Has any here removed the head on a 2.4l turbo on a s70 glt ? how much labor is involved? also what kind of money we talking to rebuild the head, gaskets ect.

I recently found out #2 cyl has no compression, did a wet test , still same thing. what type of manual is the best to have, the haynes and chiltons are to general. anything else you guys use. i have 134k on it . runs like champ other than the misfire. what usually happens on these heads? burnt valves, or sticking valves, any suggestions. thanks for your help

I'm in the process of tearing down a non-turbo 98 V70 that I got for $1.00.

So far I've had to:
-remove the airlines attached to the engine
-unhook electrical plugs to remove wires that were in the way of removal, luckily each plug is different and should only plug into its mate.
-unbolt the top motor mount
-remove the bracket it attaches to
-pulled spark plugs and fuel rail (try and keep the plugs attached to the distributor in the correct order for ease of re-assembly), if you go to the back left side of the engine there are a few screws holding the fuel line against the engine block, if you undo these you can move the entire fuel rail out of the way without unhooking it.
-pull the timing cover and both cams, you can leave the cps pickup attached to the cam, but you will have to unbolt the sensor before pulling off the timing cover. Make sure you put the valve caps in a plastic bag so you don't loose them they look like shiny metal cylinders with caps that cover the valves.

Now would be a good time to drain out a few quarts of coolant to get the coolant level down below the head, you might as well drain it all out if you think you had a head gasket leak anyway.

-unbolt the exhaust heat shield cover and remove it from the engine bay, throw away if desired, but you should probably keep it on a turbo car.
-unbolt the intake and exhaust manifolds. The exhaust manifold should have some play to be pushed away from the head thanks to the rubber exhaust hangers, the intake manifold should be removed.
-remove the head studs (throw them away you do not re-use them, you need to order new because they stretch under torquing)
-you may need a rubber mallet or a dead hit hammer, but remove the head from the engine using the dead hit to loosen it up its been on there for 130K+miles and would prefer to stay on.

More than likely your going to find a valve isn't sealing (bent or otherwise, but look at your piston rings and ring lands(it will be obvious if you've lost ring lands) while your in there.

This is a very cursory step by step, most everything on these volvos only goes in one place it was specifically designed for, so if your handy with cars this shouldn't be too difficult, after you calm down from the amount of vacuum hoses you had to deal with.

I'd also recommend getting a cam holding tool like ipd sells for peace of mind when re-assembling.

Like all my literally in the driveway under the tree mechanic work, this will probably take a couple of days for disassembly, replacement of parts and installation. DOHC engines are relatively simple to work on, and if you feel confident you can save yourself a couple grand in the process. It will cost me $500.00 to get mine running again and thats all in replacement valves and gaskets. Mechanic wanted over 2K.

Hope this helps even tho its not exactly what you needed.

On the guides, theres no exception for an actual shop manual, in liu of that I like the alldatadiy.com information. Has full engine tear downs and diagnostic steps.

Update:
After last nights work it should be noted that on the bottom of the intake manifold there is a bracket that attaches to the block and holds a fluid line. You need to either unbolt that bracket from the underside of the intake manifold or undo both the bolts at the bottom of the bracket. Otherwise the intake manifold will not come off.