Hi all,
I purchased a 1992 940 turbo sedan about 2 months ago. Has run without fail until about 3 weeks ago when it just wouldn't start when I came out from work one afternoon. It would crank just fine, it just wouldn't "catch" and start to run if that makes sense. It finally did start and ran fine for the next couple of days. Then while sitting idling waiting for someone, it just died again. It has now happened at a couple of red lights too. Same scenario, usually just sitting or inching to a stop and it will idle down and die. After usually waiting for a minute or two then trying it, it will crank several times, then catch and run. If I try to immediately restart, it will just crank and crank. I have noticed that it idles low, even when in park, at about 700-800. When I am in drive and come to a stop, it usually drops to about 500, sometimes dipping below that. I have gotten on the highway and floored it and it will jump and run without hesitation and have never died with a foot on the accelerator. I am assuming that this is some kind of dirty fuel component, but am unsure of where to start in trying to remedy this. It has several electrical hitches also, power seats stopped working, antennae switch not working, etc, so I need to get a good repair manual anyway and wasn't sure which was better, a Haynes or a Chilton. I don't want to spend hundreds at a Volvo dealership getting this fixed if it is something I can do myself. Thanks anyone for any help y'all can give me.
Cheryl

have a search on here for ignition amplifier, there will be a lot of posts as this is a common problem. How many miles has yours done? they usually break down around 70k to 150k. It could be this.

It could also be the constant idle system, but i doubt you will have this as its a 1992 model and will probably have electronic fuel injection.

Matt

It has 165K miles on it, thanks for the info.

I'm having a similar problem with my 93 940; the idle drops and it stalls sometimes, mostly when decelerating. I ran the onboard diagnostic and the fuel code indicates a problem with the intake air controller valve; located under the throttle body; I am still looking for one at a junkyard that I can afford, as they run about 300-400 bucks new. A jury rig solution I read about is to place a metal washer in line to the IAC where the hose connects from the air filter assy; I duct taped the washer, punched a hole and put the hose back on; not a permanent solution, but it restricts the airflow enough to keep it from stalling til I can get another part.

You tried e bay for an IAC ? Fitted one of the cheapies on mine 6 months ago and it works fine
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-Idle-Air-control...id=p3286.c0.m14

yeah i think mine is on the way out as i have this problem, all i did was just put one more notch up on the throttle linkage hahaa

Hi ya'll..!

Looks like we're in this together.

Got me a 1992 940 Auto with EZ116K (I think) - whole new ball game compared to my 740 K-jet.

The RPM when warmed up idles about 950 (which I think is a little on the high side, but this is lower than what was originally idling about 1000 - I adjusted the throttle screw).

But when I switch on the air-con, it drops to about 650.

Then when I engage DRIVE, it further drops to about 500.

All in all it doesn't die on me, just jam on the pedal and away it goes.

As suggested by Mr Skyrider that it could be the air intake control valve, I've but one question - Can this item be removed and serviced..? We's Volvo people like to tinker...

:57:

driveforlife ... what your explaining there to be a problem isnt actually a problem. On any car once you start it and warm it up, then put the air con on whilst in park its putting strain on the engine because the engine is now powering the air con compressor... you loose a ton of power to this.

also when you put it in drive with or without air con, the revs will always drop a bit because its connecting the engine to the wheels ... the wheels arent moving so the fluid clutch / torque converter in your auto box is creating and taking the strain.

You can take the IAC valve out but i am not to sure on servicing them yourself :s

I just bought one off ebay.co.uk for £6 used mind, but it works better than my old one did ... and they are really really expensive if you buy them new - wouldnt even think about going to a dealer for one, they can smell you 30 miles off and instantly raise they're price 500%

Matt

Thanks Matt.

It's just that I've gotten used to the idea of having an air-con compensator (is that what it's called.?) on the 740, which dips but recovers to near pre-air-con idle.

I've gone the whole nine yards and couldn't find such item. I figured it's got to be the computer which controls the idle for all occasions and yet it doesn't die-off, - air intake via something called a Mass Air-Flow Sensor, timing, fuel mixture etc...etc...etc...

I suppose the intelligence put into the 940 will make it allright, but I can't help feel nervous everytime the air-con cuts in and the RPM drops...worse part is I'm not in control, graduating from the 244 and 240. I think I'll have to get used to it.

You got it right on the dealer prices, Doberman noses one and all - got bush-whacked by a £67 ignition switch. I got lucky last month when another 940 didn't passed our Govt Motor Inspection. Got the steering column, key-lock, ignition switch, power-steering rack, alternator and body rubber stripes for RM1500, that's about £250, wish I had more dosh - missed the alloy rims though.


Thanks again Matt & Everyone... :thumbsup:

air con compressor is what cuts in and makes the revs drop. you said you couldnt find the idle control valve. it will be under the inlet manifold and will have a pipe from *BEFORE* the throttle body going into it, a pipe leading out of it to the other side of the throttle body (after) and a 2 pin multiplug. its about 3 inches long and 1.5 in diameter

Matt

Yes,

I think I've found it - looks like an egg-roll with two tubes coming out of each end.

I'll get a mechanic friend to swap a test with the one he has...

Should have the result by next week.

Thanks a lot Matt.

Now the only thing I've left to do is get the auto box switched over to manual.

Dad said the auto-box moves a bit like someone who had 1/6 doz Big Macs and trying to ice-skate up-hill. - :P

you prepared for all the work involved in the gearbox switch? hammering of the tunnel, new bell housing on the engine, fitting all the clutch pedal box and other components, different length of the box etc?

Matt

Well, I'll be joining the mechanic friend in this project - more like an educational trip for kids.

I've had 3 confirmations that a 1988 240 5-speed geabox (which I suppose is the M57 version) will fit my B230FB engine.

I've managed to get a hold of a yard owner who's given me until mid Nov to take the item or I'll forfeit the 20 quid downpayment - fair 'nuff. It's a complete box with gear stick, knobs and all. However, I've got to source the pedals rack (?) from a 740 to match.

The other main concern would be the drive-shaft. I suspect it would require something longer...? There's a chap called Paul DeMeo who altered his 780 auto to manual, but I suppose it would be different for the 940. The rest is readily available. The bell housing part on Paul's page is kinda scary though..

Anyways, I've got to confirm all this within 2 weeks, then is dosh-out time. Wish me luck..!

I'm getting off-topic here am I..? I hope the Cheryl (courseyrn) & the others don't mind...or else they'll have this guy do the stomping...! :460: