I own a 1986 Volvo 240 with automatic transmission. Recently we have had an intermittent stall and start problem. The vehicle would stall while running and would re-start after about 10-15 minutes. We did the following:

1.Replaced the fuel filter
2.Replaced the Fuel Pump Relay
3.Replaced the fuses
4.Replaced the blade fuse and housing by the Battery
5.Repaired the wire housing junction box by the firewall
6.Replaced the belts
7.Removed the radio
8.Checked the vacuum hoses

After replacing the belts the car behaved for about three weeks but now that the temperature is about 80˚ F, the car won’t start. It will crank but won’t start. After the temperature cools off or about 3 hours then it will crank over.
Prior to replacing the belts we had an awful screech upon starting after stalling. No noise at this time but it is still misbehaving.

The Overdrive light comes on and stays on at times as well as flickers ocassionally.

the screech was prob poor engagement of the starter motor pinion in the ring gear. It would have had an hi pitched ringing noise at the end. you should at least service/recondition the starter motor. The alternator will be in similar condition, so recon that too. DIY isn't hard, and though you can't do everything yourself, you can help keep the car affordable. ask me if you want to know how to do the jobs. Does the motor smell of fuel when it stops? check fuel pressure, and which of the 2 fuel filters did you change:-in tank, or near L rear wheel? replace the other one too. Check hose between both fuel pumps-in tank to out of tank -known trouble spot. Expect to replace fuel regulator if it's old-perhaps original? CIS ones can get $$$.

OD failure is a common post, use search function to help you.

Thank you for the reply.

The replaced fuel filter is the one by the wheel well.

The screech went away after replacing the belts.

The fuel line is fine as well as the in-tank fuel pump.

No fuel smell but there had been prior to replacing the fuel filter.

This is a car that we really enjoy and would like to keep for a while.

Do you have aces to one of those domestic 'steam cleaner' thingys? It can be used to heat things safely without destroying them-thus you can localize a search for something thermally sensitive. Fuel pressure still needs checking, hot & cold, and then you need to check things that warm up/cool down slowly-like the crank angle sensor & the igniton sensor in the distributor. IE run motor til it stops, then see if it has spark-pull off a plug lead and stick something metal into it and crank the motor, It should be able to arc a good spark at least 6mm to the motor. If not, you know where to look. Careful, the HT 'bites' if it gets u, do NOT DIY if u have/need a pacemaker.

Hello again,

Today the temperature was close to a 100 but the car has started up and behaved like a champ. I will check the fuel presure.

Thanks again!

If it does this again, wiggle the battery terminals. Loosen them if needed before the re tighten. For some reason on these cars if they get nasty the car will turn over with spark but no fuel. Happend to my moms 88 wagon. She was late to work. I did the whole check through on everything. Checkd the fuel relay. Then looked in the manual and thought hmm probably the simplest thing will do. And it was to check the battery terminals. Sure enough i wiggled them and vroom she roard to life.

Just a thought-are any of you vacuum hoses old/hard/cracked? If they leak air into the motor they will completely ruin you starting mixtures and low speed mixtures, making for poor starting and frequent stalling when stopping. Check the concertina inlet hose (via removal only) for holes and cracks from age/wear. Any air drawn in which does NOT pass thru the MAF sensor is wrecking your startup mixture, except air in the large pipe from the pre-heat selector on the airfilter box (& the crankcase ventilation-normally minimal and allowed for). That will pass filtered air only when the intake temp is sufficiently hot, so the motor will need the leaner mixture then. I trust V to have designed that correctly.

Check your timing belt.

Battery terminals only need to be tight enough not to slip on the posts, not so tight they stretch until the ends meet. Then they won't ever tighten again & are useless. Nice big brass or lead ones are the best, the cheap tinny wrap arounds you now see on small cars are just nasty rubbish. You need a large contact area with thick cross sections of the terminal everywhere, or it won't work well or long. The starter cables are thick, why wouldn't the terminals be similar? Bean counters at work, I'm afraid. It's a cheap, shoddy practise-sell it quick, then let the owner sort it out when it goes wrong/pay workshop rates rates to fix it properly. If anyone wants me to pay a premium price, then I want to get something back that is tangibly better than the cheaper alternative & useful to me, or I'm just making them rich at my disadvantage. I object to that. I don't have spare $ I can give away for no return just because they want to live by plunder. They are not usually charities, or not for profit organizations, they are businesses, designed to make a profit. I object to any unnecessary contribution to that profit from me. I live on <$AUS300pw. My $10 for something means much more to me than someone else's $10 from an higher income, or it should. BTW I DO make regular and substantial charitable donations for no tangible return. Most businesses aren't charities as such tho'.