turn the car off.
8. Disconnect the battery.
9. Turn the key in the ignition to position II.
10. Reconnect the battery.
11. Turn the key from position II to start. That should deactivate the alarm and immobilizer, and you'll be able to start the car normally from now on. You won't have a working alarm, but at least the car will start, which is always nice.
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christian.s
post Mar 7 2010, 03:10 PM
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Location: sweden
Drives: volvo 940 se



QUOTE (Sean Ng @ May 25 2009, 11:02 AM)
Dear All

I have eventually sorted out the problem on my 1993 Volvo 960.

First of all, I find my car works on a different security system. There is no "210-211 device" in my car. One of the attached photos shows the location of the relays, and I have circled out the engine immobilizer relay - the white relay marked with big letter M and coded 1 362 895. Photo 02 shows the relay assembly of bigger scale, and I have circled out the same relay.

To disable the engine immobilizer, take the white relay out, and the procedures are as follows:
(1) Disconnect the negative cable of battery, and put it away preventing from accidental contact with the battery pole. I put the cable into a plastic bag for double insurance.
(2) Uncover the the relays unit by dissembling the panel below the dashboard of the driver side; and
(3) Unplug the white relay with care.
(4) Reconnect the negative cable back to the battery.
(5) Start the engine and it should work as the engine is not immobilized any more.

I think the above should also work on a 850.

Hope this leaves a reference useful to those who need it.

Sean Ng

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christian.s
post Mar 7 2010, 03:47 PM
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Location: sweden
Drives: volvo 940 se



Hi.. i have tha same problem with my 940 se..and the "210-211 device"
And i have been search over the hole internet for some help.. and i have read all at this forum.and every else
I hope that everyone here did fix the broblem with the ALARM PROBLEM that some have solution to..
And i have some idea of this aswell. i tryed all those things with the relays and try jumpering the system.
It maby i like my broblem, that i did see.. it was an relay how have stuck in some way.. so i just take the (-)negative kable to contact with the battery (-)pole. and knock some times, and at the same time look at the controlldisplay in the frontwindow to see that the alarm did get back to normal status..
So fore me it was just a simple problem,, with som relay (short circuit ) ( someware )?? And i have the "210-211 device"
But i did get the problem in the beginning when my battery whent down and have to start the engine with an another car.

release the negative cable from the battery and knock carefuly the negetive cable to the nagative battery pole,3-4 times.
So now all my system works, alarm,dors,enginepump
it did work for me...

Christian
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lister
post May 5 2011, 05:53 AM
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Location: england
Drives: 1994 volvo 940



Hi all. I've been having problems with my 940 alarm. I've found this page searching on google.
Joined and thought i'd share what i've found.
Mines is a 1994 940 wentworth that has the 210-211 control module. if you search around the wiring you'll find a 15amp fuse. Remove that and your car will start and work fine. Ok the alarm wont work but atleast you wont be without your wheels....
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Gemini02
post Feb 15 2015, 02:48 PM
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Location: UK
Drives: 940 LPT Auto Estate, 940 HPT Auto Estate, 240 GLT Man Est, 850 GLT Auto Est



Quick update for those who still have this issue finding the Alarm Module. Having read this and other threads, I took to looking behind the dash, pulled out the glove box and even removed the radio POD in order to get to the relays behind the fuses normally accessed by removing the ashtray. Then attempted to look behind the drivers side console cover.... suffice to say I couldn't find it anywhere. In desperation I turned the ignition on and followed the relay "clicking" for the hazard lights and low and behold the box was found!

Interestingly it was hidden in a plastic over-wrap and cable-tied above the diagonal brace for the dash right up behind the lights switch. There is a massive amount of wiring so once the cable tie was released the box could be taken down into free space complete with its wiring loom.

Now interestingly, if like me your Key Fob has died with no hope of repair or obtaining a spare and you have decided to remove the whole module, then I can confirm that this is what I have done with no ill effects. I disconnected the numerous connectors and chopped the wires coming down from above the dash being the control unit and the break glass sensor. The one plug that needs attention is the larger two wire plug as described in previous articles (blue and Green)that needs a jump or chop the plug with enough cable to join the two and re-insert.

Hope this is helpful and suggests there is yet another variant for the location of Volvo Guard 1 module (single grey fob with blue band).

If anyone has a use for the module I have removed, just let me know. I am South Worcestershire if you fancy picking it up.

Next job is to repair the offside door retainer spring that broke.Anyone know how to access the bolts on the frame side?

This post has been edited by Gemini02: Feb 15 2015, 03:00 PM
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