Hello all,

2001 S60 2.4T 76k on it.

Brake pedal travel seemed to be a bit further than several other volvo's I've driven (an S70, S40, 960, and the new wagon), so I replaced pads on the rear (they were low) and bled the system. This did not fix it. Any ideas?

Secondly, the car was in the shop about 9 or 10 months ago and needed the electronic throttle module to be cleaned because it was stalling. Then, the accelerator pedal needed to be replaced roughly 8 months ago after sending me an "engine system service urgent message".

Now, the car nearly stalled on me once, warm day, just a bit up the road from my home on a slight upward incline, and then a day later I get a "Engine system service required" and a check engine light. Two days after the message appeared it left, and now only the check engine light remains on. Is this a new issue or is the throttle module dirty again and causing complications? Opinions?

Also, when the vehicle is turned off, one of the fans that seems to be near the air filter continues to run for a few seconds(which I believe to be normal), however it is making a noise which can be best described as a rapid clicking. Any ideas here? Going into a reputable dealer (Lehman Volvo, York PA) next week, I'll keep all posted.

Thanks for any feedback or thoughts!

The Brake Problem I'm not sure about, Are all the Disks and pads ok? My rear pads and disk are worn and I have the same.

The other problem-Why they replaced the Accelerator Pedal is beyond me! Unless you have been particularly harsh on it I don't see why it would need replacing even though it works on the same principle as the faulty Throttle Module I haven't heard of problems with it. Cleaning the throttle is just a way of putting off the problem for a while, you are going to need the Electronic Throttle Module (ETM) changed which should fix all the problems with stalling. If your in the USA its free :) or if like me your in the UK or somewhere else its not :( It's about £300 at a dealer here or £180-220 at a private place.

With the fan noise its more than likely the climate control ambient temperature sensor. Under the radio on the climate panel theres a small vent and its benind that, just take it out and clean it, it will be clogged with dust. If you give the forum a search there's a few articles of how to remove the panel...it's tricky at best lol.

Good Luck!

Ahh thanks a lot..

The rear pads are brand new, rotors are in good shape, the front rotors may need to be replaced soon, but the front pads are still ok. I was thinking like power brake booster? Master cylinder?

Last time it was to the dealer they simply cleaned the ETM, I'll be sure to ask about replacing the ETM rather than cleaning it.

As far as the fan noise, it originates from the front left of the vehicle, underneath the hood, it seems to be coming from underneath the plastic box that holds the air cleaner, not in the dash. What does the sensor do/control?

Thanks jajrst

You are correct in thinking that the fan being on after the car is turned off as normal. After the car is turned off the fan can stay on to cool the car, and then the a/c can turn on to remove condensate from the inside hvac.

But as far as a clicking noise this is very odd. I would venture to guess that your fan is hitting up against a wire as it spins making the clicking noise. This happened on an old Mercedes of mine. Sometimes this just happens with age as the plastic pieces that hold the wires to the frame can brake and let them loose - my 01 S60 only has 48k miles and this was about to happen (but I went through and replaced all the zip ties and flex wrap in the engine). This can also happen if your car has been in a front fender-bender, where there might have been work done on the front part of the car.

Also, seeing that you have had work done on the ETM, it is very possible a technician might have accidentally loosed up the connection of a wire and now it is hitting the fan blade.

I'd check that first - it could potentially save you some serious $$ just to make sure all your wires, flex wrap, and zip ties are in good condition.

It cost me about $50 and 5 hours of my time to remove all the old cracking flex-wrap and zip ties and completely replace them on my engine. I used mostly 1/2" and 3/4" black flex wrap.

Good luck.

Ahh thanks a lot...

Unfortunately my car went into the shop today, I will update when I hear from the dealership. My hope is that they change out the ETM and discover something affecting the brake travel and the fan noise. I'd rather have to pay them to fix it and get all the issues cleared up rather than have them find nothing and still have issues.

Update:

Check engine light issue: fuel vent line had a hole in it creating a pressure difference.

Stalling: ETM, which was replaced, issue should be solved.

Brakes: Seem to be normal for the S60, just felt like a little more travel than usual to me.

Fan noise was inconclusive. Several other issues were a small hole in the headlamp lens that needed to be replaced to pass inspection (PA State) and an exaust hanger had rusted loose and needed to be replaced. There was also an issue with a tierod or torsion bar or something that stopped it from passing inspection. If this had failed I would have had steering problems.

Sounds pretty expensive. I'm just about at 76,000 miles and I have nowhere near any of those problems.

In the last two years, I've only had to have the lower tierod bushing replaced, and there was a corroded wire on my starter.

One of the tierod issues was a bushing. The total bill was roughly 1700 USD, half parts, half labor. I think I just got unlucky with this car, I hope all is better now.