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> Volvo 240 Speaker Replacements, What works...
mwveenhu
post Jan 3 2007, 05:03 PM
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I don't think you can fit 6x9's back there without modifying the metal. Why don't you install them in the lower passenger's doors? I did that and it sounds pretty damn good. Just use the template that comes with any speaker set and cut out holes in the door panels with a jigsaw.

If you want 6x9's I have heard of people mounting them in speaker boxes on the rails for the rear seatbelts. But that can be hard and precarious.

It was said in this thread already, but crutchfield.com is an invaluable source for audio equipment. They can tell you exactly what will fit and such.
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vancouver83ltd
post Jan 3 2007, 05:25 PM
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the problem with crutchfield is that they only list what CAN work - if you modify.
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mwveenhu
post Jan 3 2007, 05:28 PM
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True, true. I guess you'll just have to experiment. Ever thought of roof mounting some 6x9 boxes?
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vancouver83ltd
post Jan 9 2007, 05:53 AM
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my issue is I don't want to have anything other than factory appearance whenever possible.
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mwveenhu
post Jan 9 2007, 09:57 PM
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I see. Well just see what fits. I mean if you can find an old shitty 6x9 then just test it. Bring it in and see where it fits and how.
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bclinch
post Jan 24 2007, 12:52 PM
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I was able to put 6.5" Polks with a seperate tweeter in the rear deck without having to cut any metal.
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bclinch
post Jan 24 2007, 01:10 PM
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In the event that you cannot get a wiring diagram, there is an easy test for speaker wiring. Take a D (flashlight) battery and touch the ends of the speaker wire to the + and - posts on the battery. You will hear a popping sound from the effected speaker. You can then tell phase by having someone look at the speaker as you touch the wires to the battery, when the cone of the speaker pushes out you have the + speaker wire on the + post of the battery.
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outspoken
post Jan 25 2007, 04:05 PM
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QUOTE(bclinch @ Jan 24 2007, 01:10 PM)
IYou can then tell phase by having someone look at the speaker as you touch the wires to the battery, when the cone of the speaker pushes out you have the + speaker wire on the + post of the battery.


nice! i'm going with polk also, or mb quartz. one downside about my driver side door is the speaker ripped loose and rivet took a chunk of the door along with it so mounting up is going to look ugly. i'm going to try and maintain the stock look by re-using the black grills that came with the 240, hopefully i can get it mounted up cleanly.

thanks for all the tips guys. one thing that will certainly not look stock is the cd player, not much that can be done there. as long as the mount stays relatively flush i'll be in good shape.
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MowingOverHondas
post Feb 8 2007, 02:05 PM
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...My friend found these for his Dodge Intrepid audiophile addiction project...

Does anyone see a problem with these fitting into the stock holes in a 244/240/whatever??

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5470.html#
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mwveenhu
post Feb 11 2007, 09:20 PM
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QUOTE(MowingOverHondas @ Feb 8 2007, 03:05 PM)
...My friend found these for his Dodge Intrepid audiophile addiction project...

Does anyone see a problem with these fitting into the stock holes in a 244/240/whatever??

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5470.html#
[right][snapback]50669[/snapback][/right]



Yeah. They are massively too thick. Unless you mount them somewhere with alot of back clearance, I wouldn't get them.
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sergitin32
post Jan 5 2008, 04:08 AM
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I am almost done with my audio system, but still cant fine any speakers to fit my front doors since the original one is gone... is there any recomendation to make that funny frame to fit any smaller speakers and grab it to the door panel? so once the grill is on it looks the same?

thanks...

as for replying the thread once you get the player just check out the manual, and it will tell you wich wires go where, its not difficult... just a matter of phasing the speakers to know which is positive or negative as someone said in another reply here... and find the power wires for the player... generally it would need one wire with power all the time wich you can run from the battery, the clock, etc... and one its on only when the switch is on for the accesories... this is i think pretty much the standard... then paring the wiring to the speakers as shown in the diagram reading the manual, and it's done!

i did had to cut some metal and open new holes since the ones on my volvo 240 dl 1983 were too close to the seat belt cover in the back...in the back i installed two 6x9 jensen three-way old speakers a friend gave me, had to make some repairs in one, but they sound very nice and they will last for a few more year if i dont crank them up... anyway if they brake, the system is on, so i would only need to replace the speakers...

thanx lots ,have fun!!!

sergitin
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dmeskis
post Feb 9 2008, 07:22 PM
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i've got a 1990 240 wagon with the amp behind the glove box. I'm looking to replace the works with new speakers, CD player, and possibly a pioneer eq./amp. the stock unit has the smaller square plug for the stereo and amp, not the bigger black rectangular pieces in some year cars. The wiring is totally different than what i'm used to. I'd love some help/diagrams if you have them.

don

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Hebrink01
post Mar 3 2008, 11:30 PM
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Hi There. I just bought a pretty clean 1990 240 DL Sedan. It came with a nice 50w X 4 channel pioneer deck already installed but I believe the speakers must be the originals. I have read the threads on this speaker forum and have benefited from the wealth of information. I have small black boxes around the speaker grilles in the front doors, and similar looking frames and grilles near the bottom of the rear doors. Does this sound like 4" speakers all the way around?

If so, I was wondering if anyone had an opinion on these 4" Polk Audio Speakers (db400):

http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/speakers/4/

Driver Complement
Mid/Woofer 1 - 4" Diameter (10.16cm)
Polymer/Mica Composite cone with rubber surround
Tweeter 1 - 3/4" Diameter (1.91cm)
Silk/Polymer composite dome

Electrical
Overall Frequency Response 85Hz-22kHz
Nominal Impedance 4 ohms
Power Handling (continuous) 45 w
Power Handling (peak) 135 w
Efficiency 91 dB

Driver Mounting Depth
Bottom Mount 1-15/16" (4.92cm)

Thanks!
-Ryan
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Teenonator
post Jul 31 2008, 11:39 PM
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Here's a tip. I just R&Rd the front & rear speaks in my 91 240, & rather than pull the door panels, I inserted the mounting screws from inside the door, then cinching them down using speed nuts, then the screws function as studs. I got American International 3/4" speaker risers from Mobile Emotions, so the speaks clear the windows no problem. However, the OEM front speaks are 5 1/4 & the door handles won't allow that large, so I went with Metrik 4" front & rear, & they work a treat.
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Teenonator
post Aug 4 2008, 01:52 PM
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Here's a couple of stages for this. BTW, lock washers are much better between the screw heads & the panel, & you want to cinch down the speed nuts. Cheers
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Attached File  DSCF0579.JPG ( 160.54K ) Number of downloads: 18
 
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