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> '95 960 Power Seat Issue, '95 960 power seat issue
wallacesgoddess
post Jul 24 2008, 11:34 AM
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Hi! :) Our front passenger power seat started acting funny the other day; we slid it all the way forward to make room for some crap on the floor of the back seat and when we tried to slide it back again, it would only move along the left seat rail; it won't budge along the right rail (this is causing the seat to want to torque counter-clockwise as the left moves and the right doesn't).

Listening carefully, I can hear what sounds like a whirring from both sides of the seat... but regardless, the right side is completely stuck. I've looked as closely as I can underneath and I don't see anything that could possibly be causing an obstruction and we're at a loss.

Any thoughts? :)
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danr960
post Jul 24 2008, 10:08 PM
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I posted this about some time in 2003 on the seat problem.

"I had this very problem. It turned out that there is one motor that has a cable coming off of each end, they in turn serve each side of the seat track. What happened on my seat was that the inner cable's end had rounded out on one side. The cables are round except for the last few inches where they are square. The square ends fit into the motor shaft and then to the gear on the track gear box. I think the seats were designed by NASA. The are very heavy and complicated. It seemed that the inner cable should have been longer than it was as just the last 1/8 inch was making it into the gear housing on the track. Here on the board most have repaired this by making the outer sheathing shorter to get more of the inner cable to seat into the gear housing. I didn't see any way of getting the metal end off the cable without destroying the metal end. So I left it alone, all I did was insert 1/4 inch piece of round steel in the inside of the motor shaft, the cable seems to go into the shaft way to far anyway and this made the other end too short and barely able to be inserted into the gear housing. By inserting the metal into the motor shaft it allowed the other end to travel further into the gear housing. I hope this makes sense, if not write with questions for clarification.

I also disconnected the negative battery terminal, and wrapped it in a plastic bag. I did not want to take any chances with the SRS system. I think there is a sensor under the seat."

DanR '94 964 338,000 miles (104,000 on the new engine)
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ggreen67
post Jul 24 2008, 10:22 PM
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danr960 is right. its the cable. got my ride in the shop right now t fix the very same issue. its a common problem. i have my mechanic fixing mine as you have to take the seat out to fix.
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jscottgriffiths
post Mar 29 2009, 04:23 PM
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Guys....great info, this helped me identify the problem with my 97 S90. I couldn't find any steel lying around like was mentioned in the fix above, but what I did was I took a few zip ties and tied the cable to the metal framing that supports the three motors under the seat....this causes the cable to press against the point in the gearing mechanism where it needs to be. Easy fix, cost me $3.00 for 100 zip ties, and I still have 96 of them left :-)
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dan964
post May 3 2009, 11:24 AM
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Ugh,9's are notorious for this problem. lol.

Fixed it on my 945 a few years back exactly the same way as stated above- put something in the receptacle so that the cable would go further in on the right side.

Experiencing the same issue with my 964 now. Designed by NASA? indeed!
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red7218
post Jul 5 2010, 04:44 PM
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yep mine too... careful air bag
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red7218
post Jul 5 2010, 04:46 PM
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yep mine too... careful air bag
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irbyjr
post Jul 29 2010, 02:54 PM
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QUOTE (danr960 @ Jul 24 2008, 11:08 PM)
I posted this about some time in 2003 on the seat problem.

"I had this very problem. It turned out that there is one motor that has a cable coming off of each end, they in turn serve each side of the seat track. What happened on my seat was that the inner cable's end had rounded out on one side. The cables are round except for the last few inches where they are square. The square ends fit into the motor shaft and then to the gear on the track gear box. I think the seats were designed by NASA. The are very heavy and complicated. It seemed that the inner cable should have been longer than it was as just the last 1/8 inch was making it into the gear housing on the track. Here on the board most have repaired this by making the outer sheathing shorter to get more of the inner cable to seat into the gear housing. I didn't see any way of getting the metal end off the cable without destroying the metal end. So I left it alone, all I did was insert 1/4 inch piece of round steel in the inside of the motor shaft, the cable seems to go into the shaft way to far anyway and this made the other end too short and barely able to be inserted into the gear housing. By inserting the metal into the motor shaft it allowed the other end to travel further into the gear housing. I hope this makes sense, if not write with questions for clarification.

I also disconnected the negative battery terminal, and wrapped it in a plastic bag. I did not want to take any chances with the SRS system. I think there is a sensor under the seat."

DanR '94 964 338,000 miles (104,000 on the new engine)



OK, a question or two---can the cable sheath be accessed for this modification (addng the 1/4" spacer or shortening the sheath) without removing the seat? Also, is it important for which battery terminal to disconnect??
Thanks a bunch,
Irby
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danr960
post Jul 29 2010, 03:46 PM
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QUOTE (irbyjr @ Jul 29 2010, 02:54 PM)
OK, a question or two---can the cable sheath be accessed for this modification (addng the 1/4" spacer or shortening the sheath) without removing the seat? Also, is it important for which battery terminal to disconnect??
Thanks a bunch,
Irby


I do not really know if one can do this while the seat is in the car, you could try and see if the seat will raise high enough. another way to address this problem is to shorten the cable sheath but still you need room to work and there may not be enough space to maneuver while still in the car.

When ever I do electrical work that requires removal of a battery cable, always undo the negative, that is always first when changing a battery too. If you do the positive then you run a great risk of shorting out something with the wrench you are using, but doing the negative post first removes that possibility when removing the positive.

DanR '94 964 353,000 miles (119,000 on the new engine)
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irbyjr
post Jul 29 2010, 08:44 PM
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QUOTE (danr960 @ Jul 29 2010, 04:46 PM)
I do not really know if one can do this while the seat is in the car, you could try and see if the seat will raise high enough. another way to address this problem is to shorten the cable sheath but still you need room to work and there may not be enough space to maneuver while still in the car.

When ever I do electrical work that requires removal of a battery cable, always undo the negative, that is always first when changing a battery too. If you do the positive then you run a great risk of shorting out something with the wrench you are using, but doing the negative post first removes that possibility when removing the positive.

DanR '94 964 353,000 miles (119,000 on the new engine)


Makes sense to me.
Thanks,'
Irbyjr
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Roy321
post Aug 26 2010, 09:32 PM
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Hello friends, attached is a document describing the fun I had fixing my S90 power seat.
Good luck.

Attached File(s)
Attached File  S90_power_seat_repair.pdf ( 328.38K ) Number of downloads: 187
 
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duckland23
post Jul 29 2011, 01:08 PM
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I Know this is a older post but I wanted to post about my experience On my seat repair as well .I didn't have to cut the plastic sheath like some of the people did to fix there's . I guess I got lucky but My seat is now working it was a bear to get out and in the hole wont line up at first , the only way to line them up is to push them really hard to the bolt holes . I called volvo a new cable is 9.50 us dollars , not very much for cost . I would guess that the old cable gets all stretched and you need to shorten it or replace it all together . I dont know how long its going to last but I hope its a long time . I also have to repair my seat heater on the drivers side as well its not working I think its the switch not working right . Its got some kind of sticky stuff all over it , I think soda pop spilled on it . It wont light or work in the winter time .
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duckland23
post Mar 29 2012, 04:38 PM
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I repaired My seat about one year ago . Now my seat is doing the same thing . I was going to buy a new cable from volvo , but I only had to adjust the cable that made the seat go forward on the motor . I had to remove the seat from the car . I may as well have to do the same thing again . But this time I know how to do it . I may try to shorten the cable sheet on it a 1/2 in to same me some money , or spend 20.00 from volvo for a new cable . also they dont stock it anymore , so I have to order it . Its the second or last motor under the seat that giving me the problems . If you push on the cable the seat will go forward , but thats a temp of a fix you need to replace the cable or shorten the plastic cable sheating 1/2 in . Oh the bolts can be a real bear to get back in there holes , you may have troble removing them . You can push the cable to move the seat foward to move it back and forth .
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